k0ua
Epic Contributor
Hey hey! I think I proposed using a 'mini ductor' magnetic induction heater on the drain plug... and I haven't given up on the pallets.
Those things work wonders on frozen nuts and bolts.
Hey hey! I think I proposed using a 'mini ductor' magnetic induction heater on the drain plug... and I haven't given up on the pallets.
No man, I'm familiar with breaker panels. I moved position of one of the breakers so that it's next to the other one, hence they would each be fed by separate lines. Installing a handle tie on them would turn them into a 2-pole 240v 20amp breaker...that was the plan. My issue now is that one of those breakers feeds a circuit with gcfi's on it, and they're upstream of where I want to install the 240v outlet. Jaxs is right, that won't work. That's where I'm at now, a dead end with this idea.
So, my option now is to a) have a dedicated 120v 20 amp outlet, b) if I could fish it through, run another 12 ga wire through the conduit, allowing for a 240v 20 amp outlet, or c) run new conduit with 8 gauge for 40 amp (might as well go for broke at this point).
Ok that is not information that I got from the initial post.
Question, if you are going to pull a new circuit (you say a 12 ga wire ) why not pull a circuit to run the required amperage for the welder? Pull the 10 ga wire for the 30 amp! You and your welder will be much more pleased.
Well yes but you also haven't given up on making your shop profitable. :laughing:Hey hey! I think I proposed using a 'mini ductor' magnetic induction heater on the drain plug... and I haven't given up on the pallets.
Hey we can dream... with Covid and all, there has to be a new business opportunity somewhere. :dance1:Well yes but you also haven't given up on making your shop profitable. :laughing:
So much differentiation in opinions.... Get a electrician and have outlet put in to building codes and avoid having the headaches and may be having to put in a claim to homeowners insurance for the fire.. Or spouse putting in claim for your life insurance because of your electrocution....
Dale
J422 Carbon steel welding rod 1KG diameter 2. 2.5 3.2 4. welding electrode AC DC|welding electrodes|rod weldwelding rod - AliExpress
apparently a Chinese low carbon rod. with a designation of E4303. I have never seen a welding rod with the first two digits so low. The first two digits are the tensile strength of the rod. For instance E7018 means Electrode 70 has as tensile strength of 70,000 lbs Mild steel or A36 is a 36,000 lb tensile strength. This is "garden variety" of ordinary steel, no hardened in any way, just old hot rolled steel. Even the very common E6011 rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 lbs.
welding electrode J422, welding electrode E433
By the way I am a big fan of the E7018 rod. It is a little harder to run than some of the others, and you must knock the "corn" off of the tip of the rod after the first strike to restrike the rod. I do it with a gloved thumb, others have their preferred methods. BUT the strength of the rod is great and welds are very strong, and the bead can be very pretty. For a filling type of rod like patching holes I prefer the easy running E7014, which some people will call "monkey rod" or "idiot rod", because they are so easy to strike and run. I have seen videos of guys striking a 7014 and letting it run itself from the arc force across a plate. They are easy to run and fill well due to the iron powder in the flux. E6013 rod was developed decades ago as a "sheet metal" rod before the advent of the MIG process. In small rod sizes you can do a fair job of welding thin sheet metal with these rods with low heat settings and thin rods.