Gathering Materials for a Homemade Snow Cab for my John Deere X300

stugpanzer · Aug 25, 2017

I am gathering all the parts for a snow cab. I designed some parts to print on my 3D printer so I can use 3/4" EMT Conduit. My plan is to make the top out of 3/4 plywood which will create it's own structure (no need to strengthen as it's rigid enough). I want to use Lexan for the windows with minimal other material (plywood and such) as I want good visibility.

I bought a switch box to control the lights (inside and out) that I will have: Amazon.com: LAMPHUS SWBX42 LED Backlit Switch Box [4x 25A ON/OFF Rocker Switches] [2x Momentary Switches] [Adjustable Swivel Bracket] - Perfect for Police, Firefighter, or Construction Vehicles: Automotive

A set of LED Work Lights: Amazon.com: SUCOOL 2pcs one pack 4 inch square 48w led work light off road Flood lights truck lights 4x4 off road tractor jeep work lights fog lamp For Jeep Cabin/Boat/SUV/Truck/Car/ATV/automative/ 1-3V: Automotive

A low profile and programmable amber beacon: Amazon.com: BLP2L9P AMBER YELLOW 12-3V DC UNDERCOVER LOW PROFILE LED EMERGENCY WARNING SAFETY BEACON: Automotive

Interior (camper) light: Amazon.com: 12V Led RV Ceiling Dome Light RV Interior Lighting for Trailer Camper with Switch, Single Dome 28LM: Automotive

Slow Moving Vehicle sign for the rear.

Again, as part of this build I designed parts to print so I can use 3/4" EMT Conduit for the frame: EMT (Electrical Metallic Tubing) Conduit 3/4" Fittings by stugpanzer - Thingiverse

There are photos of the parts that I have printed so far at the previous link (at Thingiverse).

I will share as I proceed with the build but I will admit it will probably be slow as I design this as I go.

Any input is always greatly appreciated!

airbiscuit · Aug 26, 2017

I have the same work lights you are using and they are BRIGHT and broad. I think your 3D printed connectors are great. Are you ready to take it to Shark Tank? Keep us updated with pics.

BTW, my daughter used to teach at NIU. Good corn down there.

davedj1 · Aug 27, 2017

That's pretty neat. Maybe you could do some half pieces for laying on the conduit to support the metal skin at mid points or more?

stugpanzer · Aug 27, 2017

airbiscuit said:
I have the same work lights you are using and they are BRIGHT and broad. I think your 3D printed connectors are great. Are you ready to take it to Shark Tank? Keep us updated with pics.

BTW, my daughter used to teach at NIU. Good corn down there.

Glad to hear about the lights!

Shark Tank....I should have thought of that before published on Thingiverse! I do like to share though for those that want to print and/or make improvements.

I am 20 miles from NIU! yes, our corn is always quite good in this region...also very black soil!

Thanks for the compliment! I will try to do some work and do updates as I progress......

stugpanzer · Aug 27, 2017

davedj1 said:
That's pretty neat. Maybe you could do some half pieces for laying on the conduit to support the metal skin at mid points or more?

Good idea. I did the dual couplers to use as hinges. I like your idea...I might just do that. Thanks for the input!

fatjay · Aug 29, 2017

Low profile light + high hight = low visibility. I picked up a 10 pack of LED lights and a wig-wag flasher module. I have 3 on the front/back, and 2 on each side, that way you don't have to be above the roof to see it.

stugpanzer · Sep 6, 2017

fatjay said:
Low profile light + high hight = low visibility. I picked up a 10 pack of LED lights and a wig-wag flasher module. I have 3 on the front/back, and 2 on each side, that way you don't have to be above the roof to see it.

Great tip! I will keep that in mind when I get the lights on. I thought I might add some yellow (front) and red (rear) flashing lights, similar to car hazards.....

stugpanzer · Sep 6, 2017

I worked on the plywood top today (pics to follow in a day or so). I used my router to round the top edges and a palm sander to just smooth it out a bit. I plan on using Fiberglass Resin without the actual glass to paint onto the wood and especially the edges to seal the wood then I will paint it.

Egon · Sep 7, 2017

Go with a heated snowmobile suit and full helmet, heated boots & gloves. Toasty warm. Add a good light on the helmet and where ever you look will be lit up.

chim · Sep 7, 2017

Here's a source for fairly inexpensive steel fittings. They have them for 3/4" EMT to 1-7/8" OD pipe. The eye bolts don't appeal to me but they could be replaced with HHMS:

Canopy Fittings and Portable Shelter Connectors

o2batsea · Sep 7, 2017

stugpanzer said:
I worked on the plywood top today (pics to follow in a day or so). I used my router to round the top edges and a palm sander to just smooth it out a bit. I plan on using Fiberglass Resin without the actual glass to paint onto the wood and especially the edges to seal the wood then I will paint it.

I recommend epoxy resin. Gives far better results on bare wood. Your first few coats thin with 50% xylene. That will soak deep into the wood. Allow a full day between coats. After you get a couple coats then hit it with 60 paper. Next put a single layer of cloth. Lay it on dry. Push all the wrinkles out and leave it draped over the edge. Pour straight epoxy resin on and use a plastic scraper (like for bondo) to push it down into the cloth evenly. After a while trim the draped excess when the resin is leather hard and not tacky. Next day after it is fully hard, hit it with 120 paper. With a roller, add another couple coats to completely fill the cloth and bring up the surface. Final sand and paint with 2part epoxy primer followed by your topcoat.

You can also make a lighter weight top by bending up a perimeter frame and a couple arced ribs. The ends of your perimeter should be the same arc as the ribs. Use the textured 1/8 thick fiberglass panel from lowes or Home Depot as your cover (the cheesy stuff they line bathrooms with). Pop rivet the stuff every 4 or so inches to your frame. Trim with shears so you leave an inch or so drip edge. Light, strong and cheeeeeeep.

stugpanzer · Sep 7, 2017

Egon said:
Go with a heated snowmobile suit and full helmet, heated boots & gloves. Toasty warm. Add a good light on the helmet and where ever you look will be lit up.

Now this is funny! I have many reasons for wanting to tackle this project an dno real good reasons for 'needing' it!

stugpanzer · Sep 7, 2017

chim said:
Here's a source for fairly inexpensive steel fittings. They have them for 3/4" EMT to 1-7/8" OD pipe. The eye bolts don't appeal to me but they could be replaced with HHMS:

Canopy Fittings and Portable Shelter Connectors

I have seen these types of connectors. I could make some as well with 1" conduit but then what would I use my 3d printer for? LOL

stugpanzer · Sep 7, 2017

o2batsea said:
I recommend epoxy resin. Gives far better results on bare wood. Your first few coats thin with 50% xylene. That will soak deep into the wood. Allow a full day between coats. After you get a couple coats then hit it with 60 paper. Next put a single layer of cloth. Lay it on dry. Push all the wrinkles out and leave it draped over the edge. Pour straight epoxy resin on and use a plastic scraper (like for bondo) to push it down into the cloth evenly. After a while trim the draped excess when the resin is leather hard and not tacky. Next day after it is fully hard, hit it with 120 paper. With a roller, add another couple coats to completely fill the cloth and bring up the surface. Final sand and paint with 2part epoxy primer followed by your topcoat.

You can also make a lighter weight top by bending up a perimeter frame and a couple arced ribs. The ends of your perimeter should be the same arc as the ribs. Use the textured 1/8 thick fiberglass panel from lowes or Home Depot as your cover (the cheesy stuff they line bathrooms with). Pop rivet the stuff every 4 or so inches to your frame. Trim with shears so you leave an inch or so drip edge. Light, strong and cheeeeeeep.

I opted for the Fiberglass Resin. i don't intend on making this perfect...just water proof or at least water resistant. I will be painting the top as well.

stugpanzer · Sep 7, 2017

So I measured and cut a 3/4 piece of plywood to the desired size for my snow cab roof.

I used my router to round one edge which will be the top:

I put some wax paper down onto the work surface under the plywood:

I applied the resin on the plywood top and sides:

Next steps will be to do the underside and then I want to really get the edges with one more coat. Once I am done with the resin I will paint it probably with Rustolemm Enamel paint.

I am also scoping out the frame of the tractor to determine what/where my attach points will be for the cab.

More to come.....

fatjay · Sep 8, 2017

If you're going to make the roof wood, you're going to be top heavy, no matter how well you secure it.

Here's my plywood cab, around 6:05 I do a walk-around off it: IMG 16 - YouTube

It's top heavy. It sways. This is why I made my new cab out of sheet aluminum. Not to expensive, very light, and very sturdy.

stugpanzer · Sep 8, 2017

fatjay said:
If you're going to make the roof wood, you're going to be top heavy, no matter how well you secure it.

Here's my plywood cab, around 6:05 I do a walk-around off it: IMG 16 - YouTube

It's top heavy. It sways. This is why I made my new cab out of sheet aluminum. Not to expensive, very light, and very sturdy.

Hmmmm, I will have to consider this. Thank you!

fatjay · Sep 8, 2017

When ever I run over a lump of snow or curb when in that tractor, the whole thing sways. It's secure, but still, it definitely moves.

Almost forgot, if you go to remove it, it's going to be VERY HEAVY!