Another plow setup question

[Mearntain]

So I should set the chains to where the point of the plow is right at the edge of the last furrow then? Some reason I was under the impression you wanted the plow to cut an inch or so into the last furrow.

I'm hoping since I've ran over this ground twice with the new plow now and partially with the sprung plow before that, I'm hoping a combination of all those times cut all of the ground at one point. Im considering discing it and giving it one more shot with the chains stopping the plow just for good measures.

 

[Mearntain]

Just to clarify so you know what I mean, I'm not too familiar with all the names of all the plow parts yet. When I say the point, I'm talking about the point on the share on the right side of the plow, the edge of the share that the soil ejects from.

 

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

What your indicating is the "Wing of Share" which is the opposite end from the share point. The "wing of share" pointed edge needs to just barely cut the furrow wall as it turns over by the moldboard.

Check your email sent a private message.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

Yep. The point is the "leading" end. "Wing of Share" as idaho2 calls it is the trailing end.

If you want a proper result each share should plow it's appropriate length/width of soil. If the plow is too far to the right (passenger side (automotive) ) the leading share will not cut it's intended width, in your case, 14". If it's too far to the left (drivers side (automotive) ) the leading share will cut more than it's intended width. Both will leave an uneven field.

 

[Mearntain]

If you look closely in one of the pictures I posted earlier in the thread, you can see that my right bottom link isits slightly bent and twisted which is making it about 1 inch shorter in perpendicular distance from the axle to the ball on the end than the left bottom link.as a result of this (or so I think), the beams on the plow are not perfectly straight in line with the tractor when the top link is straight. I believe that replacing the right bottom link with one that is not bent, will allow the beams to be straight in line with the tractor when the top link is straight.

I just purchased a new one and am hoping this will help me track better. Am I still going to need to use check chains to stop the plow from pulling more than likely with the plow I have? Or should this hopefully make it track straight with the new bottom link on? I know it would be hard to say for sure, but just wondering what yalls thoughts are?

The reason I'm asking is because I'm running into issues when I shorten the chain to where I'm having trouble lifting the plow as high as I need to to get out the furrow. While lifting it earlier, I actually snapped the bolt holding the chain in half as the hydraulics wanted to keep lifting it further than the chain would allow.

 

[ovrszd]

The stabilizers should hang loose when plowing. Their only use is to prevent the plow from swinging into a tire when carrying it.

 

[idaho2]

Richard,

I agree the check chains should be free, but for some reason OP's plow keeps pulling to the left quite a lot. He and I are in communication and it was obvious that he had a twisted and bent Rt. lower arm. But this alone would not be the cause of the extreme Lt. pull. I have an idea of the cause but need to verify with OP.

idaho2

 

[ovrszd]

Richard,

I agree the check chains should be free, but for some reason OP's plow keeps pulling to the left quite a lot. He and I are in communication and it was obvious that he had a twisted and bent Rt. lower arm. But this alone would not be the cause of the extreme Lt. pull. I have an idea of the cause but need to verify with OP.

idaho2

Yeah, I don't think the bent arm would do it either. Although I understand his explanation of why he thought it might. Very curious to hear the end result of this.

Thanks for sticking with him to find resolution!!!

 

[Ford850]

Most plows have an adjustment that moves the pin or pins slightly forward or rearward. In his case, he would want the right pin to move forward, which would swing the tail of the plow to the left and correct his pulling problem. By the looks of that plow, it might not have this adjustment option. On the older Ford plows, by sliding/adjusting the main pin arm left or right also moved the pins fore and aft due to the curved slider arm. The "newer" 101 Ford plows had a separate lever to push or pull the right pin to swing that tail for a straight track.

 

[idaho2]

Ford850,

Unfortunately the OP's plow does not have this option. Knowing that what other options does he have. Have you looked at his "Flickr picture" attachment, post #37. Gives you a good idea of what is going on. I suggested he move the draw bar to the original location. Plow a few feet and check the level of the plow, with out lifting out of the ground. He may need to move the draw bar another 2" to the left. Plow 50' and see what it's doing. I wonder if the second bottom is sucking more than the first and causing the Left pull. His photo is causing me to lean to that observation just from the photo at this time.

idaho2

 

[DJ54]

I hate to beat a dead horse, but I do believe setting that right tire in, so the loops are to the inside of the wheel dish may possibly cure this. That will set the whole tractor, and plow two or more inches towards the furrow wall, and cut the first furrow clean at the bottom.

Not cutting that first furrow off cleanly, will produce a lot of side draft, and kick the plow sideways.

I had to do that on my Ford 2000, my IH 240, and last year with my Super C with a two way single bottom. Except with the Super C, I had to set both sides in. All pull like a dream now, with that being done.

I could be wrong, just sayin', I'd give it a try.

 

[Mearntain]

I do have three holes that I can choose from to put the right lift pin in. With the bent right arm, it was shorter than the left so I had to move that pin to the farthest forward hole to come close to having the beams straight in line with the tractor.

Now that I've replaced the lower lift arm, it's noticeably longer and at the same perpendicular distance as the left arm now. As a result, it looks like I'm going to have to move the pin back to the middle hole and it appears I'll be able to have no problem at all having the beams perfectly in line with the tractor. Before, the only time the beams would be straight in line was when it was pulled all the way to the left with the top link severely angled.

I had to run up the road so I didn't have time to finish hooking the plow up and setting it up on blocks after replacing the lift arm. When I get back, I definitely post back with results after I get the plows hooked up.

In regards to moving the tires in further, that's not much of an option for me right now as I don't have the equipment or tools to assist with doing that. Another reason is that if I move the tires in further, I will have to shorten the check chains more than they are now as to not hit the tires in the new location, and I then won't be able to lift the plows high enough to get out the furrow with the chains maxing out.

 

[Ford850]

Yeah, I'd start over on blocks and measure a couple things. With the plow sitting centered behind the tractor, the leading vertical edge of the shin should be approximately 14" from the inside of the right rear tire. That would mean with the tire riding against the edge of the furrow, the first shin would cut a 14" width.
They say if the tractor is pulling to one side or the other, then slide the cross shaft (with pins) in that same direction to correct.
Some of these plows don't have enough adjustment to match all tractors, so you can only make it do so much.

 

[Mearntain]

Sounds good. Should I start off with going back to that 12" measurement between the the right lift pin flange to the center of the mast?

 

[Ford850]

Sounds good. Should I start off with going back to that 12" measurement between the the right lift pin flange to the center of the mast?

I can't answer that because I've never seen the frame measurements used for plow setup. I'm not saying it isn't a better way, just that I'm not familiar with it.
After getting it to run level front to back, and left to right, then you want that first moldboard to cut 14". I'd scrub the crap out of the moldboards too to get them smooth, if they are collecting a layer of dirt. Sometimes the paint is rough, or there's enough rust to collect a layer of soil and that will really make it pull hard. If one moldboard has more on there than the other, it could throw off the tracking too.

 

[idaho2]

I would start there, and as Ford850 suggest block, level and then field fine tune. Just had a curious thought. After leveling do this just for the heck of it, measure the vertical height from the plow share lead tip point to the bottom of the beam. Are both points equal in vertical distance. Just wondering if the 2nd bottom point is sucking into the ground more than the first bottom?

idaho2

 

[Mearntain]

I went at it again this evening, and still am pulling to the left. I went over the ground 3 times before today, and today was the 4th but I ran in the opposite direction as those 3 times before. I'm hoping by now that all the ground has been turned over at one point or another. I still would like to get it figured out though for future use, plus I probably would like to plow one other area.

I replaced the lower lift arm as I said earlier, and man did that make a whole world of difference in my adjustments that were needed to be made. The right adjustment was at 2 1/8 and now it's at 3 1/8.

I started off with the right pin at 12 inches from the mast. I dropped the plows and instantly went all the way to the left after a couple feet. I went back up to the barn and then moved the draw bar all the way to the left to hopefully counteract it. It did help slightly, but still slamming all the way to the left and not cutting to the edge of the furrow.

I measured from the point of the share to the bottom of the beams and they're pretty much exactly at the same distance. It's hard to get an exact measurement there, but if anything maybe an 1/8 inches or so difference at most, but that could've been operator error.

 

[idaho2]

Mearntain,

Wow, I'm at a loss to what is causing this problem. The only thing would be plowing in new ground to see if that makes a difference. With fresh plowed ground there is no lateral resistance for the landside to slide against. Maybe someone has a manual that they could share. I see where Leinbach Implements state that "EA" Everything Attachments is their only on line dealer. You may need to call them and inquire if they have any suggestions to help in your issue. Keep us posted on this issue.

Idaho2

 

[TomNOh]

There is some good reading here. Check this link out. Plow Book by Tim Wagner | Photobucket

 

[Mearntain]

With both plows shares sitting perfectly flat on the ground on concrete, should my landslide be sitting completely flat on the ground as well, with the "walls" of the landslide perpendicular to the ground?

I really hope I didn't get sold a bad plow again. If I step on the rear of my landslide to make it sit flat on the ground, the rear plows share still sits flat on the ground and the front plow raises off the ground a few inches, but appears to remain parallel to the ground. I don't see any bent, twisted, or damaged beams anywhere, including the mounting brackets and supports for the land slide. All mounting brackets and supports attached to the landslide still has the factory black paint on it and it isn't chipping or flaking, seeming to validate no damage to them.

And thanks for the link Tom Oh, I'm checking it out now.