lol
Sorry, wasn't trying to flex. Just thinking out loud!
Yeah, I've used my hoist for a lot of tasks that have nothing to do with lifting a vehicle.
Buffet Table is the most celebrated!!!
I have a 10,000 pound 4 post lift in my new shop and we're thinking of backing the truck in, rigging some chain to the lift, lifting the box blade up and driving the truck out and then setting it on the shop floor. My FEL with forks lifted the beast up in the truck bed, but we kept lifting a rear tire when I tried to back away at an angle to clear it from the truck bed due to how high I had to lift the loader arms. I'm sure that with it on the ground I can pick it and put it where ever I want with the forks and some chain. I may hook it up to the 3 point and see how it works before I decide what to do. Just wanted some time to think about it. I'm not licked yet!
Can't lift it that high or else that's what I would have done. Had to grab it from the side of the truck.
So you can't lift from the side of the truck and have the tractor clear the truck and simply drive the truck out from under the box blade?You don't have to be at the back of the truck to be able to drive the truck out from under the box blade.
Because the loader arms are so high (nearly full extension) with that 1150+ pounds hanging off them, the rear tires start lifting...add to that I don't have a perfectly level spot and the tractor begins to tilt at the front. My fear is I'll start lowering it and any little bounce will cause the tractor to tip to the front and one side...possibly tipping it over. Just a bit sketchy and I don't want to die or smash my tractor up for this implement. The guy who transported it for me is a rigger for gas and oil companies. He tried a few things, but in the end said it was too sketchy. If I had more ballast at the rear of the tractor it wouldn't have been a problem. I can't get my rear tires filled until next week and the heaviest 3 point implement I have is a 60" rotary cutter (which was hanging off the back of the tractor)
Make sense?
Because the loader arms are so high (nearly full extension) with that 1150+ pounds hanging off them, the rear tires start lifting...add to that I don't have a perfectly level spot and the tractor begins to tilt at the front. My fear is I'll start lowering it and any little bounce will cause the tractor to tip to the front and one side...possibly tipping it over. Just a bit sketchy and I don't want to die or smash my tractor up for this implement. The guy who transported it for me is a rigger for gas and oil companies. He tried a few things, but in the end said it was too sketchy. If I had more ballast at the rear of the tractor it wouldn't have been a problem. I can't get my rear tires filled until next week and the heaviest 3 point implement I have is a 60" rotary cutter (which was hanging off the back of the tractor)
Make sense?
Thanks. I'm going to try it out. Cat 1-2 bushings will be here tomorrow.Well that's the great thing about a Gannon box blade...
ONCE you can get it mounted to the 3 point- the light rear axle will go away .
I always leave the Gannon on when moving anything really heavy with the tractor.
The other nice thing is they really don't hang that far back from the tractor, so as to keep the tractor length to a minimum.
Hoping you give the Gannon a good chance on your Kioti and it works out.
ps. living in upstate New York a good amount of snow probably falls in the winter.?.
I use my Gannon with the tailgate locked down and plow backwards with it and then forwards with the bucket -. Kind of amazing how well the Gannon actually moves snow.
Do you have two (significantly sized) trees that are close together such that you can use them to rig up to to hoist the box blade out of the bed?
Or with one tree (or maybe even the tractor) you could anchor the box blade to it and drive out the truck. Of course, you'd want to remove the tailgate and have something down on the bed (pry up box blade) and ample ramps (blocked). Could augment with tractor.
I've sought out lower ground to pull the back end of my truck up to to unload.
I've never failed to unload anything. Sometimes it can get a little harrowing.
That'll be a nice box blade. You really want it to be heavy to work well.



Well, we got it out of his truck (was ridiculously easy once we thought about it a little) I had new hoses made up as the old ones looked brittle and I put it to work this evening. It's amazing how well these things work. The hydraulic scarifiers are such a wonderful addition. I started grading a neighbor's driveway and before long I had made a huge improvement (pics coming later on) I need to learn how to tilt this using the manual tilt link as this thing is so heavy it's hard to get it to move. Must be a technique I need to learn to make it easier and yes..I know a hydraulic tilt would be the way to go. I'm researching them as I go along. So far very pleased with this and the extra weight does seem to be a big benefit.
I had the ram removed in these pics while new hoses were being made up so you can see the ratchet strap holding the scarifier bar up so I could get the lower ram pin out.
View attachment 617288View attachment 617287View attachment 617286
Holy cow. That thing is big. Surprised your tractor can lift it!
Excellent!
Adjusting the tilt manually IS a bit tricky. I have only done it once with my boxblade and it was reverse of what most people likely do: I was cutting in a "V". I just dropped the link arms and cranked up, dropped arms, cranked and so on until I had enough tilt: felt it was easier to raise than to lower (or so I guessed at the time).
I couldn't justify the extra expense for hydraulic tilt as I don't have much need to change tilt. Top link, however, is totally necessary, and I couldn't imagine how anyone could get anything done without it.
That's Great news:thumbsup:
If you need to tilt the gannon up in the front manually -i would suggest using the 3 point lift by watching the upper link hit a point where it is just going in to tension you can then turn the top link to lengthen it. Once it binds up from the weight just inch up the 3 point lever to put just a little tension on the top link and screw it out a bit more to get the angle you want
If lowering the front of the blade set the box blade down to where the rear of the blade is touching -once again to remove pressure on the top link. then start shortening the top link once it starts to bind lower the 3 point control a bit more and continue to shorten the top link until you get to the desired position in length.
It sure points out how nice a top and tilt would be, but this method works for me .
Hope this makes sense and works for you.
ps. Be safe - since the tractor has to be running while moving the 3 point up for this method