Upsized Hydraulic Clyinders for Loaders

[mike69440]

Re: Upsized Hydraulic Clyinders for Loaders, Photos posted to Let's see your Kubota.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...7622-lets-see-your-kubota-51.html#post4617070

I'm very happy with the balance of size and capability and strength of the L39 except.
it would be the perfect tractor but it just needs:
A CAB with heat and air conditioning & easy to remove side panels for nice weather.
About 65 HP.
11 foot hoe with about 15% more oomph all around with pilot control, hydraulic thumb.
CVT or 3X2 HST
Stronger front axle an stronger Power steering.
Larger tires.
10X16.5 Front tires
Carlisle Trac Chief XT Tire 1-16.5 1 Ply TL - Tire Only - Mills Fleet Farm
43-16X20 rears
43x16.-2 Extra Grip R4 TL
4 in 1 bucket with teeth.
Lots of extra remotes.
Enough LED Lights to light a ball park.
Nice infotament package.

 

[lhansman]

Hi Mike

It looks like you have increased the capability of your L39 quite nicely.

Regards,

Lauren

 

[mike69440]

Hi Mike

It looks like you have increased the capability of your L39 quite nicely.

Regards,

Lauren

I have not had to opportunity to even come come close to using the new strength of the L39. Other than curl force needed with heavy pallets, it never really was lacking. The regen cycle is still the same. In the woods I just tossed aside a near ton rock to get by, but when I went to back drag it back to where it was, I had trouble. Next summer when it dries out a bit, I'll go fetch it and put it along my perimeter road/trail as a nice "Sitten Spot".

 

[mike69440]

I hate Snow Plowing!: Upsized Hydraulic Clyinders for Loaders

I hate Snow Plowing!

After spending so much time effort and money rebuilding & upgrading my hydraulics and Loader, I'm out there freezing my butt off wearing out my tractor moving stuff around that will hopefully melt in the spring. What a waste.
Get 8"-12" and I've got 6 hours work to clean things up. I don't know How I managed without a commercial Plow on the loader. Using a bucket is terrible for moving snow.
I must plow more than a half acre, considering all the road, parking area, neighbors main driveway, paths to the animals and the horse paddock.
Tapped a 6 x 6 gate post and snapped it, Time for a post hole digger in the spring.

I expect to install a soft cab on My L39.
No heat, but at Breezy Ridge Farm, anything that breaks the wind and blowing snow helps.
Pictures and review to come.

 

[avc8130]

Mike,

Great work on that L39! It really makes me reminisce about the one I used to own. I felt like a conductor at a symphony running the GST during loader operations. Now I have an L45 with the HST and it's just not the same.

I'm trying to follow along with what your final configuration was to increase loader capacity, and see how it might be applicable to my L45. I've got the bigger front axle, so I guess the "weakest" point has been upgraded by Kubota. (at the sacrifice of turning radius)

It looked like your curl upgrade is now similar in capability to mine, but your lift upgrade might still be applicable to the L45?

I also need to figure out how to check hydraulic pressure and adjust it if necessary.

ac

 

[mike69440]

Mike,

Great work on that L39! It really makes me reminisce about the one I used to own. I felt like a conductor at a symphony running the GST during loader operations. Now I have an L45 with the HST and it's just not the same.

I'm trying to follow along with what your final configuration was to increase loader capacity, and see how it might be applicable to my L45. I've got the bigger front axle, so I guess the "weakest" point has been upgraded by Kubota. (at the sacrifice of turning radius)

It looked like your curl upgrade is now similar in capability to mine, but your lift upgrade might still be applicable to the L45?

I also need to figure out how to check hydraulic pressure and adjust it if necessary.

ac

The lift is easy to do with a little $$$ outlay. The L45/47 has the lift Clyinder reversed from the L39.

First off it is ok to run relief at 3000-3100 PSI, (2900 is OEM MAX) I have been doing that for last 1500 Hrs. I do have a cushion accumulator to absorb shock. Take a look in the Projects thread of some of the stuff I've done with an L39. The main reliefs are in front of the seat. The loader valve has its own reliefs Get a 5000 psi gauge with quick connects from surplus center.

To upgrade your lift clyinder 19%, i.e. 2618 Lbs at full height, not counting how much you cheat on the relief, just purchase original Kubota Quality 60mm Piston, Seals and Gland for an Old Style L39 Bucket Cylinders.
(See Messicks online part Catalog)

Use the existing Rod from your 55mm Cylinders, and have a hydraulic shop fabricate you a new 60 mm Tube body and Pin End. Expensive, but done correct. Make sure you paint it orange or black to match!
I'd load your tires and keep BH on the tractor if you upgrade lift capacity.

You could have them make you a complete new 2-1/2" Cylinder instead, (SEARCH Thread on super L45,) but that would be 33% increase in lift, i.e. 2933 Lbs at full height, near two tons off the ground, but that is scary on a little L45! It is not an M59/62.
The loader on these are not exactly weak to start with. Just look at the loader lift curve in your manual.

 

[avc8130]

The lift is easy to do with a little $$$ outlay. The L45/47 has the lift Clyinder reversed from the L39.

First off it is ok to run relief at 3000-3100 PSI, (2900 is OEM MAX) I have been doing that for last 1500 Hrs. I do have a cushion accumulator to absorb shock. Take a look in the Projects thread of some of the stuff I've done with an L39.

To upgrade your lift clyinder 19%, i.e. 2618 Lbs at full height, not counting how much you cheat on the relief, just purchase original Kubota Quality 60mm Piston, Seals and Gland for an Old Style L39 Bucket Cylinders.
(See Messicks online part Catalog)

Use the existing Rod from your 55mm Cylinders, and have a hydraulic shop fabricate you a new 60 mm Tube body and Pin End. Expensive, but done correct. Make sure you paint it orange or black to match!
I'd load your tires and keep BH on the tractor if you upgrade lift capacity.

You could have them make you a complete new 2-1/2" Cylinder instead, (SEARCH Thread on super L45,) but that would be 33% increase in lift, i.e. 2933 Lbs at full height, near two tons off the ground, but that is scary on a little L45!
The loader on these are not exactly weak to start with. Just look at the loader lift curve in your manual.

What is the easiest way to check the hydraulic pressure setting? T into the backhoe supply? Could I just stick a gauge in my front hydraulic quick connect that I have diverted from my curl? (BTW diverting the curl SUCKS with regen, I need to switch it to the lift).

I assume the workshop manual shows how to adjust the pressure relief.

I have my tires loaded and just about always have the backhoe on. It's the best counterweight I own and I need the weight all year round as my number 1 use for the loader is moving around pallets of firewood.

So you're talking ~$120 for each seal kit, ~$120 for each piston: ~$480 in Kubota parts plus the cost of a new tube body.

I'm NEVER worried about max lift @ max height. I'm mostly looking to get max ability to move a pallet between trailer/truck height and the ground. That's where any bump in capacity would be most useful.

ac

 

[mike69440]

The Backhoe has separate reliefs. The Swing pump relief is next to impossible to get at without removing the floor under the seat.

I never read my service manual how to check pressure, but I'd either t Into the Lift or curl circuit, crank the reliefs on the loader way in and check your main pump pressure, if low adjust you main pump to a reading slightly above what you want to run, then start backing off the loader reliefs to just where you see a drop in pressure. Or you could first tap into the Aux port on the Loader to check the main pump output, then adjust the lift and cur accordingly with a tap at each connection.
As I remember the way I did it is I screwed in the reliefs, then afterwards put a gage to see where I was at (+3,300 Psi!). I then put the Gage on the Curl and backed off the main Pump, then I backed off the curl reliefs. Then with the lift, I put the gage in that circuit, backed of the relief on the loader till I saw a drop, the just turned it in again just a few degrees.
I my opinion, it is better to have the relief at the circuit in question, rather than the main pump, so the fluid circulates around a longer loop for cooling/dearation

I suppose this falls into the category, ("don't try this at home") I should ask the service manager at the dealership how he would check pressures. He actually knows something about equipment.

 

[mike69440]

How have I managed to put +50 hours on my L39 since mid November?

How have I managed to put +50 hours on my L39 since mid November?

The 50 hour service light came on today plowing snow. I serviced the tractor once had the hydraulics squared away on or about 11-20-16, so I kind of shocked I'd put on 50 hours?
I ignore that light, and just reset, as 100 hour oil changes with Rotella T6 is expensive enough.

I really have not used the tractor much at all.
This is all I can recall doing.

Pulled a small stump and cleaned up some brush.

Took out a moderate size tree (About 14? and cleaning and cutting up the mess.

Turned the poop pile twice.

Moved a few items for the winter before putting on the plow.

Yanked my stepson out of a snow bank twice.

Loaded a slaughter steer on the back of a truck.

Snow plowing. Two decent sized storms, but the other stuff was like 3-5 inches, just small storms as we really have not had an especially snowy winter till yesterday.

So is my hour meter running fast? I thought I was spending more time on TBN than seat time.