Thoughts on this grapple from a local dealer?

[FTG-05]

And to ask again:

Is this the correct 3 spool valve I should order for 3 remote rears?

3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

Thanks!

 

[Piston]

And to ask again:

Is this the correct 3 spool valve I should order for 3 remote rears?

3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

Thanks!

No, you have somewhere around 9.6gpm on your tractor (if I remember correctly) to your remotes, so you will want something with at least that much flow.

This is the valve I went with, which you can get in any configuration, and even at 12gpm rated, it still heats up real hot when I'm using the stump grinder (slow controlled continuous use of the valve).

4 SPOOL PRINCE SV SECTIONAL CONTROL VALVE OPEN CENTER W/POWER BEYOND

 

[LD1]

From Post #11"

"A diverter will only tie into an existing circuit. Usually your curl. Its electric, and you would either need a joystick with a button, or add a button to your current joystick. you are basically using your existing loader valve, but when pushing the button, it will divert fluid to the grapple instead of the curl cylinders. Thus the name...diverter. But whatever circuit you link it to, you will not be able to use that function at the same time as the grapple. So if you link it to your curl.....

Move stick left-right and your bucket curls and dumps. Push and hold button and move stick left and right and it opens and closes the grapple. But cannot do both at the same time, its one or the other."

That's why I didn't want to go the diverter route. Plus what Ted said in the first minute of this video: How To Series - 3rd Function Auxiliary Hydraulics for Tractor Loaders - YouTube

The only thing I seen Ted say is that he just doesnt prefer them.

I am going diverter because IMO and for my uses, being able to feather the grapple lid to control closing speed and force is more important then being able to curl and close at the same time. As others mentioned, lifting delicate things. I could see myself using the grapple to carry and move all sorts of things it wasnt designed for. Lifting/moving lumber that I dont want to crush, moving a bale of hay/straw and keep it intact, Clamping down on implement frame to load/unload it off the trailer, moving sticks of plastic culvert or rolls of tile, etc etc. I just dont think a electric 3rd function would serve me well. And a manual lever 3rd function and having to move my hand back and forth isnt desirable either. So thus my decision for diverter. I cannot think of any instances where I would need to operate both curl and lid at the same time. If I need to operate the curl after closign the lid a little, simple let off the trigger on the joystick. If I need to resume closing the lid after curl adjustment is made, simple squeeze trigger again.

And to ask again:

Is this the correct 3 spool valve I should order for 3 remote rears?

3 SPOOL 8 GPM PRINCE MB31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

Thanks!

No. Your pump flow is listed at 9.4gpm. This isnt a case where you are only flowing oil when using a remote on a limited use basis. With a valve plumbed in between the loader and 3PH, you will ALWAYS be trying to flow 9.4 GPM through that valve when at RPM. Can cause unwanted heat.

Prince's next 3-spool jumps to 30gpm.

I went with a low-cost chief valve @ 20gpm. the only 12gpm valves I could find that have at least 1 float option were sectional valves at about twice the cost.

Did you read through my thread on doing the rears on my MX? http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/367641-mx5100-3-remotes-under-500-a.html

I'd say within the next month I will be doing my diverter set-up. I already ordered the valve from baileys for $116
Sure grip (which is also owned by baileys) controller for $35 New Sure Grip Hydraulic Single Trigger Two Button Control Joystick Mod SG13M21 | eBay
Two coupling pairs for $32 at Napa

So so far I am up to $183 for my diverter. I will need some ~6-8' hoses to go to the couplers.....~$25ea A couple of short hoses to tie in the old curl circuit....$10ea And will re-use the existing hoses that connect to the valve to supply the diverter. And maybe $25-$30 worth of fittings (which I probably already have). So Now I am up to a mere $283 give or take, and only think else is fabbing a bracket to house the couplers....and coming up with a way to plug in/ unplug the joystick when removing the loader. So for about $300 and some shop time.....I'll have my front all set up.

Couldnt justify buying one of them "kits" for 50% more money and still having to buy all the necessary hoses and plumbing.

 

[FTG-05]

Enough. The 3rd function kit has been ordered and it's already on it's way.

That 3 spool "stackable" valve at SC: There are about a half dozen options and I have almost no clue how to pick each option. I got from your thread that one of the spools had a "float" option, got that. The rest just need to work a DA cylinder. Which option is that?

Thanks,

ETA: Or just get this one: 3 SPOOL 14 GPM PRINCE WVS31BBB5C1 DA VALVE

 

[Piston]

Option B, SV DA cylinder spring centered.
(SV=stack valve, DA=dual acting)

If you are planning on getting too and tilt, just be advised you will want both cylinders to have the float function. I went with all 4 spools as float and use them pretty regularly.

Edit: I thought you were referring to my valve which is what I posted for, but I think you were referring to LD1's

 

[LD1]

Option B, SV DA cylinder spring centered.
(SV=stack valve, DA=dual acting)

If you are planning on getting too and tilt, just be advised you will want both cylinders to have the float function. I went with all 4 spools as float and use them pretty regularly.

Edit: I thought you were referring to my valve which is what I posted for, but I think you were referring to LD1's

The valve I got was a monoblock valve. So limited options, and I listed the baileys number to exactaly what I got in my build thread. So I dont think he is talking about the valve I referenced.

 

[SPYDERLK]

I haven't got a grapple yet so I cannot comment on width.

I have narrow, 60", on the 7520. It is much more maneuverable around any obstruction than is the 6' bucket. ... If working in the open a wider grapple would sometimes be a slight advantage, but for me grappling is all about being able to deal with obstructions as easily as possible. Im pretty sure a 48" grapple of the same depth would even offer a net benefit to the 60".

 

[FTG-05]

Option B, SV DA cylinder spring centered.
(SV=stack valve, DA=dual acting)

If you are planning on getting too and tilt, just be advised you will want both cylinders to have the float function. I went with all 4 spools as float and use them pretty regularly.

Edit: I thought you were referring to my valve which is what I posted for, but I think you were referring to LD1's

Good to know!

I've read so many grapple/remote rear threads in the last couple of days, I'm not even sure which valve I'm talking about anymore. I thought LD used a SC Stack valve, but I'm reading his first post in his RR thread and there, first item on the list is the Bailey's valve part number. Sorry, can't recall who posted the stack valve the first time.

Looking at the Bailey's site for 3 spool directional valves, this is what it says for part # 220959:

3 4-pos. float 3-pos. spr. center 3-pos. spr. center 4w 4p / 4w 3p / 4w 3p tandem center 3625 220959 $185.00

So, will this work? CHIEF G Series: 1 GPM, SAE 1 Inlet/Outlet, 3 Spool, 3625 PSI, 15-3625 PSI Relief Setting, SAE 8 Work Ports, 22959

It only shows the first spool having a float position. Not sure what the rest of it means. Like I said, I should prolly take a Hydraulics 101 class...

 

[FTG-05]

And looking at this stack valve at SC, with the first two spools having float (option D) and the third spool having just spring centered, DA (option B), the price is $369.

SC stack 3 spool valve: 3 SPOOL PRINCE SV SECTIONAL CONTROL VALVE CLOSED CENTER NO RELIEF

Is having one more float valve worth almost $200 ($185 for the one float Bailey's valve vs. $369 for the two spool float valve)?

 

[FTG-05]

Last but not least:

Where do I find a remote rear ag connector mounting blocks for the rear of the tractor?

Here's a pic (stolen from LD's RR thread):