Laser for fence layout > 1000ft

[Dadnatron]

Putting in fence with several very visible straight stretches. I had a nice Bosch laser level which was stolen, so I知 looking for something which will give me an EASY straight line for fence layout.

I know about a transit, but I知 really looking for something I can do alone if possible.

I need a laser source that is powerful enough for a long distance if at all possible, and a detector. The beginning and end points are always within line of sight of each other.

I saw 鏑ine Wizard which would likely work, but it痴 close to $800 and I壇 like to find something less expensive if possible.

Any thoughts?

 

[RNeumann]

1000’ in daylight with a laser is difficult....on a budget and or available to the general public. If you don’t have midpoints you will need to set a few with a partner and trans or something with cross hairs. Even if set 3-4 spots in the 1000’ that would help.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I bought my Top con at Tiger Supplies. Best prices around and made buying new a better bet than close to new prices for dubious used stuff.

I am not sure if they have what you want, but it's worth seeing what they have. I did a cursory look and only found units in the 200 foot range.

 

[Diggin It]

Previous similar thread:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...recommended-laser-fencing-property-lines.html

 

[Fallon]

1000’ in daylight with a laser is difficult....on a budget and or available to the general public. If you don’t have midpoints you will need to set a few with a partner and trans or something with cross hairs. Even if set 3-4 spots in the 1000’ that would help.

A 600mw laser is hard to see at 10' in daylight. You'll end up needing a laser detector to be useful. Rotary lasers are usually good up to a 1000' radius, 2,000' diameter if you plant it in the center. Those ranges are only with a laser detector. Only some of the rotary lasers will work in a vertical orientation.

I sent my CTS/Berger back because of grade slope issues. But it did fine for basic level horisonal & vertical stuff. CST-berger RL25HCK Horizontal Self-Leveling Rotary Laser Complete Package

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=414827 I havent gotten the new Dewalt in yet so cant comment on it.

 

[orezok]

Lets Macgiver this. Get a 500 mw handheld laser. $20 to $30 bucks. Rigidly secure it to a survey tripod or similar. Place a 4x8 sheet of plywood at the termination point. Go out at night and "aim" the laser at the plywood. You should be able to see it at 1000'. The next day while wearing laser protection glasses go to the halfway point and look back at the handheld and you should be able to drop a stone or plumb bob within an inch or 2. Then reverse the process and work backwards. I would not look at a 500 mw laser at less than 500' even with laser glasses.

Now this will only work if the land is very level as the laser does not have a vertical component.

 

[LD48750]

Lets Macgiver this. Get a 500 mw handheld laser. $20 to $30 bucks. Rigidly secure it to a survey tripod or similar. Place a 4x8 sheet of plywood at the termination point. Go out at night and "aim" the laser at the plywood. You should be able to see it at 1000'. The next day while wearing laser protection glasses go to the halfway point and look back at the handheld and you should be able to drop a stone or plumb bob within an inch or 2. Then reverse the process and work backwards. I would not look at a 500 mw laser at less than 500' even with laser glasses.

Now this will only work if the land is very level as the laser does not have a vertical component.

I like this idea.
I know the laser on my pistol will reach out 500' at night.
Set laser up on tripod, sight to a sheet of plywood at night, spray paint the point it hits and drive a stake that night or next morning.
Rotate 180 deg. & repeat.

 

[Fuddy1952]

When I installed a long fence line my wife helped. I have a Ruger .243 with Bushnell scope (I unloaded it, checked chamber, safety on!). Then I laid out 3ft. stakes every 50ft.
I had her hold 10ft. 1"x1" pole, post level on it. I'd site it in any she would move stake to exact spot every 50ft.
It went fast, accurate, and that's where I auger drilled and put a treated post (3ft. down well tamped, ends in concrete). Then I ran a string post to post. Using a 10ft. PVC pipe I'd go along with (4) seven ft. T posts driving them in level. Installed wire 8" up so I can mow along easily, stretched super tight two 2x4s bolted together and come-a-longs.
End posts I put a post 45 degrees notched and bolted to upright ones. A double post 3ft. apart with crossbeam every 5th one.
I've never fenced before, just figured it out.

 

[BrokenTrack]

When I lay out my fencing here, I just use string. It comes in 1000 foot lengths and is pretty cheap to buy. No problem seeing it in the sunlight either, and gives me a straight fence line in the end.

 

[Diggin It]

The problems with string over that distance is that it will sag under its own weight and it will be subject to winds. Works better if you can lay it on the ground, but that presents problems also.

How 'straight' do most fences really need to be? Precision? Or just enough to appear straight without wavering and looking crooked?

 

[oosik]

I would guess it depends upon how really "right on" one needs to be. My 80 acres is 1320 x 2640. I know the corners because of previous surveys by neighbors to divide their properties. I can see the distant corner. Set one corner post. Have a friend go out a couple hundred feet with fence post - sight it in and set it. Continue, every couple hundred feet, until entire line is set. Drive in all the intervening posts and stretch the barbed wire. Good enough.

Out here property is measured in miles - not inches. I know that most all property corners, out here, are set by survey. The intervening property line - not so much. The property lines are as straight as the eye can see. It's been this way since the original homesteads in 1892 and isn't likely to change any time soon.

 

[fried1765]

I would guess it depends upon how really "right on" one needs to be. My 80 acres is 1320 x 2640. I know the corners because of previous surveys by neighbors to divide their properties. I can see the distant corner. Set one corner post. Have a friend go out a couple hundred feet with fence post - sight it in and set it. Continue, every couple hundred feet, until entire line is set. Drive in all the intervening posts and stretch the barbed wire. Good enough.

Out here property is measured in miles - not inches. I know that most all property corners, out here, are set by survey. The intervening property line - not so much. The property lines are as straight as the eye can see. It's been this way since the original homesteads in 1892 and isn't likely to change any time soon.

It all depends on where you are.
Surveyors typically measure to .01' in more populated areas.

 

[BrokenTrack]

I got a piece of property where there is no rightful way to tell where the lines are. It is all laid out by rock walls, so the distances are given as "250 feet, more or less, running southwesterly along said rock wall." Apparently the original surveyor assumed the rock walls would also be there, but they are long gone, so it is just a guess on the corner pins. You really cannot go by compass direction because no degrees or minutes were given, and distance as expressed as "more or less", which means nothing in surveying.

Around here the corner pins are typically properly placed, but the line markers are way off. Lines are never straight because as the original surveyors laid out the lines, if a nice stand of Pine or Spruce was to be on the other side of the line, the line tended to bow in or out to get the good stand of lucrative wood.

About once a year I am down to the Registry of Deeds and the women down there say, "well I have not seen that before." Some are court injunctions from the 1830's, some are water rights, private cemeteries, municipal dumps, life leases, power line rights of way, land once owned by the Federal Government, etc. It really is amazing the crazy crap I have here lurking in my deeds.

 

[EddieWalker]

I think that you are wasting your time and money trying to find a laser to replace using wire or string. I use a Bosch lazer for tile layout, and it's awesome, but it's indoors most of the time and distances are not very far. It also times out after ten minutes or so.

String is cheap, but it's not very good at being straight for very long because it breaks when you pull it too tight. Smooth wire such as high tensile or wire for electric fence is what I like the best. I can anchor it at my corner posts and pull it super tight so I have a straight line. Then I can measure it out for T posts, line posts, H bracing and gates in needed. When done, it's easy to roll up and use over and over again.

Sometimes, keeping it simple is the faster, cheaper and more reliable way to do things.

s

 

[Diggin It]

Sometimes, keeping it simple is the faster, cheaper and more reliable way to do things.

'High' tech isn't always best.

K. I. S. S.

 

[oosik]

Years ago I worked for the Health Dept in an adjoining county. They bought a very expensive laser survey instrument - and NEVER used it. I found it one day - up in the attic. All anybody knew of this instrument - it was purchased with Federal Matching funds and nobody ever took the time to learn how to use it. Sad.

 

[Industrial Toys]

I hope you offered to clean out the attic.

 

[Fuddy1952]

When I had my place surveyed, and same surveyor did my homeplace within last two years, they found original iron rods which I spray painted fluorescent orange. They used a GPS instrument that was highly accurate and marked every 50ft, flagged stake.
I put a treated post just inside iron rod, used it to site long distances corner to corner. I knew when handheld stick was in crosshairs it had to be right.

 

[Fallon]

When I had my place surveyed, and same surveyor did my homeplace within last two years, they found original iron rods which I spray painted fluorescent orange. They used a GPS instrument that was highly accurate and marked every 50ft, flagged stake.
I put a treated post just inside iron rod, used it to site long distances corner to corner. I knew when handheld stick was in crosshairs it had to be right.

Similar to mine. They setup a differential GPS beakon in a random spot. They then took their fancy GPS reciever unit & marked out where the corners were. They then used a metal detector to find all 4 corner pins. All pins are where they should have been. They then walked the property line & stuck in sticks every 100' where the unit told them to. Suppose to be accurate within inches. All the sticks seem to line up like I'd expect.

Cost $400 if I recall & only took an hour or 2. Not cheap, but not to bad. Mine was only 5 acres with open sight lines from all the corners. Probably more for miles of fence.

 

[bcp]

I was told by a surveyor working on neighbor's property, that the cost was $900 for each marked point. Those 4 corners cost him $3600.

Bruce