Replacing the forward reverse shuttle in a montana 3040 and clutch

[spokane 1]

Your tranny farmtrac 300 is spot on with the Montana 3040. exact same. South Korea. same supplier of parts..same tractor...this guy was OK to deal with.
heres the gear box parts and explosion http://www.partsforfarmtrac.com/files/FTS280300360.pdf

study the figure 10-3 gearbox.....items 7 and 11 pin together this is your shiftier....the ball on item 7seats interacts with item 18 on the lower shift shaft.
study the figure 10-9 gearbox i see item 20 is the only nut on the end of a shaft ???


Free Parts Manual for Farmtrac 280, Farmtrac 300 & Farmtrac 360

 

[bones1]

It must be #20 42mm x1.5. That's the largest I see anywhere.

 

[spokane 1]

Now I know......bottom center shaft nut is the tension nut for your F-R gear set. apparently this nut came lose messing up your couplet and its c-spring detentes
this nut is used to push the gear set backwards toward the rear transmission....each assembly varies by thousands of a inch and by how much permatex is installed between the 2 transmissions.

mechanics put a light torque on this nut (after the shiftier is able to function fully) this irons out the differences in gasket goo.......the shifting bell slide backwards and stays tight if the nut is properly torqued....and then the nuts collar is dented with a nail set to hold it tight on the shaft......apparently the mechanics forgot to use a nail set on the collar.

 

[spokane 1]

It must be #20 42mm x1.5. That's the largest I see anywhere.

yes and be careful this nut hardly takes any torque.....im suggesting that this nut receives a wrench after marriage of the front and back transmission's.. the wrench is then turned lightly to seat the bearing cup shaft that is #21 and #33 number 33 seats into 21 is just forward of that. the torque on nut #20 is very light usually one finger tug on the wrench is all it receives.
the torque is limited here because a bearing is involved. you do not want to mash the bearing sideways.....all the nut is designed to do is slip the forward shaft back just enough to lightly touch the spud shaft b and iron out differences in gasket goo..between the cases.
i would say the torque would be 10 inch pounds. 10 inch pounds can be developed with one finger on the wrench ((this is all that is required slightly over finger tight)))
this may be the reason it backed off and appears visually loose.


usually people have to order items 43 and 23.....both are stripped out when reverse goes out.
42 is the overshift couplet sleeve <this is usually damaged by grinding gears, when this goes out completly the operator will have to get physical .. literally hold the shiftier with force to get reverse.
23 is the reverse gear this is hardly damaged but still needs replaced the shoulders are rounded.
i also recommend items 40 the shift syncros be replaced too.

 

[bones1]

Wow, this is great information and I can't thank you enough for it but I will. Showing the part numbers in the diagrams really helps too. I may have some time tomorrow to split the engine from the transmission and then make some headway I suppose. Again this would be very difficult without your guidance.Thank You sir.

 

[spokane 1]

Wow, this is great information and I can't thank you enough for it but I will. Showing the part numbers in the diagrams really helps too. I may have some time tomorrow to split the engine from the transmission and then make some headway I suppose. Again this would be very difficult without your guidance.Thank You sir.

don't forget to use your camera......photo the dis-assembly 6 ways to Sunday. use tape and label everything. use separate part buckets to store stuff.. look at every screw even on the fenders compare length mark and store......compare threads fine thread course mark and store.
Heres the problem with Korean made tractors (((it takes 2 months to get your parts)) most mechanics memory's only last 1 month at best.
so photo.....label.......and buy me beer later LOL........!!!

go get em......and don't forget you need 2 rolling floor jacks and 2 jack stands to split tractors without messing crap up. the tilting tranny jack is the next step....next week I assume.

 

[bones1]

Not too bad parts wise so far. We'll see. We can do better than beer.

 

[bones1]

Getting slowly closer. Will try to separate the transmission from the transaxle Friday and see what happens.
I've got real floor jacks and a tranny jack for when I get serious about this.

 

[bones1]

Got the transmission out today and have a few pics. I will need Spokane's wisdom before it's time to go back together.

I can't remove the motorcycle pic for some reason.

 

[bones1]

I have received all my trans parts from ITP in New York, man they are quick and will attempt to read this strange $75.00 downloaded service manual.