Snow plow fabrication

[Rustyiron]

Crossover is designed to protect the hydraulics, not the blade. So yea, trip springs are still required.

Crossover will work with a PAIR of DA cylinders. Just not a single

Won't it work plumbed in between each "end" of a single s/a cyl?

 

[Glrret]

Due to mechanical problems on the old plow truck that are beyond what I care to repair, I've decided use the old plow I have vs. fabricating a new one. This will make things a lot easier and will play into the dissension to go with a hinged plow vs. a solid mount. I've also read some of the other posts and I'm going to figure out a way to support the plow without the chain. I still want to allow the plow to free travel up and down a liitle but I also want the option for down pressure for things like back dragging. I have a couple ideas I'm mulling over, the weight of the plow is what is going to be a factor, its a really heavy bugger.....

 

[Glrret]

My next question is concerning the placement and angle of the SA cylinders, and that is. Is there any reason why I should not have my cylinders angled out were they connect to the mounting plate? on the current design and most all that I have seen where SA cylinders are used shows the cylinders a straight as in this illustration,


What I am considering is shortening the plow arms by about 1 foot, but to do that I would need to move the rear anchor point of the cylinders outward to compensate for the travel distance needed. I know I could just buy shorter cylinders but if a simple change in placement with save me a few bucks... why not.

 

[Ford850]

Due to mechanical problems on the old plow truck that are beyond what I care to repair, I've decided use the old plow I have vs. fabricating a new one. This will make things a lot easier and will play into the dissension to go with a hinged plow vs. a solid mount. I've also read some of the other posts and I'm going to figure out a way to support the plow without the chain. I still want to allow the plow to free travel up and down a liitle but I also want the option for down pressure for things like back dragging. I have a couple ideas I'm mulling over, the weight of the plow is what is going to be a factor, its a really heavy bugger.....

I have a chain that allows a lot of travel, and the plow is still heavy enough for any back dragging too. You might start with the full chain idea first, and then you can have more time to come up with a semi-solid link idea if needed. I know for mine, I am much better off with the full travel provided by the chain than I would be with partial float and solid down pressure.

 

[LD1]

Won't it work plumbed in between each "end" of a single s/a cyl?

A SA cylinder only has 1 "end"

A crossover will work between a PAIR of SA cylinders that are the same size.
A crossover will work between a PAIR of DA cylinders that are the same size.
A crossover will NOT work between the ports of a single DA cylinder.

When using a pair of DA cylinders, you are using the rod side of cylinder A and cap side of cylinder B for one direction, and the cap side of cylinder A and rod side of cylinder B for the other direction. The volumes are the SAME.

When using a single DA cylinder, you are using the cap side port for one direction and the rod side port for the other direction. The volumes are NOT equal.Thus a crossover valve wont work

 

[LD1]

My next question is concerning the placement and angle of the SA cylinders, and that is. Is there any reason why I should not have my cylinders angled out were they connect to the mounting plate? on the current design and most all that I have seen where SA cylinders are used shows the cylinders a straight as in this illustration,
View attachment 455156

What I am considering is shortening the plow arms by about 1 foot, but to do that I would need to move the rear anchor point of the cylinders outward to compensate for the travel distance needed. I know I could just buy shorter cylinders but if a simple change in placement with save me a few bucks... why not.

Yes you can change the mounting but you need to do it the exact same on both sides or it will bind

 

[ovrszd]

For sure Richard, but there needs to be a little "give" in the system. You're not in that beast of a road grader you run around in:laughing:

True that!!!!

 

[mike69440]

After one look see at the Deere, To be or not to be isn't the biggest issue I noticed, first thing I'd do is move that plow back 2 ft. so it's not sticking out there a mile, then if down pressure is needed swap the chain out for a piece of round/square stock. Then there shouldn't be any worry's of scratching the car, banging into the house, hitting the garage door, knocking down the clothes line, and tipping over the dog house.

Yes, move the plow as close to the tractors as you can considering the Hydraulics. (Use short cylinders) Leave the pivot wit some slop, and reinforce heavily the skid steer plate you are using to stiffen it up. it takes a beating.

Mine is welded solid. I use on gravel roads, but I hate plowing our neighbor's crappy excuse for a rad up to their riding arena. A decent gravel driveway is no problem once it freezes.

 

[Oldpath05]

My driveway was nice and smooth with two snow storms, now with the past couple warm days, it's all rough again, rocks sticking up.... This weekend before the next big blizzard, I'll try to fabricate something for plow shoes to keep the blade up, this banging banging and tripping the edge all the time takes the fun out of plowing snow. Anyone else make shoes for a plow, or does everybody have a hot top driveway.

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

I had some shoes made for the Curtis plow on my RTV. The ones that came with it were ridiculously small and sank into the driveway. The guys at work made them out of 1" plate. Probably 5" round and they put a nice 45* chamfer around the edge.

For a full size plow I would probably go with a 6" dia. If your not inclined to make them Tractor Supply has them for $20 a piece.