ATV Trailer build

[Oldpath05]

If that the self shielding flux core wire then that's one reason why your weld is kinda rough, I mostly use .030, 70s solid wire with shielding gas.
Looked at the DR blue print, like how the head boards comes out. A 200lb trailer is nothing for a full size ATV and if some day you make another trailer, make a tandem axle trailer like the one DR sells, they can weigh twice as much, but will pull 4-times easier, because the front wheel will lift up over a bump instead of one wheel lifting the whole load weight going over a stump bump or rock, Ok back to work your on a budget, have to keep the cost under the $800.00 DR version.

 

[handirifle]

Oh I can easily beat that cost. The sheet metal and paint are all I have left to purchase. Didn't get a chance to call the sheet metal guys today, had volunteer work in the AM and a funeral in the afternoon. They are probably all closed on Sat as well. I will try to check tomorrow.

On a REAL good note, my hubs arrived today, 3 days early, so I am hoping to get on those tomorrow. I will be jazzed to have a "rolling" chassis .

As for the welding, my little Campbell Hausfield only puts out 90 amps, on a good day, and the extra penetration with the flux wire has been helpful many times. I found out the hard way once that I was using too much gas (trying to weld outside, in the wind) and used up my whole tank. Someday I will refill it and try again. The cleanup is quite a chore with flux core for sure. It really does deserve another shot. Some of my crappy looking welds are because I cannot see the puddle at times, depending on where the ambient light is coming from. So it's only PARTLY the wires fault . At least the grinders make em look purty.

So far I am still under $200 invested in this. Part of that is the free wheels and tires. That would most likely ad at least another $200 if I had to buy new.

Tomorrow I will test out my hub to wheel theory and see how that goes. If that does not work, I have another fairly reasonable idea as well. This one came to me yesterday, but no need to explain it unless the direct bolt on idea does not work out.

 

[handirifle]

Forgot to answer all your points.

In reality, this will probably be the heaviest trailer I build, for an ATV anyway, and for me. If a friend wanted one that might be another story, but I doubt it. As for the doors on the DR, I looked real close and I like the connection. The bottom hinge pins slide out the same direction, so unlatching the top and sliding the gate to the side, removes it. I will copy that too. Sorry DR. What's the old saying about imitation and flattery?

If I build me another trailer (and I might) I will make a superlight one that I can take offroading with me. Been a couple deer I have taken that were a beast to drag for 200yds. That plus getting them full of crap in doing so.

You can bone them out here in CA but it makes the checkin so much less stressful when you have the whole carcass to bring. I figure I can use the front tires and rims. Those have hubs and spindles already and will be fine for a 200lb (most likely much less) deer.

 

[handirifle]

OK I have a question. Now that I have the spindles, I am thinking of placing them on the bottom of the struts I welded on, and aligning them using a string from a point up front, at the end of the tongue. I plan on matching the distance from tongue to end of spindle, and tongue to back of spindle. I THINK this should suffice, am I wrong?

Is there maybe a better way to accomplish this? I am also thinking I should somehow notch the "struts" as I call them, to have more welding surface. One more thing, I have some tubing that I haven't size checked yet, but I think the spindles will fit into, in case I need to extend them out a bit for tire clearance.

I have welded axles on before, but when they are all one piece it's easier. Suggestions appreciated.

 

[Jim Timber]

Drill holes if you can. I don't know what you have for equipment, but if you can put a shoulder on your stub it works really nice to align the axles and hold them while welding.

 

[handirifle]

Well I can't really do that, unfortunately. The strut isn't wide enough. It's 2" wide and the spindle is 1.25". I have some 1.75" tubing the spindle fits snug into but it would have to be butt welded to the bottom of the spindle. I can't drill and use JUST the spindle, because then it will not stick out far enough for the tire to clear the frame, so I have to extend it about 1" anyway. I have thought of using about 4-5" of the 1.75" tubing and trying to cut a recess in the bottom of the strut, and let the tubing extend out the inside of the strut and weld my axle braces onto that. I think that is about my only option at this point.

Man those are some nice welds.

 

[handirifle]

OK I got a bit more done today. First off, I weighed the frame. Turns out I guessed fairly close, 95lbs. The hubs, bearings and spindles show 18lbs shipped, for the pair, so I will go with that weight. The tires and wheels weigh 17lbs each. I sent off an email for a sheet metal quote for 16ga, but might end up going with 14 for the floor. I think it was 68lbs for a 4x8 sheet, so I will go with that number as well. So, we have 95+68+ 17+17+18, so that adds up to 215lbs. Pretty close to my goal. I will weigh the sheet metal pieces before putting them on, to see how accurate my guess was.

Also, I got my wheels mounted to my hubs. Here's a few shots to gander at.

This is the wheel sitting on the hub studs. You can see how much is exposed of the studs. I simply drew the half circle or so, that I used as a guide to cut out.

Here the holes are cut and lug nuts are installed, hand tight.

Here's the back of the hub, showing the centering.

I spun the wheel while eyeing it and cannot see any out of round movement. I am sure there is some, but I doubt it will ever be noticed by me.

 

[Jim Timber]

Thanks!

You don't want the spindle butt welded though. Ideally, the weld would hold a mechanical attachment together. So you'd fillet weld the stub into the tube which was also inserted into the strut and fillet welded. At least that's how I do it when I can.

 

[handirifle]

Yes that was what I intended to say. I lose some in the terms. The tube is too large to fit "inside" the strut, so it will have to be a half moon type of cut at the bottom. I plan on having bracing on the inside of the strut, that will come from the cross brace of the bed and angled out towards the tube that the spindle will be in. This I think will provide support from forward or backward movement, as well as to resist twisting of the axle or upward movement of the wheel.

I hope I explained it well, but I will take pictures as I go.

I also installed 2 zerk fittings into the pivot axle today. I need to pick up a piece of 2" square tubing and a 1 7/8" ball coupling. That will match up to my quad, and also my log splitter.

I am really getting anxious to run this thing around behind the quad. I was figuring today, I can haul 12ft lumber or log sections in this without interfering with the quad. That would be with front and rear doors removed, of course.

 

[handirifle]

The trailer tongue is 1 7/8" OD, and the ball connector will be for 2" OD tubing. Would the correct wall thickness be .065" for the 2" square tubing? I am figuring 2 -1 7/8" and splitting the difference. Comes out to .062 but I think .065 is closest I will get.