Got wood?

[dragoneggs]

You had the wrong tool...

Maybe obvious but found this suggestion. What other tools are recommended?

Must Have Tools for Metal Stud Framing

 

[goeduck]

Metal studs on exterior walls will transfer the outside temperatures into the house faster then anything else you can use. For extreme insulation on walls, they are saying that wood transfers too much heat or cold and they are using double walls with a thermal break to stop that transfer. While this does work, I think it's too extreme for what you gain on a wood stud wall. On a metal stud wall, it might be needed.

I had not thought of that but it explains why my interior walls only are steel stud. Exterior walls are wood stud. Excellent insight! :thumbsup:

 

[Ford850]

No offense, but I disagree. Metal stud carpenters know how to work the product; I am much more comfortable, and successful, with metal vs wood. (wood is not my forte ) But then, framing is framing.

Are you disagreeing with the part about cutting more holes in the metal floor joists or the ease in working with steel? What is the correct tool for making these cuts? I'm curious what the pros use on these heavy, wide, floor joists. I would have used a sawzall with a good coarse metal blade to zip through them.

 

[PILOON]

While many use screws to fasten metal studs, there exists special crimping pliers that create notches at the joints.
For cutting 3 bladed snips also works well and can be carried in a tool belt.
Either way you attach metal studding it kind of seems wobbly until the paneling is attached and it then is as steady as a traditional stud wall.

One advantage of metal studding is the fire deterrent feature as well as the pre punched holes for plumbing and electrical.
Might also affect insurance premiums.

It is simply awesome to see an experienced crew make metal stud divisions in commercial buildings.
Add to that a pro mudding and taping crew with bazookas and you'll never want to go back to wood studding and manual plastering.
However it is most effective for large spaces with long wall runs.

Had a friend that needed to build 70 ft of interior wall in his storage facility.
WOW, crappy 2 X 3 studs (read crooked with bark edges) @ $6.00 ea?
1/2 inch particle board @ $20.+?

City had a project that was estimated @ $500K but when they went to tender the bids were all in the 1.5 -2. mil range.
Project was abandoned!

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Are you disagreeing with the part about cutting more holes in the metal floor joists or the ease in working with steel? What is the correct tool for making these cuts? I'm curious what the pros use on these heavy, wide, floor joists. I would have used a sawzall with a good coarse metal blade to zip through them.

We need to establish what we are working with here; Are we talking 25 gauge material (basically recycled beer cans and not worth 2cents) and should never be used.... , 20 gauge EQ"s (basically good for non structural interior walls to hang drywall) I would use tin snips or a good chop saw with a metal blade; fasteners- sharp point framing and drywall screws. 20 gauge structural where your walls may carry a load (kitchen cabinets, etc) then same tin snips or saw, fasteners- self tapping . 16 gauge is for heavy structural, second floor, outside walls with a veneer surface, floor joist, etc. Same chop saw or a portable band saw works well too. The best tool you will need is an impact driver and self tapping screws. The reason metal framing is so fast is everything needed can be carried in a tool belt, for the most part. Oh... don't forget magnetic levels.

 

[fatjay]

I know wood is up, but I'm not sure what the price is for trusses are normal. I just paid $134 for a 24' truss with 10" overhang and a 1:12 pitch, 2x6 legs.

 

[Ford850]

We need to establish what we are working with here; Are we talking 25 gauge material (basically recycled beer cans and not worth 2cents) and should never be used.... , 20 gauge EQ"s (basically good for non structural interior walls to hang drywall) I would use tin snips or a good chop saw with a metal blade; fasteners- sharp point framing and drywall screws. 20 gauge structural where your walls may carry a load (kitchen cabinets, etc) then same tin snips or saw, fasteners- self tapping . 16 gauge is for heavy structural, second floor, outside walls with a veneer surface, floor joist, etc. Same chop saw or a portable band saw works well too. The best tool you will need is an impact driver and self tapping screws. The reason metal framing is so fast is everything needed can be carried in a tool belt, for the most part. Oh... don't forget magnetic levels.

I thought we were talking about fatjay's floor joists. They are 12ga, and too wide for a portable band saw but maybe a large chop saw would work? That's why I was asking, since it seemed like a sawzall would have been my tool of choice. I've never built with steel like he's doing and I'm learning from his garage thread.

 

[MossRoad]

I know wood is up, but I'm not sure what the price is for trusses are normal. I just paid $134 for a 24' truss with 10" overhang and a 1:12 pitch, 2x6 legs.

3 months ago I paid $90 for 24' 4/12 with 24" overhang, and $94 for an end truss.

Today they are $100 and $144 respectively.

Those are 2x4 construction.

 

[Snobdds]

can metal studs be cut on any angle besides a straight cut? I see metal studs used in a lot of modern design buildings with no pitched roofs, they're all flat roofs where angles don't to be cut.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I thought we were talking about fatjay's floor joists. They are 12ga, and too wide for a portable band saw but maybe a large chop saw would work? That's why I was asking, since it seemed like a sawzall would have been my tool of choice. I've never built with steel like he's doing and I'm learning from his garage thread.

I haven't seen that thread. I'll check it out. Thanks