Let's see some homemade 3 point ballast!

[Luke'sScreenName]

1300lbs...

 

[FSM5065]

Thanks, FSM5065

That's an impressive framework.

A few more questions, if I may....

36 x 60 lb bags of concrete = 2,160 lbs plus the weight of the steel! That's a heavy block! What are its dimensions?

What is the perpendicular distance between the centres of the upper holes and the lower holes?

I am still a bit confused about the bolts. I can see that the bolts are holding the framework to the ply, which would provide the stability required for the pour (although there seems to be more bolts than would be required to simply stabilise the ply.


In the final product, the ply has been removed. But there are still bolts. Did you replace the bolts for pure aesthetic reasons or was there some other reason?

Interestingly, while awaiting your reply, I did a bit of research about the feasibility of simply bolting a framework to a concrete block. A 1/2" sleeve anchor (3/8"bolt) has a tensile strength ranging from 2,200 lbs to 4,400 lbs, depending on the compressive strength of the concrete. I assume these figures are for a static load. Perhaps, a concrete block bouncing up and down subjects the anchors to different forces and the tensile figures can't be extrapolated from static to dynamic loads.

Even if one used only 25% of the tensile strength figure, by simply adding a sufficient number of anchors one should easily be able to support the block on a frame that is bolted to it.

I aim to get my block up to somewhere around 800kg (1,760 lbs) (after seeing your numbers I am inspired to go even higher) using as many brake rotors and other bits of steel I can encase in it. If one uses the 2,200 lb figure for low compression strength concrete, and divides that by four, that means one anchor can support 550 lbs. That, in turn, means three anchors should suffice for a 1,760 lb block. With six or eight anchors one should easily be able to support the block.

Am I missing something here?



As a newbie tractor owner, I don't quite follow this. Is this about the distance between the arms or about the hole sizes?

Cat I=7/8"(22mm) and Cat II=1 1/8" (29mm). If you put the Cat II balls in the outer slot, the pin diameter has to be 1 1/8". That means the holes in the outer and the middle plates have to be 1 1/8". If you put the Cat I balls in the inner slot, the pin diameter has to be 7/8". This means that the hole in the inner plate has to be 7/8". Does the pin you are using have two diameters - 1 1/8" between the handle and the inner plate position and 7/8" between the inner plate and the end?


Did you bevel the corners for aesthetics or for some functional reason?


Ken

Ken, the block is 45背 x 20 d x 32 h, the corners were beveled to reduce the chance of chipping and cracking. The height between the lower pin and the top pin is 14? The bolts that held the plywood on, were replaced with shorter bolts to keep water out and may later be used to attach hooks to hold chains.

The strength of concrete anchors assumes fully cured concrete. A block of concrete bouncing around there may well exceed the strength of the concrete and the anchors. To fully cure, a block of concrete that size may take several months.

The pin holes are for Cat II, if you look close enough, you can see bushings on the top bolt. My tractor is Cat II, but I still use a hydraulic top link that is Cat I. If using a Cat I tractor, use Cat II to Cat I bushings cut to fit. The lower lift attachment bar spacing is so that a quick hitch will work with the block.

I waited 3 weeks before using the lift arms to move it and several months before using it. The top basket was made 4 months after I made it. The angles are held on with hammered in concrete expansion anchors.


The weight of the cement, 34 bags @ 60 lb = 2040, 27 gallons of water, 3qt per bag= 224 lb and a 100 lbs or so of steel=2364 lbs. For my tractor, an extra 400 lbs wouldn稚 hurt. Hope this all helps.

 

[kenlip]

Ken, the block is 45背 x 20 d x 32 h, the corners were beveled to reduce the chance of chipping and cracking. The height between the lower pin and the top pin is 14? The bolts that held the plywood on, were replaced with shorter bolts to keep water out and may later be used to attach hooks to hold chains.

Bevelling edges make sense.

Good idea to use the bolt holes for hooks, etc.

The strength of concrete anchors assumes fully cured concrete. A block of concrete bouncing around there may well exceed the strength of the concrete and the anchors. To fully cure, a block of concrete that size may take several months.

Several months? I didn't realise it takes that long.

For my tractor, an extra 400 lbs wouldn't hurt. Hope this all helps.

It definitely does help. What tractor do you have?

Cheers
Ken

 

[FSM5065]

Bevelling edges make sense.

Good idea to use the bolt holes for hooks, etc.




Several months? I didn't realise it takes that long.




It definitely does help. What tractor do you have?

Cheers
Ken

John Deere 5065, with the grapple on, and the ballast block, the back still can get a little light if lifting a full load in the grapple. The grapple it痴 self is just under 1000 lbs.

 

[kenlip]

Here ya go. 1600+ pounds

Hi Lynn

Very neat.

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the block? Also, the distance of the lower holes from ground level and the perpendicular distance between the upper and lower holes.

Thanks
Ken

 

[cat fever]

Thanks Ken,

It's a total of 10 cubic feet. 24" square X 30" tall. The distance from lower links to upper link is 24".

Here's what it looks like inside. I did add a couple pieces of rebar not shown.

 

[kenlip]

It's a total of 10 cubic feet. 24" square X 30" tall. The distance from lower links to upper link is 24".

Thanks, Lynn

Seeing the inside is valuable info.

How far from the bottom (ground level) are the lower link holes?

Cheers
Ken

 

[cat fever]

Without measuring I think about 5-6". I made it so the lower links could be all the way down and leave the bottom of the ballast box 3-4" off the ground. Making a very low center of gravity. Works great on level ground, not so much on anything else, but then I just raise the 3 point a little.

When I take it off the tractor I have to put it on 6" pieces of wood because the lower link connections are so low. (on purpose)

 

[kenlip]

I made it so the lower links could be all the way down and leave the bottom of the ballast box 3-4" off the ground.

Is this so that there is no load on the 3ph hydraulics?

Ken

 

[cat fever]

Yes, thought it might be better that way.

 

[kenlip]

Lynn,

I have thinking about your idea of not loading the hydraulics, for a few days.

I am a total novice tractor owner, with only about 20 hours on my tractor, mainly repairing roads with the bucket and some pallet-fork work. Therefore, any thoughts I have on the matter have no basis in experience.

As a novice, with so little experience, I have some nagging thoughts that not being able to ground the ballast block without having at hand blocks to stand it on has the potential for me to find myself in a spot of bother. An experienced tractor user will almost certainly either know how to avoid getting into a situation where the ballast has to be jettisoned, or would know how to get out of the situation without jettisoning the ballast. I can't actually think of a specific scenario where the ballast might need to be jettisoned, but that doesn't mean there aren't any.

Still undecided.
Ken

 

[cat fever]

Here's the thing Ken,

There's no real hurry and you have time to consider everything you'll need/don't need out of your ballast box. Then build it to suit your needs. :thumbsup:

 

[kenlip]

A few questions about casting a concrete block...

1. When using regular plywood for the formwork, do you apply some sort of release agent to prevent adhesion between the concrete and the ply? I assume this isn't a problem if one uses Formply?

2. From what I have read, concrete cures to maximum strength if cured wet, and takes 28 days to achieve in the high 90s percentage of its maximum strength. Does this mean that all one has to do is leave the formwork in place for 28 days while ensuring that the top of the block is covered to prevent evaporation of any water?

3. My design (at the moment - it keeps changing as I read more TBN ) involves threaded rods passing right through the block and projecting through the formwork. If I run nuts on the rods snugged up against the formwork, I think this will be adequate to prevent bulging, or does one still need to built a frame out of 2x4s or similar?

Thanks
Ken

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

A few questions about casting a concrete block...

1. When using regular plywood for the formwork, do you apply some sort of release agent to prevent adhesion between the concrete and the ply? I assume this isn't a problem if one uses Formply?

2. From what I have read, concrete cures to maximum strength if cured wet, and takes 28 days to achieve in the high 90s percentage of its maximum strength. Does this mean that all one has to do is leave the formwork in place for 28 days while ensuring that the top of the block is covered to prevent evaporation of any water?

3. My design (at the moment - it keeps changing as I read more TBN ) involves threaded rods passing right through the block and projecting through the formwork. If I run nuts on the rods snugged up against the formwork, I think this will be adequate to prevent bulging, or does one still need to built a frame out of 2x4s or similar?

Thanks
Ken

1. Diesel spray.
2. Form can come off or not. Obviously, more covered is better. Letting it cure for for a month is overkill IMO. The Two concrete ballast boxes I have built I waited a week. YMMV.
3. Yes, you probably still need an "exoskeleton." (At least I would). Cheap insurance.

Also, when you pour, make sure you are on a level spot.

 

[cat fever]

1. Diesel spray.
2. Form can come off or not. Obviously, more covered is better. Letting it cure for for a month is overkill IMO. The Two concrete ballast boxes I have built I waited a week. YMMV.
3. Yes, you probably still need an "exoskeleton." (At least I would). Cheap insurance.

Also, when you pour, make sure you are on a level spot.

^^^^^
What he said. Except I used old motor oil to coat the forms.

I removed the forms the day after I poured it. Moved it into the barn after about 5 days. Then let it sit for about 3 weeks while I painted it. There are no cracks or anything that I can see.

 

[TractorNH]

^^^^^
What he said. Except I used old motor oil to coat the forms.

I removed the forms the day after I poured it. Moved it into the barn after about 5 days. Then let it sit for about 3 weeks while I painted it. There are no cracks or anything that I can see.

Did you do anything to wash it to remove the motor oil before you painted it?

 

[cat fever]

Yes, we used a cement cleaner of some sort. My wife bought it, I just used it.:laughing:

I would have just used some dish soap and called it good.

 

[Big Barn]

Looking for ideas to make my own 3 point ballast. I'd love to see what you've made for yours.

 

[cat fever]

View attachment 556757

Good idea! You can shift the ballast to wherever it's needed. :laughing:

 

[Big Barn]

Good idea! You can shift the ballast to wherever it's needed. :laughing:

You mean like the milking parlor, chicken coop, kitchen.... right?