dragoneggs
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Sorry sir... just digging a little deeper into it... analysis wise. I will shut up. Happy Thanksgiving!
Broken drawbar... chances a 'pro' welder can fix it
- Thread starter Dadnatron
- Start date
- Views: 39705
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Threads like this are useful even if the OP just buys a new drawbar, and calls it done, as the ideas, suggestions, recommendation's, etc may stimulate others to attempt such a repair even if the OP should choose not to. I have found the following posts helpful, even if my first post was to the tune of 'I would just go weld it', having read on and followed this thread, I am better informed should the need ever arise.
ShieldArc, 'not a professional welder'? LOL... You have likely forgotten more about welding than I will ever know or comprehend . Having read your numerous posts on the subject, your input is very valuable.
Happy thanksgiving to all...
OP
Dadnatron
Veteran Member
I've looked at Everlast and I was thinking about one of their 3 in 1 units, such as the Everlast 251Si 250amp 110/220v or 211Si 200amp version. Right now, I don't have 220 service, but I will be building a shop over the next couple years, and I'd like to have the ability to use it now as well as maximally use it then.
What do you feel about 3 in 1 machines? For a 'farmer/do-it-yourselfer'? I suspect they wouldn't be great for a pro, and quite honestly, I'm not sure how much I'd use each mode of welding... as I said, I grew up with stick, not that we used it much. Just fixing broken farm equipment mostly. I've never used TiG or MiG, but I've read about their benefits in situations.
My 'thoughts' would be for equipment repair, but also, fabrication. I am always thinking of 'something I want' that doesn't exist in the form in which I'd like it to be. Right now, I have a couple of used implements that need to be altered for Cat2 Quick Hitch. It burns me to no end to have purchased this QH, and NOTHING I have tried to hookup, is compatible. I recognize I can always just buy a new piece which is QH compatible, but I don't need things that badly. I'd just like my current things to work better.
Shield Arc
Super Member
I'm not familiar with any of Everlast multi-process welders. I own a Lincoln multi-process welder, V350-Pro. I just love that welder.
Maybe think about buying Everlast's PowerArc 300. That welder has adjustable hot start, and arc force. Then shop around for a Used LN-25 wire feeder so you could run self shielded flux core wire. And buy a Tig rig for small, and thin material welding.
TIG Welding Torch Set WP-26V-25R 25-ft 2 Amp Air-Cooled w/Free Gloves | eBay
Maybe think about buying Everlast's PowerArc 300. That welder has adjustable hot start, and arc force. Then shop around for a Used LN-25 wire feeder so you could run self shielded flux core wire. And buy a Tig rig for small, and thin material welding.
TIG Welding Torch Set WP-26V-25R 25-ft 2 Amp Air-Cooled w/Free Gloves | eBay
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Egon
Epic Contributor
The draw bar may have been flexed during use and strain hardened it at the break point. On one piece there seems to be a hint of rust indicating that may have been the start point of the break.
I'd add some stiffness to the extended part of the drawbar.
Very nice pictures of the break.
I'd add some stiffness to the extended part of the drawbar.
Very nice pictures of the break.
Gary Fowler
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I have to think that this is a brittle fracture perhaps caused by constant flexing of the drawbar at this point so that it work hardened. Flexing doesn't have to physically bend the piece for it to harden the area.
I would try to remove about half an inch on each side of the break (take out the hole) then put a double V bevel on both pieces with a 37+or - degree bevel. Weld up using 7018 low hydrogen stick electrode by welding a pass on one side then flipping it to weld the other side. Finish out the sides with weld metal build up to make the piece back with square sides. Grind off the excess metal so it is not interfering with attachment.
I don't think drawbar material is anything special, just plain old A 36 bar stock so 7018 should be more than strong enough for the weld.
Leejohn
Elite Member
If the draw bar was hardened the pull hole wouldn't be egg shaped. Take a file to it then you well know.
ovrszd
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Isn't there another thread about this on TBN now?? Seems like I read it mentioned how the break occurred. Caused by an implement prying on the drawbar??
Did a search, here it is.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/372146-300-error-any-thoughts.html
Did a search, here it is.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/372146-300-error-any-thoughts.html
4570Man
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Can you cut off about 3/4 from the broken pieces so there's not a hole there to weaken it?
Sodo
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Dadnatron get the multiprocess machine. You said it many times in this thread. You have projects. You have needs, repairs, modifications that will make things more usable. And projects are piling up.
Don't set the eqpt bar too high. If you run up against the limits of a multiprocess welder then buy the next machine. By then you will have done so many repairs the multiprocess machine becomes free at that point. The multiprocess machine makes it more likely you will learn 3 types of welding, if that is interesting to you. It sure worked for me. The only complaint I have with mine (Miller MultiMatic 200) is itt doesn't have AC TIG. Which I never knew I needed, but now I know because I dove in.
Pros are not the right people to ask about multiprocess because they HAVE the separate machines, thus no NEEDs. Why would it be any other way? Keep in mind you're not a pro, their needs are not yours. You needs are NOW.
My sister-in-law wants me to advise her what cordless drill to buy. I can't advise her because anything she actually needs is a peice of junk and the only ones I can bring myself to recommend are ones I'd want for myself, and they too will just go to waste (unused) in her hands. Thus I can't advise at all; if its not to "overbuy". The forum is like that, overwhelming pressure to overbuy. Best to just get going.
If you look at the activity on this forum its the guys who HAVE projects who are doing/learning. Thats the way it is. Buy the dang thing; I wanna see your projects! Didn't Henry Ford say something notable re: failure to buy a tool after you identified the need costs twice as much as just buying it? He was a smart man, prob didn't overbuy though.
Don't set the eqpt bar too high. If you run up against the limits of a multiprocess welder then buy the next machine. By then you will have done so many repairs the multiprocess machine becomes free at that point. The multiprocess machine makes it more likely you will learn 3 types of welding, if that is interesting to you. It sure worked for me. The only complaint I have with mine (Miller MultiMatic 200) is itt doesn't have AC TIG. Which I never knew I needed, but now I know because I dove in.
Pros are not the right people to ask about multiprocess because they HAVE the separate machines, thus no NEEDs. Why would it be any other way? Keep in mind you're not a pro, their needs are not yours. You needs are NOW.
My sister-in-law wants me to advise her what cordless drill to buy. I can't advise her because anything she actually needs is a peice of junk and the only ones I can bring myself to recommend are ones I'd want for myself, and they too will just go to waste (unused) in her hands. Thus I can't advise at all; if its not to "overbuy". The forum is like that, overwhelming pressure to overbuy. Best to just get going.
If you look at the activity on this forum its the guys who HAVE projects who are doing/learning. Thats the way it is. Buy the dang thing; I wanna see your projects! Didn't Henry Ford say something notable re: failure to buy a tool after you identified the need costs twice as much as just buying it? He was a smart man, prob didn't overbuy though.