Another plow setup question

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

Looks like you have one option on this plow and that is to loosen the U bolts and slide the Draw Bar to the right 2". This should get the plow to follow the "pull line" and make it easier TO PLOW.

By the way the Video about the coultours being added. Those have a set procedure that was completely passed. Separate issue there.


Idaho2.

 

[Steave]

It looks like your tractor might need stabilizer bars for the 3pt hitch. This would hold your plow from moving to the left once you started plowing.

 

[Big Barn]

It looks like your tractor might need stabilizer bars for the 3pt hitch. This would hold your plow from moving to the left once you started plowing.

While this SOUNDS logical, stabilizers should never be used for plowing.

Terry

 

[ovrszd]

Yep, even with telescoping stabilizers they should be pinned in tbe "slot" position.

 

[DJ54]

Hopefully this will show what you wanted to see DJ54. According to the picture Idaho2 posted, it seems as if my spacing is good.

View attachment 461583

It is what I thought. You can get 2+" of side adjustment, by putting the loops the bolts holding the rim to the center dish, to the inside of the dish. Doing this will set the center line of the tractor and plow, that 2+" closer to the furrow wall.

You need to think of it in terms of setting the tractor to the plow, not so much the plow to the tractor. Once that rear wheel is set in there, THEN you can micro adjust with the cross beam, what ever it takes to clean cut that first furrow bottom.

If aligned right, top links should be centered with each other, and the back end tip of the first bottom share, should be at least inline, with the inside face of the right rear tire, sighting across the inside face. A bit more won't hurt. This will allow the plow to cut the furrow bottom clear off, and not having to ride the furrow wall too hard with the side of the tire.

Shouldn't be too hard to break the bolts loose holding the rims on. Looks like either you, or someone had them off to paint the wheels, according to the scratched paint on the rim,

 

[Mearntain]

Mearntain,

Looks like you have one option on this plow and that is to loosen the U bolts and slide the Draw Bar to the right 2". This should get the plow to follow the "pull line" and make it easier TO PLOW.

By the way the Video about the coultours being added. Those have a set procedure that was completely passed. Separate issue there.


Idaho2.

I'm gonna give that a shot and see what happens, hopefully in a couple days it'll dry out enough to test her. The only reason I posted that video was to show you the bar I was taking about running to the mast. Later after posting that, I completely forgot how I already had posted pictures earlier in the post and could've just pointed to that. Thanks again for all the help.

Just for future reference if I ever get a new tractor/plow combo down the road. Are those 2 measurements you gave me earlier always going to be the same?

 

[Mearntain]

It is what I thought. You can get 2+" of side adjustment, by putting the loops the bolts holding the rim to the center dish, to the inside of the dish. Doing this will set the center line of the tractor and plow, that 2+" closer to the furrow wall.

You need to think of it in terms of setting the tractor to the plow, not so much the plow to the tractor. Once that rear wheel is set in there, THEN you can micro adjust with the cross beam, what ever it takes to clean cut that first furrow bottom.

If aligned right, top links should be centered with each other, and the back end tip of the first bottom share, should be at least inline, with the inside face of the right rear tire, sighting across the inside face. A bit more won't hurt. This will allow the plow to cut the furrow bottom clear off, and not having to ride the furrow wall too hard with the side of the tire.

Shouldn't be too hard to break the bolts loose holding the rims on. Looks like either you, or someone had them off to paint the wheels, according to the scratched paint on the rim,

I've never had the wheels off since I've had the tractor, that would've been the previous owner. Do you think I really need to bring the wheel in further with the inside wall of the tire already being just 21 inches from the center line?

 

[DJ54]

Just my personal opinion, but I'd say yes. Unless you have some steep hillsides you go across, you'll hardly notice it. I have my 2000 set in like that, specifically for the 2 bottoms I've pulled with it in the past.

I'm using a different tractor, and a pretty unique plow to plow the garden with now, and don't use it for that now, but won't be setting the tire back out. No need to do that here.

That's 2" you'll gain not having to move the plow on the cross beam, and possibly easier to center the plow on the tractor for a more equal inline draft on the tractor.

Again, once that wheel is moved in, you can get your final adjustment with the cross beam.

 

[rbtjr]

Yep, even with telescoping stabilizers they should be pinned in tbe "slot" position.

Richard, I want to make sure I understand your comment above and the post prior to yours. I have telescoping stabilizers on my L3800 that I bought from Mark Hodge. Am I correct that when plowing with either a two-bottom plow or a one-bottom plow the stabilizers should not be used--i.e., I need to remove the pin that are inserted to keep the stabilizers at a particular length and in turn keep the lift arms at a particular width? I don't understand what you mean by the "slot position". Thanks.

 

[ovrszd]

Richard, I want to make sure I understand your comment above and the post prior to yours. I have telescoping stabilizers on my L3800 that I bought from Mark Hodge. Am I correct that when plowing with either a two-bottom plow or a one-bottom plow the stabilizers should not be used--i.e., I need to remove the pin that are inserted to keep the stabilizers at a particular length and in turn keep the lift arms at a particular width? I don't understand what you mean by the "slot position". Thanks.

If removing the pins, I'd want to manually swing the plow side to side and make sure it can't come in contact with the tractor tires.

Most telescoping links have a slotted position to put the pin so a limited swing is allowed. This is a horrible picture, but best I have. If you look closely you can see the pin holding the stabilizer at a certain length. Just behind or to the right of the pin you can see a slotted hole in the exterior sleeve?? That's where you want the pin if using a plow. This allows the 3pt to swing some but restricts it from swinging the attachment into the tractor tires. Maybe someone else has a better picture to post??