Mahindra Max 26XL HST - A New Owner's Journal

radios1 · Jun 25, 2018

GirlWhoWantsTractor said:
Removing the oil:

Remove drain plug. Won't a lot of oil come pouring out?

Remove oil filter, dump oil and replace. Same concern as above.

Couldn't I just unscrew the oil fill cap and use a clean, new turkey baster to suck out the extra oil?

Also, given it takes 4.4 quarts of oil total, given the 1/2 inch extra, are we looking at around 1/2 quart extra?

what you need to do is be quick, and only let out about 1/2 quart, then recheck the dipstick(pull it out, wipe it with a clean paper towel, re insert it, and look at it).. the concern about the oil level being too high is that the crankshaft will dip into it, and sling it around, which can cause foaming, and that is why most dipsticks have printed on them "do not overfill"..

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Jun 25, 2018

So the dealer offered to come by the house tomorrow with an oil extractor. I hate to put him to that trouble, but nice of him to offer, and he probably didn't want me messing with trying to drain the oil.

mike69440 · Jun 25, 2018

Wagtail said:
Have you been 'around' the tractor and tightened/torqued the wheel nuts... if anything, for piece of mind? The same for any nut/bolt you can find, greased every grease nipple (zerk) and spray lubricated everything that moves but doesn't have a nipple?

Fluid levels correct?

Any colour tractor provider, when preparing/wetting-up for delivery can miss stuff.

You most likely will not die if a wheel loosens up on a tractor at 8 MPH tops, but the loader fame bolts are difficult to tighten in the tight spots and the people who assemble them are prone to finger tight the tough ones, especially after a hard night. Good idea to check those. Just saying.

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Jun 25, 2018

Made the long drive to Harbor Freight and picked up the quick-attach hitch. Also bought some other miscellaneous stuff as one always does in that place.

Jay picked up a funny ratchet that bends itself into a pretzel, so that went into the cart. Have realized a tractor consists entirely of tight spaces, so it might come in handy. Was eyeing the Pittsburgh mechanics sets, but actually I'm pretty sure I have all of that; if it turns out I need a couple of sizes I don't have I can get them individually and get better quality. Got some mechanics gloves. I find you can never have too many work gloves or safety glasses. (However, I truly believe you can have too many screwdrivers and believe I am guilty there.) Also picked up an inexpensive "fluid transfer" pump that can be used for oil changes, just around 7 bucks. So will try to do that in the morning to remove the excess oil myself.

Did not get a torque wrench as all they had were "click type" and a digital add-on thing that looks like it would get in the way. Still not sure what to buy.

So day 4, no seat time again. Tomorrow after extracting the excess oil, I will faithfully check every single thing on the tractor, as everyone here has kindly but firmly recommended, and then hopefully a little more box-blading fun.

radios1 · Jun 25, 2018

actually, the "Click type" is time proven, as long as you have it calibrated occasionally.. forgot to mention, it's also the slimmest profile type.. there's another type with a pointer and scale, those are not sold at HF though.. any type of torque wrench needs to be occasionally calibrated though..

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Jun 25, 2018

radios1 said:
actually, the "Click type" is time proven, as long as you have it calibrated occasionally.. forgot to mention, it's also the slimmest profile type.. there's another type with a pointer and scale, those are not sold at HF though.. any type of torque wrench needs to be occasionally calibrated though..

Okay, will pick up a click-type hopefully locally. And add to the list "learn how to calibrate a torque wrench." Thanks!

Wagtail · Jun 25, 2018

GirlWhoWantsTractor said:
Okay, will pick up a click-type hopefully locally. And add to the list "learn how to calibrate a torque wrench." Thanks!

When you go to purchase your torque wrench, bring your owners manual with you as it will show what the range/setting(s) will need to be. Then you can ask to be shown and instructed on how to 'dial in' those settings. (write that procedure down... in pencil)

Don't leave your torque wrench 'permanently' at the torque setting that you require (once you've used it). You need to back it off to zero when being stored. This will keep it within calibrated tolerance for longer between the requirement for calibration. Mind you, the torquing requirements for a tractor isn't that much of a precision 'thing'... it's mostly to ensure that the bolt/nut is tight whilst not excessively tight.

As long as you don't drop the torque wrench, from a height, onto a hard surface, it should be fine for years of your infrequent use between uses. It's a different story for a torque wrench that is used constantly.

Automotive shops/stores (as opposed to tractor shops/dealerships) are a great source for torque wrenches and the expertise to use them.

NOTE: When writing anything in/on your Manual, always use a pencil. If you've used ink and the manual gets wet, the ink may run. Pencil doesn't run or streak.

GirlWhoWantsTractor · Jun 25, 2018

Wagtail said:
When you go to purchase your torque wrench, bring your owners manual with you as it will show what the range/setting(s) will need to be. Then you can ask to be shown and instructed on how to 'dial in' those settings. (write that procedure down... in pencil)

My owners manual is in my purse at all times.

When someone asks What's new? I whip it out.

The clerk at HF had no idea about the settings.

AchingBack · Jun 25, 2018

I use el cheapo spray furniture polish on my thunderbird, and my tractor. I even apply it under the hood. You can pay more fore Johnson's, but the Dollar Tree and Walmart brands work just as well. It is the quickest, easiest product to apply and wipe off to a shine. It works well on clean glass, too.