amartha
New member
Don't do it, she will be a leather bag with no bottom.
The big island, and you'd need 4wd to make it from the orchard to go playVery Tempting! Which island? As long as it's not all work and no play.
A 4020 seems way too big for orchard work. What does the used tractor market have to offer in Hawaii?
Macadamia nutsBy the way, what are you growing in your orchard?
MMMMmmmmm!!!Macadamia nuts
An absolute money pit!Hey everybody,
I've got a big question about my '68 4020, but please forgive the backstory first. . .
The wife and I just bought an orchard that hasn't seen any attention in years, and it came with a house, and a bunch of broken down equipment, including the aforementioned JD. We desperately need a tractor and shredder to start revitalizing the orchard (but we're on a budget), and I'm trying to figure out what's the best way to get there. Should I try to sell the 4020 as (rusty) parts and buy something running, or would it be worth it to fix it and buy a brush hog? Someone in the long forgotten past took it apart, and somehow lost the crankshaft, don't know what else grew legs in the meantime. To make matters even more interesting, we live in a place where everything rusts, and everything needs to be shipped in at high cost, but it's beautiful, and everything grows here. I'm handy, I weld, and do automotive repair, but I've never worked on a diesel, or any heavy hydraulics, but I've got friends around who have and can help. I'll attach photos, any and all advice or derision is welcome.
Interesting question....where we live Deere 20 series are used daily. Parts are readily available and "easy" to fix, compared to 'electronic tractors'. The 6 cylinder engine that Deere used was quite popular and used in other applications. What I would suggest it to get a short block; long block or complete engine replacement. Saves on so many ways. You can keep the core for parts. The 4020 was one of most popular tractor of its time. It was very versatile and fuel efficient for 90hp.Hey everybody,
I've got a big question about my '68 4020, but please forgive the backstory first. . .
The wife and I just bought an orchard that hasn't seen any attention in years, and it came with a house, and a bunch of broken down equipment, including the aforementioned JD. We desperately need a tractor and shredder to start revitalizing the orchard (but we're on a budget), and I'm trying to figure out what's the best way to get there. Should I try to sell the 4020 as (rusty) parts and buy something running, or would it be worth it to fix it and buy a brush hog? Someone in the long forgotten past took it apart, and somehow lost the crankshaft, don't know what else grew legs in the meantime. To make matters even more interesting, we live in a place where everything rusts, and everything needs to be shipped in at high cost, but it's beautiful, and everything grows here. I'm handy, I weld, and do automotive repair, but I've never worked on a diesel, or any heavy hydraulics, but I've got friends around who have and can help. I'll attach photos, any and all advice or derision is welcome.
Tractor support/parts issues are very different between Wisconsin and the big island of Hawaii.Interesting question....where we live Deere 20 series are used daily. Parts are readily available and "easy" to fix, compared to 'electronic tractors'. The 6 cylinder engine that Deere used was quite popular and used in other applications. What I would suggest it to get a short block; long block or complete engine replacement. Saves on so many ways. You can keep the core for parts. The 4020 was one of most popular tractor of its time. It was very versatile and fuel efficient for 90hp.
So why bother just buy a long block or even a complete engine,I'm going to reiterate IF ENGINE ROD/MAIN BRG CAPS AREN'T correctly marked/identified Forgotten Orchard can't SUCCESSFULLY REBUILD present ENGINE without some unknown added expenses. It would be an eye/wallet opening experience to spend the time/$$$$ to get that engine running & a rod or main brg FAIL and a large hole appeared in the side of the engine block!!!![]()
I was replying to the posters that were stating rebuild original engine. After one gets engine operating there are other gremlins such as non-operating hyd's or drivetrain that could possibly raise their heads. $5900 + 4020 salvage would make a good down payment on a tractor better suited for an orchard. Several months ago I sold a nice operating JD 2040 for $5000. This 2040 had a FEL that was designed for a smaller tractor that was ugly!!!!So why bother just buy a long block or even a complete engine,
JD404D4010LB - For John Deere LONG BLOCK, Remanufactured
Remanufactured Bare Block John Deere 7810 6081 | eBay
"Aw... come on man"!I'd choose a JD 4020 powered by LPG quicker than a 4020 gasoline. If powershift trans shifts correctly through all gears I'd choose that trans over a SR trans. I have zero desire to own a 8N with trans driven pto & no live hyd's.
I do not disagree!Granted many/many 1000's of Ford 2N/9N & 8N tractors were sold NEW BUT with the introduction of many newer compact tractors with """live pto/live hyd's/power steering""" the aforementioned tractors have outlived their usefulness as far as I'm concerned