Ssqa snowplow conversion advice needed

[M59]

I've got an old Western snowplow model 60214 (6'6") that I want to convert to a SSQA for use on my tractor. The plow is in good shape, but the cylinders are not. I had to cut the pins to get them off. Not sure if they are worth rebuilding? How do I know what size cylinders I need?

You should copy the original cylinder's since, based on the picture, you have the entire system except for the receiver mounted on the truck. The existing "old" cylinders give full L and R swing based on existing mount points.
You are looking for cylinders rated pressure 1.5 times the pressure that tractor capable for providing.

Here is link for sizing a hydraulic ram.

How to Measure a Hydraulic Cylinder

Learn how to measure a hydraulic cylinder. Includes discussion of how to properly measure a hydraulic cylinder for replacement.

www.hydrauliccylindersinc.com

 

[Rustyiron]

Got two new cylinders for the snowplow. Planning out the hydraulics for the plow and tractor. I'd like to include a flow restrictor. Will a restrictor on only one hose create the desired affect for both? Or do I need a restrictor on both?

Are you worried that they'll be too fast?
I've never used them but there's some kind of restrictor "washer" that you can put into a fitting or hose end. I don't remember if there's different orifice sizes or if you simply drill it.
It was here on TBN that I've read the conversation. The plows that I've made were for skid steers and there's a flow controller built in the machine so I can handle the cylinder speed with this.
Unless you're tractor is hydrostatic and you'll have your rpm's up, you should have time enough to try it without. Most tractors don't deliver much flow (or the rated flow) at lower rpm's and you might be fine.

 

[amhicks21]

You'll want to run flow restrictors. you can do adjustable valves but you'll want them on both sides and you'll want the ones that only restrict flow in one direction and not the other so it doesn't cause the cylinders to basically fight against each other. Imagine the cylinder on one side trying to extend faster than the one on the other side can retract. My first plow build was with a curtis and from having too much inlet flow on one side and too little outlet flow on the other side it actually wore through the center pivot after a few years. Without flow control and using an electric 3rd function the blade would snap back and forth quite hard and cause excess wear on the plow and loader. You probably know already, but you'll want a crossover relief valve as well. Otherwise its just a matter of time before either the loader or plow gets some major damage.

for the flow control you can use something like

Buyers F800S 1/2" NPT Steel Flow Control Valve​

and for crossover relief something like

Buyers Products Cross Over Relief Valve, SAE, GPM 10, Working Port 1/2 in, Max. PSI 3000, Model# HCR050SAE​

 

[5030]

Here is mine. Works fine, maybe a tad wide but I deal with it just fine. I do run chains on the front tires when plowing but not the rear.

Don't really look forward to winter, I prefer warm weather myself.

 

[M59]

5030,

What was the hardest part of adapting a commercial plow to the tractor and what was your solution.

Looks like a 10 foot wide blade. Ever consider plasma cutting 1 foot of either side to reduce pushing the front around when angled?

 

[amhicks21]

I forgot i had a picture of what happens if the flow restriction isnt set up correctly. to be fair, the center pivot on curtis plows is pretty weak to begin with.

 

[Gordon Gould]

amhicks21 is right. If you have electric 3rd function valves (full on/off) you will want restrictors or your plow will really slam on angling. I used 0 to 5 gpm needle valves from Surplus Center. They work well on my M5640 tractor. I also used a cross over relief valve from SC. Plow cylinders had a warning not to exceed 2500 psi all over them. My tractor runs at 2800 plus when you push into a solid bank or hit something you will want hydraulic relief to protect the cylinders.

Prince Mfg | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

Prince Mfg,Brands, HAND PUMP HYDRAULIC SYSTEM Brand new PRINCE. Operates hydraulic presses, dumps, plows, snow blades, hydraulic tables, frame

www.surpluscenter.com

gg

 

[PreacherM]

With all these good suggestions I'll need to increase my budget for hydraulics! Oh well, I'd much rather buy a $100 crossover relief than (possibly) deal with a tweaked FEL or broken plow.

 

[5030]

5030,

What was the hardest part of adapting a commercial plow to the tractor and what was your solution.

Looks like a 10 foot wide blade. Ever consider plasma cutting 1 foot of either side to reduce pushing the front around when angled?

No not at all. The M9 handles the 10 footer just fine. I will say I have a blower on the back as well so if it gets too deep-drifted, I flip around and blow it away. No front pushing with the chains on, why I run them.

No hard part, just some welding and fabrication and I don't run any flow restrictors in the lines either. No need to.

 

[M59]

Thanks. I am interested in adapting an 8 foot Fischer to my M59. Your M9000 and my M59 TLB are pretty close in factory delivered weight.