220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers

   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #71  
Hey hey! I think I proposed using a 'mini ductor' magnetic induction heater on the drain plug... and I haven't given up on the pallets.

Those things work wonders on frozen nuts and bolts.
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #72  
No man, I'm familiar with breaker panels. I moved position of one of the breakers so that it's next to the other one, hence they would each be fed by separate lines. Installing a handle tie on them would turn them into a 2-pole 240v 20amp breaker...that was the plan. My issue now is that one of those breakers feeds a circuit with gcfi's on it, and they're upstream of where I want to install the 240v outlet. Jaxs is right, that won't work. That's where I'm at now, a dead end with this idea. :(

So, my option now is to a) have a dedicated 120v 20 amp outlet, b) if I could fish it through, run another 12 ga wire through the conduit, allowing for a 240v 20 amp outlet, or c) run new conduit with 8 gauge for 40 amp (might as well go for broke at this point).

Ok that is not information that I got from the initial post.
Question, if you are going to pull a new circuit (you say a 12 ga wire ) why not pull a circuit to run the required amperage for the welder? Pull the 10 ga wire for the 30 amp! You and your welder will be much more pleased.
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #73  
Ok that is not information that I got from the initial post.
Question, if you are going to pull a new circuit (you say a 12 ga wire ) why not pull a circuit to run the required amperage for the welder? Pull the 10 ga wire for the 30 amp! You and your welder will be much more pleased.

He already said there isn't enough room in the conduit.
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #74  
Hey hey! I think I proposed using a 'mini ductor' magnetic induction heater on the drain plug... and I haven't given up on the pallets.
Well yes but you also haven't given up on making your shop profitable. :laughing:
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #75  
Well yes but you also haven't given up on making your shop profitable. :laughing:
Hey we can dream... with Covid and all, there has to be a new business opportunity somewhere. :dance1:
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers
  • Thread Starter
#76  
Oh boy oh boy, presents waiting for me when I got home! :cool2:

IMG_20200905_073541.jpg

Came with a few "J422" welding rods. What that is?
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers
  • Thread Starter
#77  
So much differentiation in opinions.... Get a electrician and have outlet put in to building codes and avoid having the headaches and may be having to put in a claim to homeowners insurance for the fire.. Or spouse putting in claim for your life insurance because of your electrocution....

Dale

What I'm doing ain't against code or dangerous. You and Jaxs could go away now, I heard you two enough about how I'm doing everything wrong, and need to hire out. I will say though, in his own "friendly" way, Jaxs did point out about the gfci thing, so I will say thanks for that.

Me personally, when I respond to a question on TBN or elsewhere, I make an effort to fully comprehend what the person is trying to do. I don't read things half-azz and than make assumptions. Nor do I keep pushing my opinion on him, or start questioning his reasons for whatever he's trying to do. Coz...that's his business. But hey, that's just me.

Thanks everybody who contributed here positively, or even negatively if I gained something from it. I'm rolling with Popgadget's suggestion to use the neutral wire from the unused shed circuit to wire the 220v outlet (provided it's not shared with the garage circuit, which may be the case). I'll pop back in here later to update the thread.
 
Last edited:
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #78  
J422 Carbon steel welding rod 1KG diameter 2. 2.5 3.2 4. welding electrode AC DC|welding electrodes|rod weldwelding rod - AliExpress

apparently a Chinese low carbon rod. with a designation of E4303. I have never seen a welding rod with the first two digits so low. The first two digits are the tensile strength of the rod. For instance E7018 means Electrode 70 has as tensile strength of 70,000 lbs Mild steel or A36 is a 36,000 lb tensile strength. This is "garden variety" of ordinary steel, no hardened in any way, just old hot rolled steel. Even the very common E6011 rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 lbs.

welding electrode J422, welding electrode E433

By the way I am a big fan of the E7018 rod. It is a little harder to run than some of the others, and you must knock the "corn" off of the tip of the rod after the first strike to restrike the rod. I do it with a gloved thumb, others have their preferred methods. BUT the strength of the rod is great and welds are very strong, and the bead can be very pretty. For a filling type of rod like patching holes I prefer the easy running E7014, which some people will call "monkey rod" or "idiot rod", because they are so easy to strike and run. I have seen videos of guys striking a 7014 and letting it run itself from the arc force across a plate. They are easy to run and fill well due to the iron powder in the flux. E6013 rod was developed decades ago as a "sheet metal" rod before the advent of the MIG process. In small rod sizes you can do a fair job of welding thin sheet metal with these rods with low heat settings and thin rods.
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers #79  
This little paper might be helpful in understanding the numbers associated with the various rod types out there.

Electrode Identification
 
   / 220v outlet for welder powered by (2) 20 amp breakers
  • Thread Starter
#80  
J422 Carbon steel welding rod 1KG diameter 2. 2.5 3.2 4. welding electrode AC DC|welding electrodes|rod weldwelding rod - AliExpress

apparently a Chinese low carbon rod. with a designation of E4303. I have never seen a welding rod with the first two digits so low. The first two digits are the tensile strength of the rod. For instance E7018 means Electrode 70 has as tensile strength of 70,000 lbs Mild steel or A36 is a 36,000 lb tensile strength. This is "garden variety" of ordinary steel, no hardened in any way, just old hot rolled steel. Even the very common E6011 rod has a tensile strength of 60,000 lbs.

welding electrode J422, welding electrode E433

By the way I am a big fan of the E7018 rod. It is a little harder to run than some of the others, and you must knock the "corn" off of the tip of the rod after the first strike to restrike the rod. I do it with a gloved thumb, others have their preferred methods. BUT the strength of the rod is great and welds are very strong, and the bead can be very pretty. For a filling type of rod like patching holes I prefer the easy running E7014, which some people will call "monkey rod" or "idiot rod", because they are so easy to strike and run. I have seen videos of guys striking a 7014 and letting it run itself from the arc force across a plate. They are easy to run and fill well due to the iron powder in the flux. E6013 rod was developed decades ago as a "sheet metal" rod before the advent of the MIG process. In small rod sizes you can do a fair job of welding thin sheet metal with these rods with low heat settings and thin rods.

K0ua, thanks for those links! That electrode id page is great as well, I printed it out.

About the 7018, do you just buy enough to use up or do you store them in an oven or special container? I don't have any stick welder experience yet other than playing around with my neighbor's buddy's welder he brought over a couple times. Right now I just need to learn on this welder, so I was researching easiest rods to learn with. 7014 was one I read about, and somebody was also writing about 6013.

I got a few project I have planned before winter, is just going to be mild steel, 5/16 and under, or even maybe 1/4 and under.
 

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