I suspect that the "silence" switch (the one with 3 wires on it) has the center pole and the pole that goes to the float permantly connected and moving the switch just connects and disconnects the buzzer (thus the float and the lamp are permanently connected).I saw your pictures the other day and sketched out a schematic yesterday afternoon. Either I've drawn it wrong, or it makes no sense to me, or the center pole on the back of the switches are not the center poles electrically. When it's in the silent position, there's no complete circuit to the buzzer. When it's in the alarm/reset position, both sides of the buzzer are shorted together through the lamp, and there's no complete circuit anyway, unless the test button is activated.
View attachment 597440
Hopefully, I've just drawn it incorrectly.
I suspect that the "silence" switch (the one with 3 wires on it) has the center pole and the pole that goes to the float permantly connected and moving the switch just connects and disconnects the buzzer (thus the float and the lamp are permanently connected).
I traced out the wires and color coded them with colored dots:
Yellow= Neutral, goes to the lamp and the buzzer
Blue= Power in, goes to the "Test" switch and the white wire on the float)
Grey= Switched power from the "Test" switch to the center pole on the "Silence" switch and to the hot side of the lamp
Red= Power out from the "Silence" switch to the buzzer
My guess would be that the "Test" switch has failed internally and is not turning off when switched to "Off" position.
Aaron Z
I suspect that the "silence" switch (the one with 3 wires on it) has the center pole and the pole that goes to the float permantly connected and moving the switch just connects and disconnects the buzzer (thus the float and the lamp are permanently connected).
I traced out the wires and color coded them with colored dots:
Yellow= Neutral, goes to the lamp and the buzzer
Blue= Power in, goes to the "Test" switch and the white wire on the float)
Grey= Switched power from the "Test" switch to the center pole on the "Silence" switch and to the hot side of the lamp
Red= Power out from the "Silence" switch to the buzzer
My guess would be that the "Test" switch has failed internally and is not turning off when switched to "Off" position.
Aaron Z
Mind you were overthinking this. But your drawing seems correct. The incoming neutral ONLY contacts the buzzer and the light. It doesnt land on any switch. The test momentary switch only completes a circuit when held closed and this sends power to the light and buzzer bypassing float. If the silence switch is left in silent position, power coming thru closed float will only make it to the light. If it is in normal position, the power from float being closed would only go to the buzzer. Apairently the light and buzzer cant work together under normal alarm modeThe schemtic I drew cannot be correct. If it is, the way it's drawn, the signal from the switch comes off the B wire, through the silence side of the switch, through the lamp, skips the buzzer, and goes out the white neutral wire. That seems ok.
But if the switch is flipped to the alarm/reset position, the signal from the switch comes off the B wire and stops at the switch. It can't go anywhere.
Therefore, I think the drawing of the switch, assuming the center pole on the drawing is the physical center pole of the switch, cannot be correct, because if it is, there's no way for the circuit to complete in the alarm/reset position. Also, if you put the test switch in the test position and leave the silence switch in the silence position, it shorts the black and white wires together. The switches can't have the physical center pole as assumed in my schematic drawing. If they do, something is miswired.... (probably my brain! :laughing
its hard to tell with the original picture of the internal wiring, but i see your point. If the switch is in reset position, i cant see how alarm float position gets to alarm. Very weirdThank you! :laughing:
However, if the drawing is correct, if the switch is in the silence position, the buzzer won't work (as expected, because it's silent). But if the switch is in the alarm position, the float switch can't make any of the circuit because that disconnects the B wire from the float switch from everything else. Something's not correct. I'll bow out, because I think I'm just muddying the waters.
