Another plow setup question

[DJ54]

I hate to beat a dead horse, but I do believe setting that right tire in, so the loops are to the inside of the wheel dish may possibly cure this. That will set the whole tractor, and plow two or more inches towards the furrow wall, and cut the first furrow clean at the bottom.

Not cutting that first furrow off cleanly, will produce a lot of side draft, and kick the plow sideways.

I had to do that on my Ford 2000, my IH 240, and last year with my Super C with a two way single bottom. Except with the Super C, I had to set both sides in. All pull like a dream now, with that being done.

I could be wrong, just sayin', I'd give it a try.

 

[Mearntain]

I do have three holes that I can choose from to put the right lift pin in. With the bent right arm, it was shorter than the left so I had to move that pin to the farthest forward hole to come close to having the beams straight in line with the tractor.

Now that I've replaced the lower lift arm, it's noticeably longer and at the same perpendicular distance as the left arm now. As a result, it looks like I'm going to have to move the pin back to the middle hole and it appears I'll be able to have no problem at all having the beams perfectly in line with the tractor. Before, the only time the beams would be straight in line was when it was pulled all the way to the left with the top link severely angled.

I had to run up the road so I didn't have time to finish hooking the plow up and setting it up on blocks after replacing the lift arm. When I get back, I definitely post back with results after I get the plows hooked up.

In regards to moving the tires in further, that's not much of an option for me right now as I don't have the equipment or tools to assist with doing that. Another reason is that if I move the tires in further, I will have to shorten the check chains more than they are now as to not hit the tires in the new location, and I then won't be able to lift the plows high enough to get out the furrow with the chains maxing out.

 

[Ford850]

Yeah, I'd start over on blocks and measure a couple things. With the plow sitting centered behind the tractor, the leading vertical edge of the shin should be approximately 14" from the inside of the right rear tire. That would mean with the tire riding against the edge of the furrow, the first shin would cut a 14" width.
They say if the tractor is pulling to one side or the other, then slide the cross shaft (with pins) in that same direction to correct.
Some of these plows don't have enough adjustment to match all tractors, so you can only make it do so much.

 

[Mearntain]

Sounds good. Should I start off with going back to that 12" measurement between the the right lift pin flange to the center of the mast?

 

[Ford850]

Sounds good. Should I start off with going back to that 12" measurement between the the right lift pin flange to the center of the mast?

I can't answer that because I've never seen the frame measurements used for plow setup. I'm not saying it isn't a better way, just that I'm not familiar with it.
After getting it to run level front to back, and left to right, then you want that first moldboard to cut 14". I'd scrub the crap out of the moldboards too to get them smooth, if they are collecting a layer of dirt. Sometimes the paint is rough, or there's enough rust to collect a layer of soil and that will really make it pull hard. If one moldboard has more on there than the other, it could throw off the tracking too.

 

[idaho2]

I would start there, and as Ford850 suggest block, level and then field fine tune. Just had a curious thought. After leveling do this just for the heck of it, measure the vertical height from the plow share lead tip point to the bottom of the beam. Are both points equal in vertical distance. Just wondering if the 2nd bottom point is sucking into the ground more than the first bottom?

idaho2

 

[Mearntain]

I went at it again this evening, and still am pulling to the left. I went over the ground 3 times before today, and today was the 4th but I ran in the opposite direction as those 3 times before. I'm hoping by now that all the ground has been turned over at one point or another. I still would like to get it figured out though for future use, plus I probably would like to plow one other area.

I replaced the lower lift arm as I said earlier, and man did that make a whole world of difference in my adjustments that were needed to be made. The right adjustment was at 2 1/8 and now it's at 3 1/8.

I started off with the right pin at 12 inches from the mast. I dropped the plows and instantly went all the way to the left after a couple feet. I went back up to the barn and then moved the draw bar all the way to the left to hopefully counteract it. It did help slightly, but still slamming all the way to the left and not cutting to the edge of the furrow.

I measured from the point of the share to the bottom of the beams and they're pretty much exactly at the same distance. It's hard to get an exact measurement there, but if anything maybe an 1/8 inches or so difference at most, but that could've been operator error.

 

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

Wow, I'm at a loss to what is causing this problem. The only thing would be plowing in new ground to see if that makes a difference. With fresh plowed ground there is no lateral resistance for the landside to slide against. Maybe someone has a manual that they could share. I see where Leinbach Implements state that "EA" Everything Attachments is their only on line dealer. You may need to call them and inquire if they have any suggestions to help in your issue. Keep us posted on this issue.

Idaho2

 

[TomNOh]

There is some good reading here. Check this link out. Plow Book by Tim Wagner | Photobucket

 

[Mearntain]

With both plows shares sitting perfectly flat on the ground on concrete, should my landslide be sitting completely flat on the ground as well, with the "walls" of the landslide perpendicular to the ground?

I really hope I didn't get sold a bad plow again. If I step on the rear of my landslide to make it sit flat on the ground, the rear plows share still sits flat on the ground and the front plow raises off the ground a few inches, but appears to remain parallel to the ground. I don't see any bent, twisted, or damaged beams anywhere, including the mounting brackets and supports for the land slide. All mounting brackets and supports attached to the landslide still has the factory black paint on it and it isn't chipping or flaking, seeming to validate no damage to them.

And thanks for the link Tom Oh, I'm checking it out now.