Appropriate Ways to Use Bucket Hooks?

[VaBeekeeper]

Hi folks,

Sold on the utility of bucket hooks, I got some and had them installed: a 5/8" grab hook on each side with a slip hook in the middle. Now I'm wondering exactly how (and how not) to use them, to maximize efficiency and safety.

I know that grab hooks are typically used with chain for securing, lifting and dragging, while the slip hook is typically used with straps. And I know that with grab hooks, the chain link should rest inside the hook, rather than being skewered on the tip. But I'd appreciate further advice on what works best to secure the load, whether the bottom of the bucket should be parallel to the ground or curled, which jobs are within the scope of my tractor/loader (Kubota L3901 HST/LA525 loader) and which are a prelude to disaster, that sort of thing.

Since chains and straps are used every day in industry, surely there must be a ton of literature on how to safely and efficiently use them; but my Internet searches so far haven't been very successful. Even some photos would be greatly appreciated...

 

[jeff9366]

I suggest you next install at 3/8" clevis mount chain grab hook on your rear/center drawbar.

It is tempting to thrust the FEL into underbrush, noose a log to the bucket grab hook, then back out, which can bend the FEL.

If you have a clevis mount chain grab hook on your rear/center drawbar you will be likely to use it, correctly, for pulling heavy loads.


I have 5/16" chain grab hooks on my tractor.

I keep two lengths of Grade 70, 5/16" chain on my tractor, one length 8' the second length 12'

One end of each chain bears a Grade 70, Forestry/Choke Hook, the other end of each a Grade 70 chain Grab Hook.

The Forestry Hook is used to noose logs. The Grab Hooks are used to link the two chain together when necessary, hook to link, not hook to hook. Linking two chains is a rare event. I use the 8' length more than the 12' length.

15/16" chain is much lighter than 3/8" chain. Your L3901 cannot possibly break Grade 70, 5/16" chain in good condition. 5/16" chain is completely secure in 3/8" chain Grab Hooks. Lowe's and Home Depot are inexpensive sources for Grade 70, 5/16" chain. They sell a 20' length, with four grab hooks, in a bag in the Transport subsection of Hardware. Have them cut the chain in 8'/12' lengths in the store. Tough to cut at home.

LINK TO FORESTRY HOOK: Ken's Bolt on Grab Hooks <<Accessories>>=

LINK TO CENTER DRAWBAR: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/owning-operating/376755-rear-center-tractor-drawbar-use.html

 

[square1]

Heavy work should be equally balanced between hooks to avoid twisting / tweaking the loader / loader frame from greater torque or weight being concentrated on one side.

 

[jeff9366]

When unloading a pallet (bucket full of concrete bags, pavers, etc.) from a pickup truck bed or a delivery truck, have a maximum counterweight loaded on the Three Point Hitch. Usually at least 75% of the anticipated FEL load, 80% better.

Lift the load just an inch or two without moving the tractor.

Have an assistant carefully drive the delivery vehicle out from under the load.

WITHOUT MOVING THE TRACTOR lower the FEL load to 2" above the ground.

Proceed slowly.



Field Cultivator weight, less pallet, 275 pounds.

ETA Cultipacker mounted on Three Point Hitch as FEL counterbalance, 700 pounds.

 

[JRobyn]

You can easily cut even heavy chain with a cutoff wheel in your angle grinder.

p.s. Use a good full-face shield.

 

[FatTire]

jeff9366 Is the reason you put the hitch pin in from the bottom of the draw bar just to make it easier to insert the clip? Or anything else?

 

[Oldoak]

I do the opposite. I always put a hitch pin in from the top. If a sapling or brush happens to snag the clip and pull it out, the pin won't drop out. Extremely important when pulling a wheeled implement or hay wagon up hill. Not so much when just skidding logs, accept for finding the lost pin.

 

[jeff9366]

jeff9366 Is the reason you put the hitch pin in from the bottom of the draw bar just to make it easier to insert the clip? Or anything else?

I believe the clip is better protected from being pulled out when positioned above.

I think tomorrow I will replace the hairpin clip with a small bolt and ny-lock nut, or cotter pin, for greater security.

 

[RjCorazza]

If you're thinking about how to safely use the hooks for lifting you are way ahead of the game. For lifting with chain, I generally roll the bucket enough to capture the hook properly as well as clear the cutting edge of the bucket. Applying the load equally on the loader arms will minimize the risk of damage, and is good practice in general.

For lifting things I don't want to scratch up with chains, I use short axle straps on the load clipped onto the chain going to the loader.

 

[jeff9366]

You can easily cut even heavy chain with a cutoff wheel in your angle grinder.

I do not have an angle grinder. Does the OP have an angle grinder?

Lowe's or Home Depot will cut the chain at no charge if requested.

 

[fatboycowen]

I couldn't survive without an angle grinder. Go down to Harbor freight and get a cheap 4.5 inch one, and a pack of 1/16 cut off wheels. Very cheap and extremely useful. Just make sure to use safety stuff. A cutoff wheel got me down to the bone one time.

 

[bdog]

Hi folks,

Sold on the utility of bucket hooks, I got some and had them installed: a 5/8" grab hook on each side with a slip hook in the middle. Now I'm wondering exactly how (and how not) to use them, to maximize efficiency and safety.

I know that grab hooks are typically used with chain for securing, lifting and dragging, while the slip hook is typically used with straps. And I know that with grab hooks, the chain link should rest inside the hook, rather than being skewered on the tip. But I'd appreciate further advice on what works best to secure the load, whether the bottom of the bucket should be parallel to the ground or curled, which jobs are within the scope of my tractor/loader (Kubota L3901 HST/LA525 loader) and which are a prelude to disaster, that sort of thing.

Since chains and straps are used every day in industry, surely there must be a ton of literature on how to safely and efficiently use them; but my Internet searches so far haven't been very successful. Even some photos would be greatly appreciated...

With hooks on your bucket you need to be careful when tilting the bucket as to not dump out the chain. You want the open end of the hook pointed up. I had to be particularly mindful of this when I had hooks welded on my backhoe bucket.

 

[hslogger]

Heavy work should be equally balanced between hooks to avoid twisting / tweaking the loader / loader frame from greater torque or weight being concentrated on one side.

Square1 is right on. It is tempting to go into some corner or such and pull fence posts with the corner of the bucket. Bad Idea.
best to make pull from your center hook on a heavy nasty pull. If it is a light pull you can get away with it, but you might find yourself a leeeetle bit airborne on the opposite side rear tire.

 

[bdog]

For sure on the middle. I really only use end hooks if I am using both at he same time

 

[k0ua]

I believe the clip is better protected from being pulled out when positioned above.

I think tomorrow I will replace the hairpin clip with a small bolt and ny-lock nut, or cotter pin, for greater security.

That is my thinking also.. Sticks and vines cant get to the pin to snag it out. I have had internal arguments with myself about the stick the pin in from the top and gravity will hold it there and my current thinking of if the pin cannot be snagged out because the brush cannot get to it, the pin will never fall out. The small bolt and nylock net doesn't seem like a bad idea either.

 

[k0ua]

For sure on the middle. I really only use end hooks if I am using both at he same time

Even if you don't have a center hook, you can put a short chain across two end hooks and then take your pull chain and hook it in the center of the short chain, this will distribute the load.

 

[Henro]

I have a slip hook in the middle and grab hooks on the sides.

What I do is try to pull/lift from the center. I pass my chain through the slip hook and into one of the grab hooks. Granted this puts a little side pull on the grab hook, but almost nothing as the chain is doing a 90 degree turn around the slip hook.

Been doing it this way for years. No issues and works very well.

There may be times when I use both grab hooks plus the chain to lift something. All depends on what one needs to do.

I think you did it right by putting a slip hook in the middle and grab hooks on the sides. I would not change my set up, which is exactly what you have.

Bill

 

[plowhog]

I'm fairly new at this, but I have a hook on each side of the bucket and one in the middle. I was told to stop using the middle hook, as it could much more easily deform the bucket. So now I attach a short section of chain to both side hooks, then hook in the center of that to the load. Overkill?

 

[k0ua]

I'm fairly new at this, but I have a hook on each side of the bucket and one in the middle. I was told to stop using the middle hook, as it could much more easily deform the bucket. So now I attach a short section of chain to both side hooks, then hook in the center of that to the load. Overkill?

I mentioned the short chain between hooks method as a method of equalizing a load to both sides of the bucket to prevent "torquing" your FEL arms by attempting a hard pull or heavy lift from one hook only. If you grab hook into the center of the short chain you apply load to both sides of the bucket and both FEL arms. Sure there is some side load to the hooks on the ends but the way I weld them they ain't gonna break off. With a single hook in the center welded to your upper sheet metal of the bucket, it "may" just might possibly bend a U in the top of the bucket. It it is reinforced it wont'. You always have to use common sense in any rigging of loads and decide what is safe, what is over or under engineered. Sometimes we learn by making mistakes. We are all inclined to not make mistakes, but a mistake that is learned by opening your wallet to make it right, in a mistake not easily forgotten.

Many loaders relief valve would max out before a center hook would bend the bucket, especially if it was reinforced with a "chair" going down to the rest of the bucket or a vertical shim under the top lip. One way to find out.

 

[RichM752]

I buy my chain/lashing gear here:

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