Let's see some homemade 3 point ballast!

[Luke'sScreenName]

1300lbs...

 

[FSM5065]

Thanks, FSM5065

That's an impressive framework.

A few more questions, if I may....

36 x 60 lb bags of concrete = 2,160 lbs plus the weight of the steel! That's a heavy block! What are its dimensions?

What is the perpendicular distance between the centres of the upper holes and the lower holes?

I am still a bit confused about the bolts. I can see that the bolts are holding the framework to the ply, which would provide the stability required for the pour (although there seems to be more bolts than would be required to simply stabilise the ply.


In the final product, the ply has been removed. But there are still bolts. Did you replace the bolts for pure aesthetic reasons or was there some other reason?

Interestingly, while awaiting your reply, I did a bit of research about the feasibility of simply bolting a framework to a concrete block. A 1/2" sleeve anchor (3/8"bolt) has a tensile strength ranging from 2,200 lbs to 4,400 lbs, depending on the compressive strength of the concrete. I assume these figures are for a static load. Perhaps, a concrete block bouncing up and down subjects the anchors to different forces and the tensile figures can't be extrapolated from static to dynamic loads.

Even if one used only 25% of the tensile strength figure, by simply adding a sufficient number of anchors one should easily be able to support the block on a frame that is bolted to it.

I aim to get my block up to somewhere around 800kg (1,760 lbs) (after seeing your numbers I am inspired to go even higher) using as many brake rotors and other bits of steel I can encase in it. If one uses the 2,200 lb figure for low compression strength concrete, and divides that by four, that means one anchor can support 550 lbs. That, in turn, means three anchors should suffice for a 1,760 lb block. With six or eight anchors one should easily be able to support the block.

Am I missing something here?



As a newbie tractor owner, I don't quite follow this. Is this about the distance between the arms or about the hole sizes?

Cat I=7/8"(22mm) and Cat II=1 1/8" (29mm). If you put the Cat II balls in the outer slot, the pin diameter has to be 1 1/8". That means the holes in the outer and the middle plates have to be 1 1/8". If you put the Cat I balls in the inner slot, the pin diameter has to be 7/8". This means that the hole in the inner plate has to be 7/8". Does the pin you are using have two diameters - 1 1/8" between the handle and the inner plate position and 7/8" between the inner plate and the end?


Did you bevel the corners for aesthetics or for some functional reason?


Ken

Ken, the block is 45背 x 20 d x 32 h, the corners were beveled to reduce the chance of chipping and cracking. The height between the lower pin and the top pin is 14? The bolts that held the plywood on, were replaced with shorter bolts to keep water out and may later be used to attach hooks to hold chains.

The strength of concrete anchors assumes fully cured concrete. A block of concrete bouncing around there may well exceed the strength of the concrete and the anchors. To fully cure, a block of concrete that size may take several months.

The pin holes are for Cat II, if you look close enough, you can see bushings on the top bolt. My tractor is Cat II, but I still use a hydraulic top link that is Cat I. If using a Cat I tractor, use Cat II to Cat I bushings cut to fit. The lower lift attachment bar spacing is so that a quick hitch will work with the block.

I waited 3 weeks before using the lift arms to move it and several months before using it. The top basket was made 4 months after I made it. The angles are held on with hammered in concrete expansion anchors.


The weight of the cement, 34 bags @ 60 lb = 2040, 27 gallons of water, 3qt per bag= 224 lb and a 100 lbs or so of steel=2364 lbs. For my tractor, an extra 400 lbs wouldn稚 hurt. Hope this all helps.

 

[kenlip]

Ken, the block is 45背 x 20 d x 32 h, the corners were beveled to reduce the chance of chipping and cracking. The height between the lower pin and the top pin is 14? The bolts that held the plywood on, were replaced with shorter bolts to keep water out and may later be used to attach hooks to hold chains.

Bevelling edges make sense.

Good idea to use the bolt holes for hooks, etc.

The strength of concrete anchors assumes fully cured concrete. A block of concrete bouncing around there may well exceed the strength of the concrete and the anchors. To fully cure, a block of concrete that size may take several months.

Several months? I didn't realise it takes that long.

For my tractor, an extra 400 lbs wouldn't hurt. Hope this all helps.

It definitely does help. What tractor do you have?

Cheers
Ken

 

[FSM5065]

Bevelling edges make sense.

Good idea to use the bolt holes for hooks, etc.




Several months? I didn't realise it takes that long.




It definitely does help. What tractor do you have?

Cheers
Ken

John Deere 5065, with the grapple on, and the ballast block, the back still can get a little light if lifting a full load in the grapple. The grapple it痴 self is just under 1000 lbs.

 

[kenlip]

Here ya go. 1600+ pounds

Hi Lynn

Very neat.

Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the block? Also, the distance of the lower holes from ground level and the perpendicular distance between the upper and lower holes.

Thanks
Ken

 

[cat fever]

Thanks Ken,

It's a total of 10 cubic feet. 24" square X 30" tall. The distance from lower links to upper link is 24".

Here's what it looks like inside. I did add a couple pieces of rebar not shown.

 

[kenlip]

It's a total of 10 cubic feet. 24" square X 30" tall. The distance from lower links to upper link is 24".

Thanks, Lynn

Seeing the inside is valuable info.

How far from the bottom (ground level) are the lower link holes?

Cheers
Ken

 

[cat fever]

Without measuring I think about 5-6". I made it so the lower links could be all the way down and leave the bottom of the ballast box 3-4" off the ground. Making a very low center of gravity. Works great on level ground, not so much on anything else, but then I just raise the 3 point a little.

When I take it off the tractor I have to put it on 6" pieces of wood because the lower link connections are so low. (on purpose)

 

[kenlip]

I made it so the lower links could be all the way down and leave the bottom of the ballast box 3-4" off the ground.

Is this so that there is no load on the 3ph hydraulics?

Ken

 

[cat fever]

Yes, thought it might be better that way.