Rotary Cutter Rotary Cutters

[LD1]

Light duty-Medium duty-Heavy duty dont really make a difference in the tractors ability to run the cutter. Rather the width of the cutter and your HP are the determining factors.

So your dealer saying light 6' or medium 5' I do not agree with. Your tractor will handle a heavy 6' just the same as a light 6' cutter, as long as your 3PH can lift the cutter. Since your tractor is HEAVY, and has LOTS of rear lift capacity for its relative HP, this isnt of any concern IMO.

I have both a very heavy bushhog 306....6'....1100lb cutter, and a light duty kk 5' mower thats probably 500#. Run both behind my 29 PTO HP kubota. I use the heavy cutter when doing new jobs and venturing into the unknown, or cutting really thick brush or saplings. My jobs that get done 2-4 times a year, and just grass, I use the 5' KK as it has high lift blades, and higher blade speed that result in a cleaner cut....and its light enough I can take the FEL off and still steer.

For your tractor, I would want no less than 6', and as heavy as you can afford, as heavier is gonna last longer.

Even with my 29 PTO HP, and 6' cutter, I have yet to run out of power. Sure, in thick stuff I have to go slower, but have never even touched 1st or 2nd gear even in the thickest of stuff. And 3rd gear only in the worst of cases. Most of my mowing is done in 3rd-6th gear.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I think all brands have light, medium and heavy duty style of cutters and about the only difference other than price is thicker steel in the deck. The drive line components are the same (at least on the ones that I have researched) so you don't have to worry about paying for heavy duty in order to get heavy duty drive components.

That just isn't true! AND if it's true for Howse , then that's not a brand I'd want!

With a QUALITY rotary cutter, like Woods brand, as you go up the scale, all the steel in the deck and sides is thicker. ALSO you get a bigger stronger gear box and heavier duty PTO shaft and drive line parts.

My next cutter WILL be another Woods, medium duty! Their med. duty cutter has a 115hp rated gear box...

SR

 

[LD1]

Agree. True heavier duty cutters come with better drive line components. Stronger gearbox, heavier stump jumper, more massive blades, etc. As well as thicker decks and sides, heavier tailwheel assemblies, and heavier hitch components.

No comparison between a light duty anything, and a try heavy duty unit from bushhog, landpride, woods, rhino, etc

 

[kthompson]

If you are not able to find or use mower wide enough to cover the tire tracks see if you can get one that will extend past the my preference the right tire so you can cut close to fences or trees with at least one side. Maybe I am wrong but to me a 7 foot cutter would be too much for that tractor. The decks on those are rather huge to me. If you want a quick way to get idea of difference in the different brands just look at the weight of the cutter. Not the best way to buy but a good indicator. kt

 

[Xfaxman]

Did you see this one? Click this link: 72 Inch Xtreme Duty Brush Cutter for Tractors with up to 75 HP by Everything Attachments

 

[Sawyer Rob]

That may be a decent cutter ?, but it's far from extreme duty!

SR

 

[joefromga]

Why would the gearbox be higher rated for a heavy duty cutter if you only need a certain hp to turn it?

 

[aarolar]

That may be a decent cutter ?, but it's far from extreme duty!

SR

I was thinking the same thing.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Why would the gearbox be higher rated for a heavy duty cutter if you only need a certain hp to turn it?

Because they are made to take the torque/abuse of bigger engines and cut thicker/tougher materials...

SR

 

[Texasmark]

Light duty and medium duty have differences other than steel thickness. I wanted a 6' mower for my 6530 and the light duty was built with lighter weight materials and had a 45 hp gear box. My PTO is 57 and I have torn up a gearbox on a dual blade 8' mohawk because the tractor PTO hp was greater than the gearbox rating and in a tight, as usual the carefully maintained clutch didn't disengage fast enough when hitting a berm.

So I went with the same brand cutter just moved up to the med duty and got a stronger frame and 60 hp gearbox.

I just bought a new 5' to go with my new 2400 and I will say this: The new ones aren't built like the old ones and cost a whole lot more. It's real obvious that the new designs are doing all that they can to limit the amount of steel in the design. I'm using the one I purchased and a Bush Hog Brand at a local dealer as a comparison. If you are going to do a lot of mowing in heavy brush/timber you might look for a used name brand at least medium duty. Main problem I've experienced with any used mower is the lower shaft seal leaking on the gearbox. So that's what I look for when shopping used.

On 33 PTO hp and 86" wheel spacing, I think you met your match. 33 hp, less than my Ford 3000 will have a problem lifting and driving a 7'. You'd have to go to a dual setup with 2 3 ½ ft blades side by side with a main and 2 aux gearboxes....price just went up big time. But still it would be a concern for the 3 pt to lift it adequately to suit you.

Remember the lift rating on a 3pt is at the lift pins or 1' out. When you are talking about a mower you aren't talking about all that much dead weight per se, you have to add in the feet in the foot-pounds equation.

For a number, a 2500# lift spec (when new) say at the lift arms, figured out 10' is only 250# of lift capability and at that the engine has to be at PTO rpms to get it.

So here is the dilemma. You want a "heavy" duty mower that's 86" wide and you can't lift it, even if your 33 pto hp can drive it.......Think about it.