B2650 ROPS light mounting bracket?

atitus74 · Sep 20, 2018

Correction, that is ropslights.com

Rob 80 · Sep 20, 2018

atitus74 said:
Correction, that is ropslights.com

HA HA of course............. they look good and are the brightest i've seen yet. 4560 lumens each

JWR · Sep 21, 2018

Rob 80 said:
I'm surprised that there is no aftermarket product light kit for tractors. Now i need to find some decent wire any idea on what gauge?

thanks for the help everyone and for the part # atitus74

I have not searched but I would be very surprised if there is no aftermarket light kit for tractors...

So I just did -- go to Amazon.com and search on "tractor light kit." This will pull up a long page, the first 6 or 8 items of which are light kits with wiring, rocker switch, etc. Keep scrolling down and you will find Nilight LED Light Bar Wiring Harness Kit 12V On Off Switch Power Relay Blade Fuse for Off Road Lights LED Work Light for about $7 on the first page.

This goes on for 20 pages but I won't say all of them are relevant.

If you choose to do it from scratch yourself, I would use stranded 20 or 22 guage wire which is probably overkill. The terminology is "stranded hookup wire." Auto parts stores carry that as well as crimp type connectors, fuses, switches, etc. I like the multi-wire cable (esp. if you are wiring multiple lights) that has an all weather outer sheath to it. Try Radio Shack if they still exist. Lowes and Home Depot probably sell it by the foot.

atitus74 · Sep 21, 2018

Like JWR said, if you buy the pieces separately like I did, you will need hookup wire. Often in auto parts stores its easy to find, they call it "primary wire." There are many web sites on the internet that will explain how to choose which size (gauge) wire. With my setup it was 2X18 watts + 76 watts for a total of 112 watts total. The tractor is a 12v system, so for me its just under 10 amps. I got 16 ga wire to be on the safe side. Don't forget an inline fuse, also available at most auto parts stores. Always install the fuse in the wire attached to the POSITIVE side of the battery. Do these things and you are fine.

Rob 80 · Sep 21, 2018

atitus74 said:
Like JWR said, if you buy the pieces separately like I did, you will need hookup wire. Often in auto parts stores its easy to find, they call it "primary wire." There are many web sites on the internet that will explain how to choose which size (gauge) wire. With my setup it was 2X18 watts + 76 watts for a total of 112 watts total. The tractor is a 12v system, so for me its just under 10 amps. I got 16 ga wire to be on the safe side. Don't forget an inline fuse, also available at most auto parts stores. Always install the fuse in the wire attached to the POSITIVE side of the battery. Do these things and you are fine.

So what is the max watts i can pull before killing my battery around 112 watts? That does not count the factory lights. I will have a look JWR. It seems to be cheaper if you build your own of course.

I guess you could run only one wire to the battery to the back then just join the other wires to the one wire? 2 or 3 wires from the rops. I would solder them and use heat shrink. I even have a cigarette lighter socket at the back of the tractor i could use that might turn on and off.

The trouble is i have to put my rops down to get into the garage.

Is it better to get 2 flood lights and then a spot light bar in the middle?

atitus74 · Sep 21, 2018

The 112 was just my example. You can get whatever you want. The battery is pretty substantial, would support pretty large power draw. You just have to make sure that all the parts (switches, wire, etc) are rated to carry the load. Rops folding is something you do have to watch for when you install the parts, make sure lights don't get in the way.

JWR · Sep 21, 2018

Yeah Rob, I agree with atitus comments overall. Do not worry about dragging down your battery. Anytime the motor runs the battery is being charged/kept charged and the relatively small drain of lights is of no real concern. Just like a car -- leave your lights on for a few hours without running the motor and, yes, you will run down your battery.

"Is it better to get 2 flood lights and then a spot light bar in the middle?" That's entirely up to you. There is no such thing as "better."

No, I do not think it is cheaper to do it from scratch with wire and parts, etc. The $7.xx kit on Amazon is less than you would spend for the individual parts and besides chasing all that takes time.

Rob 80 · Sep 22, 2018

I found a plug to add more lights on the tractor it even has a tag on it saying the max watts. It's back behind the seat now i just need to figure out what type of plug that is.

JWR · Sep 22, 2018

I'd put a meter on them and see what turns the circuit on and off or whether it is always on, etc. Those are very common type connectors in tractor wiring even back decades ago. I do not know what they are called. Might or might not find them in an auto parts store. My guess is that those connectors were for a rear work light and that the circuit comes on when your tractor headlight switch goes on. That was the case with similar wires/connectors I found back there on my B2150 and I used them for an extra light. Pretty handy to have them already turned on and off with an existing light switch (if that is the case.)

atitus74 · Sep 22, 2018

No guarantee but that looks like the connectors on my hazard lights for the grass catcher. I'd do what jwr says. Put a voltmeter on it and turn on the hazard light button on the dash and see what happens.