Generator Selection?

[John_Mc]

How so? Its the original charger built into the unit that came with it new..Tell me how to change that I am all ears

I have no idea what model generator you have, or the design of the system. If I had a built in charger that that was routinely boiling the electrolyte out of the battery, I would disable it and just attach a good quality smart charger to the battery (such as one of the BatteryMinder units). NOCO makes some good units as well.

Since it's likely going to be connected all of the time and keep the battery topped off continuously, you don't need a high-amperage unit - it's not as though you are trying to recharge an accidentally discharged car battery in a short amount of time. Something like a BatteryMinder 1500 for less than $50 (or a model 1510, which is electricaly identical to the 1500) with the ring terminals, rather than the battery clips would work. (If you need something more weatherproof, get the model 1215C for about $70).

Disabling the built-in charger is more involved, but I'm sure is doable if you have a schematic.

It also may be that your charger is simply charging at too high a voltage. I'm not sure if there is an adjustment available on that, but something to look in to. Not as good a solution as connecting a smart charger, but might help.

 

[grsthegreat]

It all depends on the generator in question. Some older generac units are quite involved with charging. Using relays, transformers and charging modules. Others have a simple trickle charger. The new ones are built into controller and have near zero issues that i have seen.

The only destroyed batteries ive seen on newer evolution 1&2 units are caused by battery heater malfunctioning.

 

[coobie]

Let me check into it. I can see if theres a work around. Pm me the model and serial number And ill do some research.

17 kw LP with the 2 cly.gt 990 engine. Purchased in 2010.I will try to find the serial number.Been running the wife back and forth for a few medical appts.Thanks..

 

[coobie]

I have no idea what model generator you have, or the design of the system. If I had a built in charger that that was routinely boiling the electrolyte out of the battery, I would disable it and just attach a good quality smart charger to the battery (such as one of the BatteryMinder units). NOCO makes some good units as well.

Since it's likely going to be connected all of the time and keep the battery topped off continuously, you don't need a high-amperage unit - it's not as though you are trying to recharge an accidentally discharged car battery in a short amount of time. Something like a BatteryMinder 1500 for less than $50 (or a model 1510, which is electricaly identical to the 1500) with the ring terminals, rather than the battery clips would work. (If you need something more weatherproof, get the model 1215C for about $70).

Disabling the built-in charger is more involved, but I'm sure is doable if you have a schematic.

It also may be that your charger is simply charging at too high a voltage. I'm not sure if there is an adjustment available on that, but something to look in to. Not as good a solution as connecting a smart charger, but might help.

I believe I stated in my previous post I have a generac 17kw with lp.It would be a cold day in H-ll before I would run a extension cord to it to feed a battery minder.Easier to keep the water filled up in the battery.My battery is 3 years old and I will replace it this year before winter.

 

[grsthegreat]

I believe I stated in my previous post I have a generac 17kw with lp.It would be a cold day in H-ll before I would run a extension cord to it to feed a battery minder.Easier to keep the water filled up in the battery.This. battery is 3 years old and I will replace it this year before winter.

with the serial number and model number, i can find out which charge system you have. i can find out if there is a new trickle minder option from generac available.

 

[coobie]

with the serial number and model number, i can find out which charge system you have. i can find out if there is a new trickle minder option from generac available.

Thanks will try to get that today or tomorrow busier than all get out at the current moment.Thanks again..

 

[grsthegreat]

Thanks will try to get that today or tomorrow busier than all get out at the current moment.Thanks again..

no problem. they should be on a placard on side of firewall. i dont need the engine serial number, but i need the complete unit

 

[Diggin It]

I know you said you don't like the HomeFlex gas pipe, but that's my best option for right now considering copper prices. I'm not ready to buy the generator yet, but I am ready to open the trench for the gas line for other reasons. As I said, I plan on moving the LP tank once it's close to empty and light enough to move. I need to dig this trench to the new location sooner so I can bury some other conduits for other uses. The new tank location would be somewhere between 80 and 100' from the genset location.

I currently have 1/2" copper to the existing tank location in the back yard. I have to check ... it may even be 3/8" and it's a pretty good distance ... 150' or so. That line runs the LP forced air furnace and stove. I know I'll need another regulator though for the genset.

This is all future planning so I really NEED to know if I need 1/2" or 3/4" HomeFlex pipe because I don't want to dig again later.

Charts attached are from HomeFlex and the 13K install manual.

 

[coobie]

no problem. they should be on a placard on side of firewall. i dont need the engine serial number, but i need the complete unit

Will Do I appreciate it.

 

[RoyKing]

The batter tender is wired to the line side of your ATS that way no charging went genset is running.

 

[grsthegreat]

I know you said you don't like the HomeFlex gas pipe, but that's my best option for right now considering copper prices. I'm not ready to buy the generator yet, but I am ready to open the trench for the gas line for other reasons. As I said, I plan on moving the LP tank once it's close to empty and light enough to move. I need to dig this trench to the new location sooner so I can bury some other conduits for other uses. The new tank location would be somewhere between 80 and 100' from the genset location.

I currently have 1/2" copper to the existing tank location in the back yard. I have to check ... it may even be 3/8" and it's a pretty good distance ... 150' or so. That line runs the LP forced air furnace and stove. I know I'll need another regulator though for the genset.

This is all future planning so I really NEED to know if I need 1/2" or 3/4" HomeFlex pipe because I don't want to dig again later.

Charts attached are from HomeFlex and the 13K install manual.

View attachment 667655 View attachment 667656

you need to talk with your propane supplier. At a certain distance they have to upsize underground pipe depending on total BTU of all appliances. Better to know instead of redigging... at 150 feet i have no idea of pipe size.

 

[grsthegreat]

The batter tender is wired to the line side of your ATS that way no charging went genset is running.

Then it wont work. BatterY tender HAS TO RUN WITH GENERATOR running, or battery will fail. There is a large draw on battery during use. Gas solenoid has constant draw. The biggest failures i see, as a service tech , is when generators shut down during a long outage and battery is dead.

Generac systems run off of a circuit within transfer switch and is hooked into the house feed wire. That way charger is being charged whenever house is fed power, either thru utility or thru generator.

 

[Diggin It]

you need to talk with your propane supplier. At a certain distance they have to upsize underground pipe depending on total BTU of all appliances. Better to know instead of redigging... at 150 feet i have no idea of pipe size.

I have no idea what to ask them. Sound dumb, don't I?

 

[grsthegreat]

I have no idea what to ask them. Sound dumb, don't I?

You need to make a list of all gas appliance BTUratings. There listed on each appliances nameplates. Then the btu rating on your generator. Its not hard

 

[Diggin It]

Furnace shows 100,000 and the stove shows 9,000 for each surface burner and 18,000 for the oven, but those are all for NG. They don't show ratings for LP which they've been converted to. No tag on the LP wall/plaque heater, but similar ones on the web show 30,000.

 

[Diggin It]

One thing I don't like is requiring Activation before something will work. Doing it for a warranty or service contract is one thing, but this says it can't be set to Auto Mode if you don't. That's kind of Big Brotherish.

 

[grsthegreat]

One thing I don't like is requiring Activation before something will work. Doing it for a warranty or service contract is one thing, but this says it can't be set to Auto Mode if you don't. That's kind of Big Brotherish.

Not at all, it just sets your warranty. If you dont activate it....there is no warranty. You dont have to activate the wifi option. You can even give a fake email and phone number if your afraid to give that out. But you better give correct address, or no warranty service.

 

[Diggin It]

Dunno. I just see this:



Talked to a local dealer and they're willing to work with me. Said they'd be willing to come out on a service call basis to complete the testing and start-up after I have all the grunt work done. They gave me quotes that are about $400 higher than Lowes base price. I get the 10% off at Lowes, so that knocks another $300+ off. I don't know how much margin these guys have or if they can even come close. I'd really prefer to buy from this small, locally owned business, but my wallet has to make the choice. If they can come close, I might even go with a service agreement with them if it's reasonable. Other thing is that Generac has a promo to extend the warranty to 10 years if you buy from one of the big box chains. That seems like they're shooting their own small dealers in the foot.

 

[grsthegreat]

Dunno. I just see this:

View attachment 667782

Talked to a local dealer and they're willing to work with me. Said they'd be willing to come out on a service call basis to complete the testing and start-up after I have all the grunt work done. They gave me quotes that are about $400 higher than Lowes base price. I get the 10% off at Lowes, so that knocks another $300+ off. I don't know how much margin these guys have or if they can even come close. I'd really prefer to buy from this small, locally owned business, but my wallet has to make the choice. If they can come close, I might even go with a service agreement with them if it's reasonable. Other thing is that Generac has a promo to extend the warranty to 10 years if you buy from one of the big box chains. That seems like they're shooting their own small dealers in the foot.

nope, the same 10 year applies to registered dealers.

But be aware.... GENERAC HAS CANCELLED ALL PROMOTIONS. im not sure if the sales person knows this. Due to the demand and the fact that generators are baclogged 3-4 months, all promotions have been cancelled. Even the big box stores. If you read the fine print, youll see that it ended in may 2020.

Does not matter where you buy it. But some of the free extended warranties REQUIRE you to activate wifi.

Personally, when i was installing these things, i could care who supplied the generator. I made nothing on supplying the unit. It was easier for me if the homeowner supplied them. That being said, if homeowner supplied it i REQUIRED the generator to be uncrated and on the concrete slab prior to my arrival. Reason was if i supply it, i bring my trailer and generator transport cart. But im not hauling that if i dont transport generator.

I made my money on the install and maint side.

 

[Diggin It]

As a dealer, can you match Lowes prices?

They show 3127 for the 13K and 3787 for the 16K. I'm just curious how much room this local dealer has.