Torque wrenches

[blee03]

I have both Snap-On and HF Icon clicker wrenches in 3/8 and 1/2 drive plus a Blackhawk in 3/4 drive. The HF Icon wrenches are as accurate as the Snap-On ones and I tested both on a torque master to find out. Actually the Icon wrenches are a tad more accurate than the Snap On ones.

Not the cheapo HF Pittsburg clickers, the ICON clickers. The Icon's and the Snap-On's side by side are identical, except for the laser etched name. Adjustment is identical, feel is identical but one thing about the Icon I like better and that is the Icon ratchet head is finer than the Snap On head. Of course both torque left hand and right hand, I need that for setting bearing preload.

Best part is the Icon 1/2 drive is under 125 bucks every day. The Snap On is north of 450 bucks. No brainer choice with me. I won't even get into what my Blackhawk 3/4 drive dial wrench cost. You'd faint. Let just say around a grand give or take. I need a 3/4 high torque wrench as well.

I'll sell you my snap On for 300 bills if you want it. Has a recent certification on it too.

Ya Ive seen some great reviews for the 1/2 inch Icon Torque wrench so I bought one a while back,
Its been great.

Checked my two out one ok the other a Craftsman torque ok in one direction but ratchet broke so it won稚 work opposite direction. Going to stop by Lowe痴 and see if since it痴 a mechanical failure not a torque issue if they will replace it under the craftsman lifetime warranty. Then going to look at the Harbor Freight ICON 1/2 in drive wrench . Anyone have experience with this unit.

Ya Ive had one for about a year maybe, no problems and works great
I would recommend it

 

[5030]

SE Michigan, we must be neighbors. Let me guess, your NH came from J&R.

 

[Toyboy]

Hate to bust your bubble but...

OTC = made in Taiwan
Proto = made in China
JSA = made in Taiwan

Duh.....

Hate you bust YOUR bubble. All of my torque wrenches are of 1995 or earlier vintage, Made in USA

 

[blee03]

SE Michigan, we must be neighbors. Let me guess, your NH came from J&R.

Ya I’m in Almont
Bought the NH from my good friends/neighbors but it originally came from New Holland of Flint

 

[Streetcar]

Not all torque specifications are for dry torque. Wet torque is more reliable indicator for tension on bolt

"Clickers" are probably the most popular because you can use them blindfolded; they are also the most likely to go out of calibration. Dial indicators require sight of the dial, although many have settable needles so you can see what torque you applied above the setting. Beam type require direct sight as the torque is applied so they are the least convenient. However they do not go out of calibration. If the beam is stressed beyond it yield point, it will acquire a "set" and not indicate zero when unloaded, so it is very easy to check.

My frugal yankee calibration tool is a 3/8-drive 3/8 square socket and an old Craftsman beam-type wrench, although if it told me my clicker was out of calibration, I do not know how to repair the clicker. I have also used a 50-lb. spring, fish scale on a 5' length of pipe over a 15" crescent wrench to get the 200+ ft-lbs required for spring shackles and have used smaller spring scales on combination wrenches for smaller values, but never calibrated the spring scales.

If specifications call for exacting torque measurements, remember the spec is for "dry" fasteners. Grease, oil, never-seize, and even thread-lockers provide lubrication so the exact setting will be over-torqued. (Rule of thumb is 20% less torque on lubed fasteners.) "Re-checking" the torque without first backing off the fastener also overtorques.

 

[jaydee325]

Not all torque specifications are for dry torque. Wet torque is more reliable indicator for tension on bolt

But, you need to subtract 30% from the clean dry torque value to prevent fatigue or outright snapping the bolt off. If you don't believe me, just google wet torque vs dry torque. Also, read the article I linked above.

The generally acceptable guidance is only lube if specified in the technical manual.

 

[5030]

Ya I知 in Almont
Bought the NH from my good friends/neighbors but it originally came from New Holland of Flint

You are way north of me. I'm 15 miles north of the Ohio line off 23.

 

[5030]

Hate you bust YOUR bubble. All of my torque wrenches are of 1995 or earlier vintage, Made in USA

Not busting mine at all. I'm referencing new manufacture, not antiques.

 

[Toyboy]

Not busting mine at all. I'm referencing new manufacture, not antiques.

LOL, they don't get much use and I'm lucky to have a friend that owns a garage that the tool truck stops. When he gets his checked he'll add mine in also.
I'll take my "antiques" as you refer to them over any new Chinese copy's

 

[Peter 315]

Not busting mine at all. I'm referencing new manufacture, not antiques.

They still make new torque wrenches made in the usa...