77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression

[HomesteadOC]

Rings and pins are included with the pistons and the upper gasket set includes valve stem seals. Pretty good deal considering all the other prices Ive seen online.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Got the valve springs off, but the seals are stuck on there. I haven't tried to pry them off yet, I wanted to know how Im supposed to do it before I knick anything important. Theyre headed for the parts washer in the morning and hopefully I can get all the carbon out of the chambers and valves. Theres also a fair amount of rust and corrosion in the coolant areas, not really sure how to handle that other than media blasting everything I can see from inside the pathways, but there will undoubtable be leftovers I cant see. Is this a part that should be taken to a professional for cleaning?

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

A lot of the cleaning, painting, etc. is more of personal preference item than a question of necessity. Remember why you're going into the engine. It's not because of dirty coolant passages. Would you go into the engine to clean the passages if it were running ok? Because they would be just as dirty as they are now. I'm not trying to be condescending or ridiculous, just trying to help keep things in perspective. The older I get and the more I work on things the more I try to go back to the fundamentals because those are the things that are causing the problems, not how shiny the parts are. I had pumps rebuilt that were "bad", spent time and money porting and polishing heads on engines years ago and cleaning threads on bolts, etc. but most of these things made little difference in the end or I caused more problems than I "fixed" on them. If you like doing those things by all means go for it. It's all a great learning experience.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

I just looked at the cracked piston video - first time I've seen that one. Your rods looks straight. The one I had was about as obvious as the crack in your piston and was the only one I've seen to date. I'll keep a heightened awareness for cracked pistons now. Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:

 

[HomesteadOC]

Currently in the process of parts washing the head and every little piece thats on it. So far everything is clean except for cylinder 1s intake valve. For some reason the intakes are harder to clean that the exhausts even though the mounds of carbon on the exhausts were piled very high. I have a lot of rust and corrosion in the coolant passages and some surface rust on various parts of the head itself. The most difficult place to clean are the exhaust ports, I cant get in there with the brush or a scrub pad to scrape that off. Im contemplating using the bead/media blaster to get in there and show that carbon whose boss. I know the valve seats are a delicate no no place for glass beads, but is it worth the risk to shove the blaster hose past it? My other logical option is a drill mounted scrub brush. Right now my fingerprints are scrubbed off working the carbon off those valves. Im open to suggestions...

My reason for cleaning everything is because Im in there already so I want it shiny and the best it can be. The media blaster makes quick work of stuck on carbon, gaskets, and rust. Painting is easy and will protect the parts in the long run. Im waiting on parts to be delivered so I feel like I need to be doing something while I wait and I have a parts washer and media blaster just sitting here not being used. The carbon buildup is an issue for me, it can restrict flow and stick in the valve seats and couldve contributed to the compression issue. Ive decided against any kind of porting, except for the carbon removal, lol. The rust and corrosion in the coolant passages is also an issue, granted I wouldnt pull the head just to clean that, but Im already there for other reasons and if its going to be put in the media blasted cabinet for carbon then it might as well get blasted for rust and corrosion. The parts that are unreachable will hopefully be helped by the coolant flush Im going to use and then Ill use coolant instead of water to prevent further corrosion. I would hate to do all this work to get the tractor ready for another 40 years of service and then have a coolant passage rust through the block or the head because I didnt prevent it when I had the chance.

In other news, old ford engine blue is the best match for satoh engine color.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Got the cylinder head cleaned up pretty good after 2 rounds in the pressure washing steam washer. It loosened up a lot of carbon and blasted a lot off, after that the media blaster did a nice touch up. I blew off the dust with compressed air in all the passages before I took it back through the parts washer again, then air, then washer again. Then I lapped the valves with coarse then fine lapping compound and checked the fit with prussian blue. Valves are oiled up and reinstalled in their places until the new valve seals arrive. In the same shipment I should have new pistons, with rings and pins, top engine gasket set, oil pan gasket, rod bearings, and injector crush washers. Heres another fancy video...

 

[PILOON]

Read U loud and clear on the cleaning process.
I'm just like that also.
As to a cracked piston, could that be a result of either priming?

 

[HomesteadOC]

Read U loud and clear on the cleaning process.
I'm just like that also.
As to a cracked piston, could that be a result of either priming?

The crack doesnt look new, the carbon was caked on over the crack. I didnt see it til the metal, which makes me think its been cracked a while and eventually the other piston couldnt keep doing the work anymore due to stuck rings, and just wouldnt start. I knew never to try ether, but I didnt ask the seller. I was keeping him updated on my progress because he asked me to, but now its radio silence.

FYI Im not sure if theres a market for my one good piston, but its available for sale if anyone is interested. I can include the pin, and used but still ok rod bearings if desired.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Did you get results on the cylinder bore measurements?

 

[HomesteadOC]

Did you get results on the cylinder bore measurements?

Yes, but it wasnt done with a dial bore indicator, it was measured with a little spanner gauge and a digital micrometer. My largest measurement was 73.03mm at the top of cylinder 1, all other measurements were 73.01mm and 73.00mm. I know its not going to be as accurate, but thats what I had and theres no ridge so the nice guy at NCW convinced me that I wouldnt need a bore. He says usually a bore is not needed if theres no ridge.