Xfaxman
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2013
- Messages
- 12,922
- Location
- Guthrie, OK
- Tractor
- Toolcat 5610 G - Bobcat V417 - TORO+Loader
Just trying to educate people about other machines
It's very definitely 'other'. If I ever need a new tractor, they'll be on my list.
Just trying to educate people about other machines
This is all spot on. I too maintained roads for the county road and bridge for a few years right out of high school.Washboard is usually at intersections where traffic speed changes dramatically and/or on steep inclines where wheel slippage gets them started.
The OP's problem is blade chatter.
Interesting to read all the posts and theories. All must be taken with a grain of salt. My roadbed type isn't like the OP's or like most of the posters. We should always consider that. What works for me might not work for the OP.
I've maintained 16,000 miles of gravel roads in NW Missouri over the past 32 years. But I don't know how to maintain his Texas road. I know theories and can offer suggestions that would work for me.
My first is to do the maintenance when the roadbed is damp. In the pic the roadbed is wayyyy too dry.
Interesting discussion though.
A good point. Problem is the top link adjustment probably won't change the pitch enough.I'm certainly not an expert on this, (I've done a bit of raking but not much with any back blade or box blade), but could the pitch of the blade be part of the problem? You would adjust that with the center link
Box blades are hard to master, and like you point out, the learning curve is somewhat counter intuitive.A good point. Problem is the top link adjustment probably won't change the pitch enough.
Using a modern grader I'd roll the blade all the way forward which would cause the cutting edge to be trailing rather than leading. That would let it slide over the rocks etc., and fill the low spots with the loose material.