Bye, bye irritating turnbucles

   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #11  
The "pin in the hole" type are OEM on my Kubota M6040. They work just fine and are a bit quicker than the twist ones that came on my Ford.
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #12  
The "pin in the hole" type are OEM on my Kubota M6040. They work just fine and are a bit quicker than the twist ones that came on my Ford.

I agree, plus it doesn't come loose like the turnbuckle style.

This telescopic style come standard on most tractors these days.

I've never had any problem finding the right spot and it also prevents the lift arms from bouncing around and hitting the tires with no implement attached.

IMG_20200927_120002.jpg
 
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   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #13  
The "pin in the hole" type are OEM on my Kubota M6040. They work just fine and are a bit quicker than the twist ones that came on my Ford.

Same with my MF 1540. Towards the tractor end, rather than individual holes, there is an elongated hole - maybe 3” long.

Never had any issues putting implements on or centering them.
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #14  
I've never had a problem with my turnbuckles or floppy lift arms. I have a QH. And the turnbuckles attach to the drop-down on the ROPS mount. Of course, I have more than 12" between my tires. :rolleyes:
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #15  
Because the spacing of the holes on the inside slider is slightly different from the ones on the outside tube, very small incremental changes can be made to the lower link position by selecting the correct hole for the pin.

:thumbsup: Didn't know that, so thats how one can get just a little or a lot of adjustment, good info thanks!!!
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #16  
I'd think that it would be difficult to find holes in those that would keep the 3ph tight enough to keep it from swinging. With turnbuckles, you can just tighten them up (and you better; broke the 2 on my 4010 one time when I left them too loose).

Biggest problem with turnbuckles might be to lock them in place. I've only ever used tension cords from one side of them us to the tractor body somewhere.

Ralph
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #17  
I'd think that it would be difficult to find holes in those that would keep the 3ph tight enough to keep it from swinging. With turnbuckles, you can just tighten them up (and you better; broke the 2 on my 4010 one time when I left them too loose).

Biggest problem with turnbuckles might be to lock them in place. I've only ever used tension cords from one side of them us to the tractor body somewhere.

Ralph

You don't really want it very tight. 3 PT is not a perfect linkage setup, quite often the pivot point for the stabilizers is not perfectly aligned with the pivot point for the lift arms. This causes it to bind in certain 3 pt height positions if the turnbuckles are too tight.

On mine with the telescopic style, I get about 1/4" of play and that's exactly how I like to run my 3 pt implements.
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #18  
You don't really want it very tight. 3 PT is not a perfect linkage setup, quite often the pivot point for the stabilizers is not perfectly aligned with the pivot point for the lift arms. This causes it to bind in certain 3 pt height positions if the turnbuckles are too tight.

On mine with the telescopic style, I get about 1/4" of play and that's exactly how I like to run my 3 pt implements.
The turnbuckles on my lower arms are lined up and I keep them snug if not my pto winch will slam back and forth on every bump, thats why I was questioning on how to keep implements from doing that on pinned lower arms.
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #19  
Those turnbuckles have a nut to lock the position on the right hand threads, correct?

Geez I hate having to word my posts without the use of contractions.
 
   / Bye, bye irritating turnbucles #20  
My turnbuckles have lock nuts, I dont think they would stay in the right adjustment without them.
 

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