Min tractor size for repairing long gravel driveway with potholes?

[JWR]

Reading back over all the posts I have a couple of comments: 1) I really like the B2650 Kubota & would buy one if and when I ever get rid of my B2150's. Load the rear tires and you will have plenty of oomph for what you describe. 2) Depends on your pocketbook as does everything but 'bigger is better' in most cases. Are you planning on a cab? In the Albany area snow removal is a happier chore with a cab but it costs not only dollars but I don't like being closed in for 90% of what I do. 3) The landplane has to be the way to go. I have a box blade with teeth and it would drive me nuts without an hydraulic top link. That brings up the remotes: If you afford it, get something with a couple of remotes as the other guy said. These open so many possibilities. I would never want to do without my hyd toplink ever again for example. With that big a place you may want a FEL and grapple to remove downed limbs, trees, etc. which also means you need remotes. 4) As another guy asked -- how much are you mowing? With something like a B2650 you have the option of a 5' belly mower but with the larger machines you do not. By tyhe way how many acres do you have total and is there much besides mowing, driveway maint and snow ? 5) I forgot -- the sloped section of the drive -- 10 deg is not too steep,abut an 18% slope. It does mean you absolutely want a 4WD for that and many other reasons. If you use a snow blower then a creeper gear (or HST) is called for.

Many variables ! Have fun and keep us voyers posted to see what you decide.

 

[joea99]

I just bought a house with a 600' long gravel driveway near Albany, NY. I'm looking for a used tractor that will be utilized for snowblowing, general loader use, and a box blade for the driveway maintenance. It's seeming like even a glorified lawn tractor would handle the snow blowing and probably our loader use. Though, i'm having a tough time determining how much tractor hp/weight would be needed for handling the box blade. There is a single hill that is roughly a 10° grade which may increase the size needs? The former owner had a new holland TC33, though i'm questioning if one that large is truly necessary for the tasks at hand.

Anyone have any tips on how to size a tractor for a box blade? I'm not too concerned about blade width/passes, biggest concern is simply being able to pull the rippers without losing traction. Just arbitrarily picking a brand here, but would the kubota bx subCompact line be capable or would the compact B line be necessary?

Here's an aerial, though not sure it has much bearing, but i suppose it makes the post more fun?

I have a gravel drive that frequently washes out in serious storms. About an hour south of you.

I mulled over a land leveler or box blade for some time, and finally opted for a box blade as it could perform more tasks.

Went with a Woods 54 inch unit as it was all that was available, in stock, within 200 miles of me and thought I could not wait 12-14 weeks for an EA unit. So far, it has worked a charm to "fix" the washouts after a couple of serious storms. Also working more or less as expected (still learning how) to fix/reduce issues causing the washouts. I do not have hydraulic top or side links but am considering such. So far I just find it inconvenient, but it does help my conditioning.

All in all, a land leveler would not have fit the need, but, I may end up getting one down the road. So to speak.

BTW, I have never used the rippers for the road/drive way, finding them problematic there. I have used them in other areas where I want to rip deeper. THAT is one area where I fault the Woods unit. It is a PITA to adjust the rippers with the pin setup, AND, it is impossible to store the 2 center rippers on the box as the center mount triangle gets in the way, I have to store them off the machine.

 

[LittleBill21]

it is impossible to store the 2 center rippers on the box as the center mount triangle gets in the way, I have to store them off the machine.

same with the land plane, i have a 5ft, they have to come off as well

 

[sackrates]

My driveway is 1/4 mile long. I use a BX2680 with a landpride box scraper. Works great, only took about 4 passes this spring and I plan on doing it again in the fall. I thought I was going to need gravel before I started. Filled in the pot holes and redistributed the gravel to the point I did not need more.

 

[fried1765]

I just want to say when you are looking at gravel driveway maintenance you might want to consider a land leveler (aka grading scraper) in addition to a box blade. It is way easier to use and gets outstanding results.
View attachment 707585
The relatively short blades on the scraper collect material quickly and then the small stuff floats and pours over the top of the rear blade in a nice even layer. When you hit a dip or pothole the larger stones which stay at the bottom of the blades drop into the holes. My driveway has never been this smooth.

Of course, I am not sure I have seen one of these smaller than 6ft so it will take a heavier tractor.

All true......if you want a FLAT driveway!

 

[TractorGuy]

I suggested 8 ft blade as in grader blade. Something you can angle and still cover the tracks of a 50 HP cab tractor. This will enable him to crown the road or pitch the angle for proper drainage.

The mention of snow is the reason I suggested a cab.

If the budget doesn't allow for it then it doesn't. If you can afford it might as well have what you need to do the work in comfort.

 

[JJT]

I'm in the snow belt about an hour west of you, with a similar sized gravel driveway. I've made due with a Kubota L3710 for the past 23 years. It's a 37 hp tractor, with a HST transmission. I use a 6' box scraper, 8' york rake and 78" snowblower. You'll need 4wd if the rippers are lowered, but 37 hp can pull the 6' box with all the rippers fully deployed, with a full box of gravel.

I'd love to have a little bigger tractor and certainly wouldn't want anything smaller. I also have a 6' brush hog and 6' tiller, each gets used at least 20 - 40 hours a year.

 

[LouNY]

Many people on here will disagree with this but many times an 80-125 hp 2wd farm tractor with chains will do everything you need to in your driveway.
My driveway is twice as steep and it was done with 55-60 hp two wheel drive tractors for many years.
An Oliver 1550 and a IH 574.

A 2wd with good chains and weight can do the job.

 

[K5lwq]

Many people on here will disagree with this but many times an 80-125 hp 2wd farm tractor with chains will do everything you need to in your driveway.
My driveway is twice as steep and it was done with 55-60 hp two wheel drive tractors for many years.
An Oliver 1550 and a IH 574.
View attachment 708105

View attachment 708106

A 2wd with good chains and weight can do the job.

The only reason anyone would disagree with this Lou is they have not used a heavy 2 wheel drive tractor. Most of our farming was done with 2 wheel drive and we pulled some serious stuff with them like you I am sure.

The small tractors I have today are 4WD but I hardly ever use it. Obviously I would have to for snow, but they still are very productive in 2 wheel drive.

 

[Hay Dude]

Didn’t read all responses, but I would buy an older, cheaper, heavier tractor and put a 7’-8’ blade on it instead of a modern, expensive, complex one that’s lighter with a 5’ blade.
Weight and size seem to go largely unheralded, but that combination gets the work done fast and simple.
A wider, heavier blade does a nicer job with less passes and will do a nice snowplow job, too.
Plus ya get the fun factor of some bigger HP