New L4760 first impressions

[Fallon]

Fallon,
I added an Agrital cab to my tractor. It is all glass and looking at it, it is really indistinguishable from a factory unit. Under the plastic roof is a solid steel sub-roof. Likely to meet FROPS requirements. My cab weighs 900 lbs. I do "feel" the difference when working latterly on a grade.

Not sure of differences w/ factory cab weight, presume similar to meet safety codes. Much of the weight is north of rear fender height.

The rear remote issue surprises me, in that I thought my top link cylinder was undersized at two inch. My draw down in usually about one hr. Since I have less than 300 operating hrs, it never occurred to me the factory valve was the culprit. Certainly worthwhile to read forum posts.

My rear track is 74 inches with 17.5 R4. Agree going wider not compatible with existing implements. Currently track wider than my 6 ft bucket, a pain at times.

My tale of woe is at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=375146. Not including the recent trip to the dealer to fix/replace valves that either didn't help or made things worse. Nit sure if the thread mentions I finally got my FitRite cylinders in finally... Worth the wait & fit perfectly.

The poor quality Grand rear remotes are a pretty poorly kept secret if you poke around much. According to MtnViewRanch at FitRite, they use to be as good as the loader valves a while back, but went to **** in recent years. No clue on the first part, but I conclusively agree on the 2nd part of that.
TractorData.com Kubota L4 tractor information
Weight:3737 to 4134 pounds

So we are looking at a 400lbs difference. I'm assuming that's between cab & no cab. Not sure on the differences between HST+ & GST or how they would factor in. Part of that extra weight is going to be glass, about a quarter of which is below the fenders.

I don't doubt your cab is heavy, but the OEM ones aren't that heavy. And from what I feel the OEM cab doesn't seem to raise the center of gravity much or generally decrease off-center stability.

 

[fishpick]

Since I started this thread as a first impression thread - I'm going to continue along that "impression" process and be happy I didn't put remotes on the rear.

Today was the first time I have actually used the L4760 for work - as in snow removal. We got "just enough" yesterday, maybe 6", to justify playing with the new tractor.

I started the morning by plugging in the block heater - mostly to see if it was true that waiting a few hours then starting would have the tractor temp gauge moving in just a few minutes when it's 25F in the barn... it sure did! When I went to start it - the glow plug symbol in the display was lit for just a second or so - and immediately upon starting the temp needle was at the bottom of the range in the gauge - not buried below anything measurable. Block heater seems like it was a solid $75 spent... This has made my project of getting a wifi signal to the barn a higher priority so I can always plug in the block heater when I leave - BUT turn it on remotely with a wifi switch Then I only have to go out to the barn on cold snowy days to start an already nearly warm tractor.

Speaking of nearly warm - as I have mentioned I don't have the front blower yet - so I did have to go in reverse... but reverse in a heated cab that was warmed up after about 4 minutes and HOT after 10... that's just luxury!

The mirrors almost work for going backwards - until they get covered with fine snow from the blower. Without a rear remote, the chute is manual crank adjustment - so I adjusted to blow "mostly" with the wind... not too bad as the back window opens and closes easily and the crank on the blower is right there. The windows never slams or flies open - easy to manage it. Good design on that big rear window.

I did turn on the defoggers / defroster - the coils in the rear and side glass - and it turns snow on a 25F day with 15MPH winds into water almost as fast as it hits them. The rear wiper was a good investment - clears the water off... the front wiper clears darn near the entire front sheet of window glass - super impressive. The front melts all the snow by virtue of 2 of the directionals up in the cab ceiling keeping the glass warm. And the heat output in general is so much you can "afford" to heat glass that's getting constantly cooled - and still be in just a shirt.

When I put the tractor back in the barn there were mounds of ice on the rear fenders from snow melting off the windows then refreezing when it dripped off.

Seeing as the manual tells you to vary things a bit in terms of RPM for the first 50 hours - and this was all PTO work - that's a small challenge... but I did raise and lower the RPMs as I was working and that's all smooth. The actual PTO speed in the display is kinda cool. I don't know really what good it is - because in the end you either run an implement at it's rated speed or at the speed you want it to perform at... but I guess if you learn "my tiller likes exactly 423" - you could dial it right in... I guess.

Overall - there's nothing to complain about first time out doing work. I stayed warm - I stayed dry... visibility is terrific. My butt isn't cold. The 4WD works (as expected). I have a part of the driveway I go off to swing the rear around to blow back - and just like my old tractor you need 4WD to keep the rears from spinning and it's simple to engage and run with.

I absolutely can not imagine what it will be like when you can clear snow going forward AND be warm AND be dry tho... This was almost good enough to cancel the front blower order... I said almost... but twisting your neck is still twisting your neck - no matter HOW climate controlled the twisting is

 

[Fallon]

I started the morning by plugging in the block heater - mostly to see if it was true that waiting a few hours then starting would have the tractor temp gauge moving in just a few minutes when it's 25F in the barn... it sure did! When I went to start it - the glow plug symbol in the display was lit for just a second or so - and immediately upon starting the temp needle was at the bottom of the range in the gauge - not buried below anything measurable. Block heater seems like it was a solid $75 spent... This has made my project of getting a wifi signal to the barn a higher priority so I can always plug in the block heater when I leave - BUT turn it on remotely with a wifi switch Then I only have to go out to the barn on cold snowy days to start an already nearly warm tractor.

...

Overall - there's nothing to complain about first time out doing work. I stayed warm - I stayed dry... visibility is terrific. My butt isn't cold.

I believe the Grands have a grid heater rather than gliw plugs actually. Think hairdryer element inside the intake.

Amusingly enough after clearing snow once last year my but was the only thing that was cold. More specifically the tramp stamp area. The crack between the bottom & back of the seat was not near a heater vent & right up next to the back window... First world problems... I fixed it with a $25 heated seat cover from Amazon.

Speaking of which I have a Zwave controlled outlet & am planning on the same remote warmup setup. Planning on putting the wall wart (came with wall wart & cigarette lighter adapter) for my heated seat on the same outlet. Trying to find a small space heater for the cab too that will stay under the 15@ rating or that remote switch. Can just jump right into a toasty warm cab with a toasty warm engine right away to go fight snow...

 

[fishpick]

It’s definitely a plug in the block that heats up.
I have the base seat (don’t know which one you have) but my buttal region was nice and warm as the cab warmed up.
Now you have me thinking about the space heater too tho... dang it!

 

[majorwager]

Some posts get sidetracked from the OP initial intent, just a fact of forum posting, So attempting to remain on point, I use a small pelonis ceramic heater in the cab when starting the tractor. I never plug in the block heater, heater core in ceiling begins to produce heat after 8 minutes or so. I did slide a full sheet of .019 aluminum in front of radiator screen. I cover the screen entirely, to reduce the air flow through radiator. Find this speeds increased water temp. Even with the screen covered, the temp gauge remains in the lower 25% reading, even if ext. temps reach 50F. While the engine is warming, the Pelonis conditions the cab to a toasty level. Not going to mess w/ remote activation. Cab warms up quickly. I purchased a overlay seat/back 12V heater, results are disappointing, luke warm, not efficient as my vehicle. So I took an old heating pad, set to high, rest it on the seat. When I am ready to exit the building, disconnect 120V pad and pelonis , the seat is super heated. When I connected my cab heater hoses to water pump and thermostat housing, I noticed the water circulation rate was a very low volume at idle. So after warming for a few minutes, I increase idle speed till ready to leave the building. My cab heat is not really efficient at less than 1500 RPM. I use a snow pusher, and the float position on the FEL valve. At higher speeds the loader arms & valve jerk when float is selected. Engaging float at idle, much smoother. So I throttle between 1599 and idle depending upon snow load and the distance snow is being pushed. I have an exterior cabin air filter which I also cover in the winter. I have two ceiling return air, or in-cabin recirculating vents to eliminated outside air blowing across the heater core, This also made significant improvement in cabin temp. I am building a 3 point HYD Power Unit which produces 32 GPM at 2500 RPM but for now it will power a FEL mounted finish mower. My blower is too narrow for the Kubota, 66", better suited to the ford, but open station ford, I end up wearing much of the blown snow. Thought about FEL snow blower, woodmax 84 inch, which power unit would support, but snow pusher is working rather well. There is no ticking clock, when I am moving snow, I'm done when the snow is removed from staging and driveway surfaces. By the way, my glow plugs are NOT automatic, and it is very rare I need them to start engine. Short crank, its' running..

 

[majorwager]

Fishpick.
Please discuss your experience with emission regeneration, when you reach that point. There is a variation of opinion on this subject, interested in your perspective.

 

[fishpick]

Can do when I get to the first regen. Been keeping the RPMs up as best I can to keep the temp up - to keep the particulates biting off best I can. It hit 5% the other day and the dropped back to 4% as I ran it prett good.

My takeaway is mostly - don’t idle.

 

[mljenkins]

Can do when I get to the first regen. Been keeping the RPMs up as best I can to keep the temp up - to keep the particulates biting off best I can. It hit 5% the other day and the dropped back to 4% as I ran it prett good.

My takeaway is mostly - don’t idle.

I idle a lot, old habits die hard. I think I hit regen at 22 hours on my L6060HSTC. No complaints, just increased the throttle when the throttle up light came on and went about my business. I’ll be curious what you think as well. I for one didn’t think it was as big of a deal as most folks I had spoken to made it out to be. I assume the newer tractors are more fool proof.

Matt

 

[JimP]

Congrats Fishpick, sounds like your liking your 4760.

I also have old habits. I tend to idle equipment and not shut down unless the equipment won't move for 30 minutes or more. Much of my tractor use is moving stuff with the loader at low speeds and engine running at 1800 to 2000 rpm. Maybe thats why my regens are only 16 to 20 hours apart. That said, my regens have also been a non-event. PM meter hits 100%, throttle up to 2000 rpm if I'm not there, keep working and 20 minutes later the meter reads 0%. I have to relearn and run the tractor more like a skid steer. Warmup, throttle up to 2300 to 2500 rpm and leave it there. It just sounds like the engine is screaming at that speed. Jim

 

[fishpick]

Now as a guy who has not had a regen yet - this is just opinion but...

I kinda read folks posts about the horrors and terrors of regen with a bit of scepticism. Now that I have the tractor and and read how many "levels" of warnings and beeps and stuff you get when the tractor needs to do a regen and you haven't - before there's an issue that requires service - I'm of the opinion that your posts are about what I expect... light flashes - up the throttle - do stuff... light goes off... keep doing stuff.

I will absolutely post up an update when I have my first event

Unfortunately it's not snowing and it's still winter... so - the tractor is a bit more parked and not doing things that I would like... I will probably go for yet another ride around the field today making pointless ruts... just because

 

[fishpick]

I believe the Grands have a grid heater rather than gliw plugs actually. Think hairdryer element inside the intake...

@Fallon - I'm going to blame my phone for how it formats text on the screen for COMPLETELY missing your comment's point...

I thought you were talking about the block heater... and hence my response about the block heater.. Which is a most certainly a plug in the block

As to your ACTUAL comment about the Grand L's and glow plugs - I have not a clue the tractor is so new to me... I just know the manual talks about the "glow plug" symbol on the panel... EXCEPT - to your point - the low resolution digital symbol looks less like a glow plug coil and more like a grid heater...

I dunno - and sorry for seeming like I was a rude pr!ck... clearly sometimes I no read so well, I guess

 

[fishpick]

Yesterday we were expecting a "big snow storm" so I started the morning by plugging in the block heater... which I then unplugged around 2 as the storm was "ending" and we had around 4"... Definitely not enough to blow.
This morning I got up and the lake effect snow machine had apparently been left running all night and we had almost 9" of fluffy white on the ground. This caused 2 things to happen:

1. Made me mad I had not gotten the remote WiFI switch set up finished to turn on the block heater in the barn from the house
2. Made me realize how happy I was to have a tractor with a cab

I headed out and had to WAIT for the tractor to idle up to operating temps and for the cab to get warm... almost 8 minutes! Then I cleared the driveway with ease. More observations with the new machine (which now has about 5 hours on it total):

• This tractor is rated at 47HP, my old one was rated at 45HP - this tractor feels like it's a HECK of a lot more robust in the HP department than the old one... It never seems to bog in any way. In M + rabbit gear - I can back up so fast the snow volume is more than the 75" blower can throw (i.e. its spilling around the sides and is a mountain being pushed in front of it) and the tractor NEVER acts like there's anything going on back there...
• I have said it before - and I'll say it again - the turning radius on this thing is absurd - it makes the tractor behave like it's 1/2 the size. I love it.
• It's fast. M + rabbit - blowing in reverse - done in like 45 minutes - with a job that used to take nearly an hour and a half... I can't imagine how much faster when I finally get the front mounted blower!!!

I will also admit my first major error with the tractor... I blew the 1/2 mile drive and the loop in front of the house and the walkway from the loop to the house... and it wasn't until I was done and parking the tractor back in the barn that I realized the error I had made... Having never had a cab before - it's easy how the novice could make this mistake... I didn't bring a coffee with me to sip on from the comfort of the heated cab while doing the work
My cup holder went unused!

 

[majorwager]

Fishpick,
Will you be selling the existing snowblower when the new model is delivered?

Curious, where did fishpick nickname originate?

And actually, you did NOT make a mistake, Blowing snow in reverse requires concentration, you must be aware of both tractor ends simultaneously. Coffee, a distraction, would have likely gone to waste. Background music another story.

 

[fishpick]

Fishpick,
Will you be selling the existing snowblower when the new model is delivered?

Curious, where did fishpick nickname originate?

The rear blower is technically "not mine" now - as it was part of the trade to the dealer with the TC45DA... but - since Kubota can't make me my blower yet - I have this "on loan" from the dealer until mine is "made"...

username origin... years ago while scuba diving with friends in Cozumel I fell asleep in a hammock and started dreaming... In my dream these other divers that we had seen on the reef all week with the stupid little acrylic sticks that had been picking and poking at the reef with them were in the dream... and in the dream all these little rods, or "picks" started falling out of their vests underwaters and destroying the reef... so - I yelled "FISHPICK!" as I awoke from the dream and flailed about in the hammock and fell out... because in the dream I yelled that and tried to catch them falling...

The nickname stuck... not that exciting, really

 

[mljenkins]

I will also admit my first major error with the tractor... I blew the 1/2 mile drive and the loop in front of the house and the walkway from the loop to the house... and it wasn't until I was done and parking the tractor back in the barn that I realized the error I had made... Having never had a cab before - it's easy how the novice could make this mistake... I didn't bring a coffee with me to sip on from the comfort of the heated cab while doing the work
My cup holder went unused!

If you find a cup that sits in that ridiculously large cup holder let me know, hah! Too bad they didn’t include a coffee/tea maker in the cab huh? I’ve am recovering from the flu this week so I haven’t gotten to be outside, and we haven’t had the snow to justify ignoring orders to rest.

In lieu of your remote switch, just get a horse or two and clean their stalls or feed them while the tractor warms up. That’s my solution

On a serious note, does the block heater help that much? I figured you’d have to let the hydro fluid warm up anyway before using.

Matt

 

[Fallon]

If you find a cup that sits in that ridiculously large cup holder let me know, hah! Too bad they didn’t include a coffee/tea maker in the cab huh? I’ve am recovering from the flu this week so I haven’t gotten to be outside, and we haven’t had the snow to justify ignoring orders to rest.

In lieu of your remote switch, just get a horse or two and clean their stalls or feed them while the tractor warms up. That’s my solution

On a serious note, does the block heater help that much? I figured you’d have to let the hydro fluid warm up anyway before using.

Matt

I've only used my block heater a few times on my L4060. The longest start has been maybe over 15 seconds in some cold weather. Is under 7 seconds in warm weather. It was maybe 10 seconds when I used my block heater in the last snow. So it does start a little faster at least but not by an order of magnitude.

 

[hawkeye08]

The cab doesn't add that much up high. I'm guessing 300lbs, probably a fair bit less vs ROPS.

My L4060 set to a 72" track is way more stable than my L3200 with a 60" track. Think my L4060 can go even wider, but haven't cared to look as 72" fits my needs & impliments well.

Already have 72" track, If I start doing more with tractor (with all this retirement talk, I am thinking of my options)

 

[fishpick]

...
In lieu of your remote switch, just get a horse or two and clean their stalls or feed them while the tractor warms up. That’s my solution

On a serious note, does the block heater help that much? I figured you’d have to let the hydro fluid warm up anyway before using.

We had hogs - I'm OK not having them and "waiting" for things to get ready No need for horses, goats, donkeys, mules or sheep to occupy my time while the tractor is getting ready

100% - the block heater makes a difference... I don't think - as @Fallon pointed out - in terms of "starting" but it matters in terms of "time to warm".

Here's my whopping 2 data points on this - same temp (about 22F).

Block heater plugged in for 2 hours - glow plug light on the dash is on for 2-3 seconds and as soon as the tractor starts (easy crank) the temp gauge needle shows at the "C" on the temp arc. It's above "C" in about 2 minutes of idle and starting to blow warm air in the cab.

Bloch heater NOT plugged in - glow plug light on the dash was on for maybe 6-7 seconds, tractor starts (easy crank), the temp gauge needle is at the bottom of the gauge. Took over 8 minutes of idle before the needle was at "C" - then things were the same from there on out.

So - if these Tier 4 engines are not supposed to idle for extended times because that makes more DPF schmutz... by my logic - using the block heater to shorten the time required for the tractor to "idle" AND (more importantly) get me some warm air in the cab faster - the block heater is a winner for cold weather.

I don't really worry about the "start it cold and bad things happen" - it's 2018 - things are not like they were when that mattered in 1935... I just like that it's warmer in the cab sooner using the block heater!

 

[majorwager]

Fishpick,
Know kubota blower on order. But for giggles, take a look a REIST Industries Snow Thrower. Single stage requires less HP. No spill over. My two stage allows material to spill past the sides when auger/fan are full, more snow to blow on next pass. A thrower keeps all snow in front of blower till chute empties. They have a video, worth a look? And a single unit can be either hydraulically or shaft PTO powered, versatile unit. Also adapter plate avail. For BOTH FEL quick mount OR 3 point mount. Canadian made, US dollar discount. These units run well at 400-500 PTO rpm, can run engine slightly slower, better fuel economy. My kubota has same engine as yours, less the DPF. I have never been happy with fuel economy at PTO speed. Will yours run from mid pto? That requires 2000 rpm gearbox, not sure if they offer that option and negates option for any desired rear use.

 

[mopardude318]

Have rear remotes? If so how bad do they leak down? Hope your are a lot better than mine. Been fighting to get the dealer ton them. My replacements are worst than the first ones so far.

On mine, yes, I have 3 remotes with top N tilt. The rear leaks down in a few hours. It may be the GearMore cylinders. I will see what happens when the FitRight cylinders come in.

What really irks me is the whole rear of the tractor leaks, all where the remotes are, and where the lift arms are all down to the draw bar...I don't really know how to fix that, it drives me crazy when I see my new tractor covered in hydraulic fluid and accumulated dirt. Something is for sure seeping...