B26 repair of broken u-joint on front drive shaft at HST output

[Username Taken]

If I pulled the front axel forward the drive shaft should come out completely. If broken and I could learn if the U-joint broke or fell off which would allow you to know if the spline Shaft could be damaged?

I would think that if the U-Joint bearing fell apart and it was beating the daylights out of the yoke, you would have heard it.

 

[dfkrug]

If I pulled the front axel forward the drive shaft should come out completely. If broken and I could learn if the U-joint broke or fell off which would allow you to know if the spline Shaft could be damaged?

The MFWD driveshaft on the B26 looks about the same as what I have on the B20. You can just remove the front axle assembly, as you said, and slide the shaft forward and out. You should be able to see inside the tunnel a little better, plus determine the health of your shaft.

The shaft uses a sliding seal, with brass bearing. I replaced mine.

 

[SamWalton]

I purchased the shop manual for $82. Some of the pictures are helpful. The dealer quoted 11 hours at $100 and the U-joint for $1200. The front axel can be removed to avoid splitting the tractor but a large hole must be cut out to replace the U-joint. Pics attached Any options please. Thanks

 

[SamWalton]

More pics

 

[SamWalton]

The MFWD driveshaft on the B26 looks about the same as what I have on the B20. You can just remove the front axle assembly, as you said, and slide the shaft forward and out. You should be able to see inside the tunnel a little better, plus determine the health of your shaft.

The shaft uses a sliding seal, with brass bearing. I replaced mine.

I put a flexible camera in to look but it was not a wide angle. I didn't get any clear evidence other than it looks broken and the shaft is no longer connected.

 

[dfkrug]

Are you going to take this on yourself, Sam? A smooth and flat floor indoors is a necessity, IMO.

If you can avoid splitting, that is good. You may not be able to avoid removing the "main frame". This is the part that adds so much work vs. a normal CUT.

 

[ruffdog]

Well Sam, being that the coupler/yoke/joint/shaft is broken or damaged, I would be leaning towards splitting the tractor. If you remove the front axle and find there is damage back at the HST you need to fix, you will have to install the axle and split it anyways.

 

[SamWalton]

Are you going to take this on yourself, Sam? A smooth and flat floor indoors is a necessity, IMO.

If you can avoid splitting, that is good. You may not be able to avoid removing the "main frame". This is the part that adds so much work vs. a normal CUT.

Unfortunately this repair will be outside on gravel. I believe the front axel may need to be remove to provide room for the repaired axel to get between it's connections. It may be possible to remove the frame mounting at the u-joint closer to the axel and flex to shorten the distance. Cutting a large opening at the HST plate will allow the pin installation to secure the u-joint.

 

[SamWalton]

Well Sam, being that the coupler/yoke/joint/shaft is broken or damaged, I would be leaning towards splitting the tractor. If you remove the front axle and find there is damage back at the HST you need to fix, you will have to install the axle and split it anyways.

You are correct. I should get a good view to assess damage if I can remove the broken drive

 

[Username Taken]

Does the driveshaft have a slip joint to allow for suspension travel?