Kubota B2910 Not Starting with Ignition Key

[Shmallory0]

Hello all!

I've been having trouble with my B2910, and the key is not turning the starter solenoid on.

650 hours

I ran the tractor for a few hours, and then turned it off near the house to go run in and grab some chains. Came back, and it would not start. Dash Lights did come on though when the key is turned (Engine Oil Pressure, Electrical Charge, Glow Plug Indicator).

I got to working on it, and tried to jump the tractor, same problems.
I took the battery to the parts store, and it is good.
I took the starter out and had the dealership test it. All good.
I tried swapping relay switches, and it didn't change anything.

I started trying to read some electric readings on the relays, and accidently started the tractor by key with the multimeter in two of the 4 prong holes of the starter relay????

Finally bought a remote starter cable, and am able to start and operate the tractor.
I still can't turn it on with the key, and now only the glow plug indicator comes on when the key is turned. I also have no fuel or temperature readings. RPM guage still good for some reason.

Ideally I'd like to have the tractor starting as it should with a key. Any tips? Safety Switches?

 

[CoyPatton]

Since it starts with a remote starter switch kit, my 1st though is the safety switches that are often in the ignition switch to starter circuit. With the remote starter switch, you are bypassing all if the safety switches.
I would probably start with the neutral safety switch as lots of issues are reported going bad and shifting to be out of alignment.
Best of luck to you.
Loss of dash lights is likely due to blowing a fuse while you were testing items.

 

[/pine]

Have you looked at the wiring?..it sounds like it could be chewed wires ??

 

[Roadworthy]

I'm voting for safety switches as well. Be sure PTO is disengaged, clutch depressed, and you're sitting in the seat.

 

[Thomas]

I start with seat seat safety switch....will be interesting your cure.

 

[Shmallory0]

Since it starts with a remote starter switch kit, my 1st though is the safety switches that are often in the ignition switch to starter circuit. With the remote starter switch, you are bypassing all if the safety switches.
I would probably start with the neutral safety switch as lots of issues are reported going bad and shifting to be out of alignment.
Best of luck to you.
Loss of dash lights is likely due to blowing a fuse while you were testing items.

Thank you for the fuse comment! I had not thought of that. I kept thinking I put something back together wrong.
I'll try the neutral safety switch first. I've had some problems going from Medium HST to Neutral sometimes, maybe I triggered it sometime while having to shift hard.

Pine I'll look at wiring next if a safety switch isn't the issue.

 

[orezok]

I had a similar problem with my B7800, an almost identical tractor. It would only start if I kicked the rocker pedal back and forth several times. There is a ball bearing that centers the rocker safety switch that disintegrated. Apparently this is somewhat common. You have to remove the floor pans to get to it and it looks like it can’t be changed. You have to grind a larger opening in the slot to remove it.

Pull a snap ring and it slides right off. You can see my bearing is missing balls.

 

[Henro]

Just something to keep in mind.

I have a B2910 also. I have read that some of the later models have different wiring than my workshop manual shows, and include an OPC module (Operator Presence Controller).

A give away is if the B2910 has a seat switch or switches. I think this holds true for the B7800 as well, but not sure. My b2910 does not have the OPC or switches under the seat.

 

[orezok]

Just something to keep in mind.

I have a B2910 also. I have read that some of the later models have different wiring than my workshop manual shows, and include an OPC module (Operator Presence Controller).

A give away is if the B2910 has a seat switch or switches. I think this holds true for the B7800 as well, but not sure. My b2910 does not have the OPC or switches under the seat.

My 7800 had both an OPC and a second switch that allowed PTO operation by tilting the seat forward. Unfortunately (LOL) both went away when I added a suspension seat.

 

[Keoke]

Hi, since the fuel and temp gauge don’t work as well I would look for B+ going to or from ign switch.
Look at fuse marked gauges or instruments.
Safety switches are usually wired in series between start relay/solenoid and ignition sw.
An open in this safety circuit should not effect gas and temp gauges.

Lot’s of luck

 

[Shmallory0]

Fuse was burnt out on the one for the dash fuse. Put a new one in and the panel works now.

I haven't torn the tractor apart yet, but how would one tell if a safety switch is not working properly. I am able to reach 2 of them, and compressing the button. I assume there should be a click, but both don't really make an audible noise.

tl;dr - How do I check if the safety switches work?

 

[mini14]

Jumper wire BTW the 2 contacts.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Did you definitely eliminate the switch at the clutch pedal as NOT being your problem? I had that one work loose on mine once and had to simply pull it back into the housing and tighten the retaining nut so the clutch pedal would depress it adequately. It's right out there where you can see it and just can't tell that the plunger doesn't quite close the switch.

On most any of these switches, you can just disconnect them and take a bent piece of wire to jump across the terminals to see if that resolves the problem.

If not the clutch, there are 2 PTO switches (rear and mid-PTO levers).

My seat switch has been disconnected since I got it, so not sure if that has to be "closed" in order for it to start or not, but it's super easy to jump across that one in order to check it too.

 

[Shmallory0]

A year and a half later, and I finally got it fixed! The first time I tried to fix was before winter in 2022, and I only tested the 2 safety switches under the seat (PTO, and Neutral safety switches). I did this by switching them out with a new safety switch I picked up at the Kubota dealership, and there was no fix.

This weekend I finally did a teardown, and it ended up being the clutch switch, that was not pressed in deep enough, when the clutch was pressed. The original safety switch was functioning properly after adjusting it down.

A few notes:

3 Safety Switches (at least the 5T057-42230 part #):
PTO, Neutral, and Clutch

All 3 safety switches, must be compressed to start with key.

The instrument panel, dash plastic, steering wheel, and hood are very difficult to remove without a manual. Kubota really screwed the pooch on this. Lot's of yanking, and wiggling that should be much easier on a tractor. I get why they do it on cars to make them look pretty, but there were many bolts that required universal socket joints.

I will concede to Kubota that all the bolts had the nuts welded to the metal, which eased my mind on losing them.

The clutch safety switch can be seen from the bottom the tractor, but it is much easier to remove, and adjust by removing the hood and orange metal (they're connected together). I really should have recorded for you all, because there were no tutorials on YouTube, but hopefully it will be quite sometime before I have to dig into the tractor again.

AND FINALLY make sure to connect all the starter wiring back properly after you've been starting with a remote switch for a 1.5 years. I forgot to connect the little solenoid wire, and that probably wasted an hour or so.

Battery light is still on while operating???

Good luck out there y'all, and Thank you for the help on this thread.

Safety Switch part on Amazon.com with part numbers (5T057-42230) etc.:

https://www.amazon.com/FridayParts-5T057-42230-5T05742230-Compatible-Tractor/dp/B09KRM94WT/ref=asc_df_B09KRM94WT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=647190753081&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18320097788380513187&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026679&hvtargid=pla-1952569552971&psc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhJukBhBPEiwAniIcNc8G9Cp1Y7KBCcojTsN8g2Mg22uQns1jwpEropOf74VK2_IMbEe7-xoCVYUQAvD_BwE#customerReviews

 

[Shmallory0]

Just something to keep in mind.

I have a B2910 also. I have read that some of the later models have different wiring than my workshop manual shows, and include an OPC module (Operator Presence Controller).

A give away is if the B2910 has a seat switch or switches. I think this holds true for the B7800 as well, but not sure. My b2910 does not have the OPC or switches under the seat.

Mine did not appear to have any OPC safety switches, or "modifications" to remove said switches.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Well, at least you found it. As mentioned above, this was exactly the same problem that I had with mine. The clutch was depressing the switch button but not quite enough to close the circuit. Just needed adjustment.

Did you say that your BATTERY light is now on all the time when it's running? When mine did that, the voltage regulator was fried. In fact, it got hot and started smoking while I was using it. I wonder if you've shorted it out while swapping wiring around.

I bought a cheap one off of Amazon and installed it. It worked but got hot and went up in smoke within a couple days. Then I bought the official KUBOTA part and replaced it and it's been fine for a few years now. (The cheap knockoff looked IDENTICAL right down to the markings in the heat-sink casting metal.)

 

[Shmallory0]

Well, at least you found it. As mentioned above, this was exactly the same problem that I had with mine. The clutch was depressing the switch button but not quite enough to close the circuit. Just needed adjustment.

Did you say that your BATTERY light is now on all the time when it's running? When mine did that, the voltage regulator was fried. In fact, it got hot and started smoking while I was using it. I wonder if you've shorted it out while swapping wiring around.

I bought a cheap one off of Amazon and installed it. It worked but got hot and went up in smoke within a couple days. Then I bought the official KUBOTA part and replaced it and it's been fine for a few years now. (The cheap knockoff looked IDENTICAL right down to the markings in the heat-sink casting metal.)

You got a link to that part? or copy paste the exact name on amazon?

 

[CH4Ohio]

You got a link to that part? or copy paste the exact name on amazon?

Kubota B2910HSD (Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd) Parts Diagrams

It’s the “regulator”. Pretty easy install. Goes behind the dash panel. There are diagnostics recommended but I never could get a definite result. In my case it got hot and smoked and nearly caught fire.

I just pulled this up quick. Verify that this fits your serial number etc. in case there’s a serial number break.

I’d suggest getting the kubota part. I wasted time and money with the cheaper part. It looked identical but it also started smoking after a couple days.

Good luck.

 

[CH4Ohio]

Kubota B2910HSD (Hydrostatic Transmission, 4wd) Parts Diagrams

It’s the “regulator”. Pretty easy install. Goes behind the dash panel. There are diagnostics recommended but I never could get a definite result. In my case it got hot and smoked and neatly caught fire.

View attachment 809622
I just pulled this up quick. Verify that this fits your serial number etc. in case there’s a serial number break.

I’d suggest getting the kubota part. I wasted time and money with the cheaper part. It looked identical but it also started smoking after a couple days.

Good luck.

I thought that link would take you to the exact page. Look under “electrical” and then under “switch”. There are two pages and both show the “regulator”.

 

[stephanadams]

I would probably start with the neutral safety switch as lots of issues are reported going bad and shifting to be out of alignment.

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