any toro groundsmaster fans on here?

[Volvoman]

It’s been awhile since I first contributed to this thread about my GM 52 that I purchased new back in the early 1980s. Still have it and use it regularly. Wife now uses it mostly, and would like for me to get another older GM to she can get some help with the 3 acres we mow now. Not wanting to purchase a new one, as there are none like the old GM 52 being made these days. But, there are always GMs to be found online. Most are diesel powered. This is why I am posting this question: Don’t the diesel powered Groundsmaster mowers, like the 223D or 328D, overpower the operator with diesel fumes? I ask because I had to tip the exhaust pipe to vertical on my small diesel utility tractor because the fumes would sicken me. Wouldn’t a tailwind blowing diesel fumes over the rear hood onto the operator of a Groundsmaster be somewhat sickening for the operator? Several GM diesel owners here....what are your experiences with the Diesel engine fumes on these units?
Vvm.

 

[Asymair95]

I have several diesel GMs and have never had a problem. I too am sensitive to diesel fumes, but never have a problem. Only time I really smell anything is when I’m turning around at the end of a row or something.

 

[Xfaxman]

No problems since the exhaust is at the rear and pointed back.

I even routed it to the left side on the loader because of the counterweights and don't smell the fumes:

 

[Volvoman]

Good to know this. My yard area has lots of big trees, so there is pretty much constant circling around them or flower beds, buildings, etc. Not many longer straight stretches here. I guess it might be best to give one a tryout before buying to make sure frequent turns won’t be an issue.

 

[MultiMow]

Hey folks! Been a long time... gotta catch up.

I haven't been able to get on much since my sone was born. Only mowed three times last year, thanks to the drought.

I bought a 328d last year and finally mowed with her today. All I can say is wow... there is a world of difference between my 325 and the 328. The 328 never bogs down and the transmission acts like it's supposed to. I have a problem though... my side discharge deck is rough. I need a new one. Anyone have one for sale? I could kick myself in the backside for selling my old one off the old GM72 (small gearbox). Also, does anyone have a lead for high lift blades? I don't like gator blades, and the standard lift just doesn't discharge as well as I'd like.

Another issue I found was the lift valve guide plate. My 325 had an L-shaped slot for the float position. This makes my 2nd 328 with a straight slot and no catch for the float position. I'm constantly having to push the control forward and press the arm down manually. It creeps up, and when my deck goes over a rise, it stays raised.

 

[Asymair95]

I don’t have a 328, so can’t help on the hyd lift function problem.

As far as finding a deck, there is a guy here selling a batwing deck for a 300 series, but it’s rough, and needs work. There is also a guy that buys all the old machines from golf courses and resells them after fixing them up. He has yards in PA, and NJ. I’m sure he has some parts machines and might be able to find you a deck. I bought a few machines from him, he also delivers.

For blades stick with the toro brand ones. I have a set of Oregon blades for mine and don’t like them as much as the toro. It’s night and day difference with the cut quality.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[MultiMow]

I don’t have a 328, so can’t help on the hyd lift function problem.

As far as finding a deck, there is a guy here selling a batwing deck for a 300 series, but it’s rough, and needs work. There is also a guy that buys all the old machines from golf courses and resells them after fixing them up. He has yards in PA, and NJ. I’m sure he has some parts machines and might be able to find you a deck. I bought a few machines from him, he also delivers.

For blades stick with the toro brand ones. I have a set of Oregon blades for mine and don’t like them as much as the toro. It’s night and day difference with the cut quality.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Already checked with the guy in Jersey. He has a rear discharge for sale. I don't care for them 'cause the loss of efficiency defeats the purpose of owning a diesel. I'll check the Oregon blades. Thanks!

 

[Xfaxman]

Hey folks! Been a long time... gotta catch up.

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Another issue I found was the lift valve guide plate. My 325 had an L-shaped slot for the float position. This makes my 2nd 328 with a straight slot and no catch for the float position. I'm constantly having to push the control forward and press the arm down manually. It creeps up, and when my deck goes over a rise, it stays raised.

My 328 has the straight slot, but there is a detent built into the valve.

With the lift arm pushed down, valve in float, turn the key, after it starts the lift arm will raise until slack is out of lift chain.

While running, push down on the lift arm and it will slowly raise until slack is out of lift chain but it does not raise the deck.

I think it is designed that way so when the lift lever is pulled the deck raises immediately.

 

[MultiMow]

My 328 has the straight slot, but there is a detent built into the valve.

With the lift arm pushed down, valve in float, turn the key, after it starts the lift arm will raise until slack is out of lift chain.

While running, push down on the lift arm and it will slowly raise until slack is out of lift chain but it does not raise the deck.

I think it is designed that way so when the lift lever is pulled the deck raises immediately.

I guess I need to replace the valve. The detent isn't functioning on mine. I thought about robbing the L-plate off my 325. I'm pretty sure I'm going to rob the 4wd shaft anyway. Any tips on rebuilding the 4wd clutch? I don't want the eliminator kit, and I can't find the mfg for the clutch. Any idea who supplied Toro?

 

[Xfaxman]

Sorry, no answers to your questions.

Why don't you want the eliminator kit?