How would you fall this?

[Little Red Tractor]

I sort of like the high-explosive option, myself.

 

[Root Cause]

tannerite and a .17 hmr would be the most fun way and probably fastest, and cheapest too.

 

[Tony H]

Your first post makes sense. Maybe, put a bigger notch. IT WILL JUMP BACK UP as you cut your way toward the rootball. As you cut toward the ball you will feel it getting light and ready to go. Start cutting smaller pieces, if the notch doesn't cause the break, we hope it stands up slower.
Make a small notch and keep making it bigger, you don't want to pinch the saw.

 

[Jac65]

How would you fall this?​

I would just pick it up: The Tallest Heaviest Tree That I Have Put On The Burn Pile, 42', 18.5" DBH
View attachment 748994
View attachment 748992

And take it to the burn pile:
View attachment 748993

Nice piece of equipment, just a bit pricey for my budget!

 

[newbury]

I sort of like the high-explosive option, myself.

Maybe get the National Guard to hit it with napalm?

 

[jyoutz]

I wouldn't even mess with that tree. It's just too dangerous. This is where I'd pay someone with either an excavator or big equipment willing to take the risk.

A good faller could do this. Loggers do it all the time in the woods after a blowdown event. But most of us aren’t at their level of skill.

 

[ScubaJonL]

First fill in the hole behind the root ball so the tree won't stand back up.
Then cut on the berm so the top falls to the ground.

DEFINITELY THIS!!! It can only help by removing some of the dangerous and unpredictable potential energy of the system. Knock the rootball soil back into the hole.

Good luck!

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

There is a series of very good chainsaw how to do it safely videos on YouTube, the BC Fallers Series by British Columbia’s version of OSHA.

They have a video on extreme learners. Which is what this is, a very extreme leaner. Watch it and pay attention to what they are teaching. And it will guide you through how to do it safely.

basically a shallow wedge out of the bottom. Then rotate in from the center of the high side, leaving an intact strip, to hold the tension, and then cut out the strip a little at a time, stopping to look and listen. At the first sign of movement or sound of cracking wood, dropp the saw and beat feet.

 

[CalG]

There is a series of very good chainsaw how to do it safely videos on YouTube, the BC Fallers Series by British Columbia’s version of OSHA.

They have a video on extreme learners. Which is what this is, a very extreme leaner. Watch it and pay attention to what they are teaching. And it will guide you through how to do it safely.

basically a shallow wedge out of the bottom. Then rotate in from the center of the high side, leaving an intact strip, to hold the tension, and then cut out the strip a little at a time, stopping to look and listen. At the first sign of movement or sound of cracking wood, dropp the saw and beat feet.

Those instructional videos have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the original post situation.

A tree with an upset rootball is NOT a leaner.

The rootball is one event, the tree trunk and top, quite another.

I find this "reference" and suggestion "off the mark" in a strong way.

 

[JRH02]

I sort of like the high-explosive option, myself.

This is actually about the only practical use I'd have for tannerite.

 

[Xfaxman]

Nice piece of equipment, just a bit pricey for my budget!

Paid $52k twelve years ago, dealer delivered 9-29-2010:

It has been worth the purchase price, there is no way I could have rented machines or paid someone to do what I have done with it for twelve years for less money.

 

[ArlyA]

Gee whiz, he needs a sawyer with some safety training, not material handler. Judging from the pics he's posted, it appears to be doable.

 

[Diggin It]

And - the tree is about 2.5 - 3' over the path there... your pixel math is off becasue the bottom line is "high" because I didn't mow the 5-6' tall grass down - so you are to the top of the grass - not the ground. If the limb infront of the target you see wasn't there - I could drive under this with the L4760 - and not be remotely close to the trunk.

So why is it necessary to do anything? Nip off that one limb and be happy you have a custom sample of Nature's art.

Mow around it as needed.

 

[DieselBound]

I'm no expert, but I have limited experience with downed trees with root balls AND with cottonwood.

First: chain around and above cuts in large sections of the trunk as cottonwoods, being heavy and wet, will blow apart- very unpredictable; the chain will keep the above-cut whole, maintain enough integrity for maintaining a hinge. Absolutely do this if deciding to cut down toward the base (rather than cutting top-down).

Second: cutting from the top end and cutting smaller pieces will tend to minimize the speed in which the root ball will/could re-right itself. (I recently cut a couple of hemlock trees that were growing out of an old cedar stump- TWO trunks; the root ball slowly started tipping back as I cut more of the trunks, and finally just eased its way back into its original upright position.) For the OP's situation this isn't a good approach due to the trunk top being well elevated off the ground.

If it were me, given that (in my neck of the woods) cottonwood is worthless , I'd do as others suggest and let nature take its course. MAYBE do a bit of a cut near the base (cut from the top and a notch on the bottom) and allow gravity and nature to bring the trunk down*. The BIG issue with this tree is that its top isn't resting on the ground (as my hemlocks were), that it has a greater tendency to roll back: if the top is on the ground there is a possibility that the root ball won't roll back, that it 'would roll over (something that can be also be problematic). There's a risk that the trunk doesn't totally break off from the root ball and you're left with it, the trunk, still up in the air, but the top now down on the ground (refer to my "First" note above- I'd chain and leave). If one does this, though, one has to stay away for however long it takes; this area would have to be off-limits: I don't like the notion of being around something that is a ticking time bomb like this.

* Perhaps cut like one does for removing big branches? Bottom cut first and top cut out/up from the bottom cut. I'd NOT look to sever/complete, just to set up for gravity to finish off. Again, look to wrap (and leave on) a chain above where you make the top cut: the trunk will likely blow out a bit but only back to the bottom cut.

I'd think about using an excavator to get the tree to lower the top to the ground- slowly dig out from the trunk side at the base (put dirt in behind the root ball as you go). Will need to remove branches on the low side first. Other than for this sort of approach I'd NOT use any machinery to interact with this tree lest one wants to twist a loader or an arm (excavator): these trees are HEAVY- I had one come down last Fall (5' diameter at the butt) and got a couple of cut rounds out of it to allow passage through an area- rounds about 3' long and almost 4' in dia weigh, I estimated, about 1,500 lbs (could just get my grapple on one): heard this tree blow out /explode from over 1/8 mile away during a storm and while I was in the house.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

Those instructional videos have ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with the original post situation.

A tree with an upset rootball is NOT a leaner.

The rootball is one event, the tree trunk and top, quite another.

I find this "reference" and suggestion "off the mark" in a strong way.

This tree is resting on the berm. The forces and the loading are the same types and locations as an extreme leaner with somewhat higher tension and compression loads, and you handle them the same way. Physics is Physics. Mechanics of Materials is Mechanics of Materials.

The cutting practices for a heavy leaner are the safest approach to this problem. He has to worry about the stump with attached ball potentially falling back into the hole, and the portion of the tree still attached to the stump rapidly coming up. He has to worry about the bottom of the tree he is cutting loose falling on him. He needs to control and account for both of those actions in his planning.

There is no safer way to deal with that than cutting it as a heavy leaner. Cut the bottom notch a quarter or less into the log. Cut the two side clearance cuts leaving the hinge and lock. Then cut the lock in very small increments, stepping back to look and listen for a reaction. And when you see or hear the reaction get back fast. (As in, “Drop the saw and run”, fast.)

If ever there was a good application for a battery powered saw, this is it. The quieter saw would make it a lot easier to hear the cracking that lets you know it is breaking loose.

 

[hondo964]

Lots of good opinions here....my opinion, to summarize much of what has been said is this:
- first assumption: this needs to be done.
- don't mess with the top since it's 50 ft. high off the ground.
- keep your feet on the ground!
- don't cut with the saw above your chest.
- if you are worried about a barber chair, then wrap repeatedly the tree above the cut with a 2-4" strap to hold it together.
- underside notch is helpful to give the top room to fall and not pinch and create tension.
- As you cut from the top down, NEVER come close to sawing thru the hinge - that's your life.
- on the stump side, I agree it would be helpful to see pictures.
- I like the idea of getting a backhoe in there to loosen dirt (if you have one)
- Great idea to add dirt into the hole so the stump doesn't have the distance to snap back.
- plan your escape route and keep it clear.
- Interesting idea of cutting on a bias away from the stump. Not sure on this....I like a straight cut so I can get the saw out quicker and not pinch.
- Seems like the stump is the biggest danger. I'd try to remove the dirt from it scratching on it with my backhoe and then load and pack alot of dirt behind to limit its travel.
- If you haven't done much felling, I'd look for a friend or someone with experience.
- And yes, don't work alone. I usually park my ride in the position of leaving in case you need the time.
- Ask the Lord to protect you before you start cutting.

 

[tractortroof]

I know an experienced person who died doing something very similar. Stored energy-tree suddenly moves-smashed his skull.

 

[ArlyA]

I know an experienced person who died doing something very similar. Stored energy-tree suddenly moves-smashed his skull.

There is around 30,000 ER trips made in the USA each year attributed to chain saws.

 

[fishhead]

There is a series of very good chainsaw how to do it safely videos on YouTube, the BC Fallers Series by British Columbia’s version of OSHA.

They have a video on extreme learners. Which is what this is, a very extreme leaner. Watch it and pay attention to what they are teaching. And it will guide you through how to do it safely.

basically a shallow wedge out of the bottom. Then rotate in from the center of the high side, leaving an intact strip, to hold the tension, and then cut out the strip a little at a time, stopping to look and listen. At the first sign of movement or sound of cracking wood, dropp the saw and beat feet.

Those are a great series and some of the bucking ones have applicable advice.

strictly speaking this is a bucking job, not felling, the tree felled itself

 

[fishpick]

strictly speaking this is a bucking job, not felling, the tree felled itself

Well - then - it did a ****ty job!

Assuming it does not rain MORE - I'm planning on seeing what I see tomorrow afternoon and I'll take the pics and post back so everyone stays updated!