Newb looking for advice and info on a new compact tractor and attachments

[Torvy]

No issues with LS, but of it is the same dealership, don't worry about what he says he sells more. Get the most machine for your money, provided it feels right. TYM has been in business longer than LS. Maybe he sells more LS due to more profit for him, I have no idea. That may or may not mean anything. Both make good equipment for a better price than the bigger names.

 

[alexpops]

Some thoughts ... your mt 352 looks to be about the same size as my xr 4150. Trailer is probably too small. Granted dump is handy for some equipment hauling, but you may find a dedicated equipment trailer more practical unless some stuff stays at worksite. Where are you putting all the implements over & above the FEL/BH? Are you transporting everything each trip, or are you leaving stuff at worksite? How will it be secured? I have a 20 ft 15k equipment trailer no BH, & need to be creative when moving multiple implements with the tractor. How will the overhanging BH affect your tongue weight & will you be safe hauling for your distance/road conditions?

Definitely fill the tires, especially for nonlevel land. From your description, you have two distinct phases of work ... heavy dirt moving, then maintenance. The tractor is great for the second phase, not so good for first. How often are you going to have to swap out the BH for blade/scraper/bb? Consider a used tlb/mini ex that you can resell once heavy dirtwork is done. Cost may be negligible compared to renting IF you have the liquidity/credit to swing both for a while. Especially if construction slows as interest rates rise. Take your time in acquiring implements. Keep an eye out for deals & get when needed or available. I didn't see any mention of a mower. What will cover your (campsite)?dirtwork once done? Grass? Desert scrub? Gravel? How do you plan on keeping it under control? Trails? Same issues.

You mention fencing. What kind? T-posts? pipe? or wood? A posthole auger might be a consideration for later. How thick are your woods? Cab will protect you from branches, but will take lots of bangs, bumps, damage if you have thick woods. Width of rear implements ... minimum is cover your tire width probably 6 ft ... wider is better as long as you can pull it.

What are you doing with trees/branches from your clearing activities? Burn piles or do you need a chipper? Stumps ... BH can dig them out, but will leave a big hole that needs to be filled/leveled. Stump grinder may be better choice if your not building over them.

Good luck. Sounds like fun projects in your future.

 

[dodge man]

Your really digging in so to speak. (Pun intended)

Id say your tractor and equipment list is a good choice. I do think the trailer might be tough to fit the tractor on. A dedicated trailer for the tractor is going to be a better choice. Do you have an adequate tow vehicle? Does it have enough tow capacity, payload and a brake controller?

I hate to be the safety police but if you are a new operator lots of opportunities to hurt yourself or the equipment. Those first few hours will be critical. You are going to want to get a lot of work done. The first few hours can be frustrating but your skill will develop quickly. The best way to learn is to take your time and start with easy tasks. Sitting on a tractor all day can be surprisingly tiring. Quit when you get tired.

Sounds like exciting times and lots of new experiences for you and your family. Don’t forget to step back now and then and just enjoy the process.

 

[tradosaurus]

How many acres will you be working with the tractor?
Check Youtube on how easy or hard it is to remove the backhoe.
Will there be issues having a cabbed tractor around trees?
Having had an 18 ft trailer, I wish I would have bought a 22 ft trailer.

 

[rScotty]

I would liked to consider a purpose built TLB, or even a track loader with backhoe and grader attachments. I've looked into them but it all comes down to cost. I just can't afford what would be the optimal tools for what I need to do. I've got to do the best I can with what I can afford.

Would you consider low hour TLB? Or only a new tractor? Apparently a good older machine is not on your list. I think someone pointed out that implements are different; there is little difference in new vs used implements.

• The other option is renting the correct equipment as I need it.
• Renting seems to be nothing but downsides. It doesn't sound like it will work for you.
  • 
    
  • Lastly - I know where I am right now financially and I can afford to buy this tractor. I don't know where I will be financially later and don't want to be in a bind when I can't afford the equipment to keep the work going.
  • A tractor at any price is only an expense if you think of it that way. If you have the capital, then it's just one more investment. Maybe it decreases in value....maybe not.
• And, as kind of my best effort at a compromise here, remember that for the inital heavy lifting on the road work, I am planning to hire out to someone to do it with a dozer. I am hoping that leaves me with much more manageable tasks for the compact tractor.
• Probably the wisest think you've said so far.
• 
  
• Though a remaining concern I have is that it will still likely leave me with a lot of trees, mostly aspen trees to tear out with my tractor backhoe....
• The size backhoe you are considering doesn't do "tearing out" .... not even of brush. Revise that.
• 
  
• (and I think I forgot to mention, I am planning to add the mechanical thumb to the hoe. I think I need it for some of the stuff I need to do with the hoe.)
• Very useful. Doubles the ability of a hoe. But still that is a small hoe. Good for digging, not large enough for much other than digging.

Third rear remote and third function for the loader (and 4 in 1 bucket);

• I'm not sure if LS offers spring loaded detent valves but I'm just going to expect you know more than I do on this. I am pretty sure I don't even fully understand what the detent does. Until I saw your response I assumed it could be used for float.

Detent is used for Float. Correct.

• I will consider doing the third function if those here think it will make that much difference. Since I am not planning to get a grapple right away, I believe that is something I can wait on and just have added later? Or is it better to do itnow??

Depends entirely on your land. Back East it is a necessity. In the more open western mountains a grapple doesn't have as much use. But do get the 3rd function and also get SSQA. Add a FEL rock bucket to your implement list.

• I'm assuming I need the 3rd function in order to run a 4 in 1 bucket? I'm not sure what that type of bucket does. How does it help? How expensive would it be to buy?

4n1 have not been as popular as we expected them to be. I don't have one and am not sure why. However, they are heavy. Would be marginal on your anticipated size of tractor. I think you are better with a rock bucket or grapple, and back blade.

• When I was shopping other brands and I asked about adding a second or third rear remote, a couple dealers had quoted me 200-300.00 to add an extra remote. I was kind of shocked when I asked this LS dealer and they are quoting me 850.00 to add that third remote. Does that sound like an exhorbitant price? Can I get it cheaper somewhere else, or did I misunderstand the other dealers??
• Something is not equivalent there. Suggest you start another separate subject & discuss 3rd function and remotes. You want a handy 3rd FEL function, and possibly a single rear remote with possibility of others. Expect that combo to be about an $800 to $1200 adder. Get that and you can add more later.
• Yes, it is true that a knowledgeable hydraulics person could do that for half the price. not less.

Box Blade, road work, rear hydraulics;

• The recommendations I am seeing here is for a wider and heavier box blade. Is there any concern about it being wider than the tractor? I'm assuming The extra size, and especially the extra weight, make the blade a better tool for grading and sloping a road, and especially for creating a drainage ditch along side the road, but are there downsides to the larger size? would I really want to go as wide as 78"?
• Box blades are very cheap and universal. Get the heaviest ugliest one you can find. I think we have four. We usually use instead a 3 way adjustable back blade with trailing wheels and end caps. It is NOT CHEAP.
• ChevyGuy recommended the Woods attachments in general. Any other recommendations? Or is Woods kind of the cream of the crop. And is it the right way to spend limited funds on going with the best and biggest there?
• For the back blade, yes. For the box it doesn't matter. Get something used at first for either.
• And per the recomendation to also get the landpride grading blade and/or the land plane. I would love to but as you recognized in your response, these things cost a lot and I have limited funds, so I need to try to find the best inital tools I can afford and make do with what I've got till I can afford to add more tools.
  • Having said that, is the box blade the correct tool I should be focusing on at first? my reading led me to believe that it is the best general tool to start for a lot of the things I need to accomplish, though maybe not the best tool for any one of those tasks. Would you all recommend a different tool to focus on first for road grading and sloping, creating drainage, long term road surface maintenance (One of me biggest issues will be ruts that get created from drainage running straight down the road in the stretches of the road that run up a serious incline), clearing brush and ground cover and then grading for new roads, and for building up areas that have been dug out of a mountainside?
  • A big HEAVY 3 way adjustable back blade with end caps will do all that.
  • I had planned to get forks and thought I could use those as a poor mans grapple for a while, besides just using them for loading and unloading things from the trailer. Where MtviewRanch is so strongly recommending the grading blade, should I not buy forks and instead put that money toward saving for a grading blade?? (I'm assuming that the land plane is more of a convenience purchase and can wait..?)
  • Yes. Save the Forks until later. Get a rock bucket if you have rocks to move. A good one will do a lot of what you would normally do with forks and grapple.
• Top and Tilt Kit - I have seen those and think it would be super cool. I would really like to get this if I can make it work. My concerns would be;
• TOP & TILT are for later. You have manual adjustments you can use now
• 
  
• Thanks for the advice on the tires. I had kind of thought that I should get them filled. the dealer I am buying the tractor at is not the closest to my land, but he is the guy that has a tractor in stock to buy. He doesn't carry a lot of parts inventory, or offer some of the services, like filling the tires, that I want, so i will wait and have it done by a tire shop closer to my land.
• Filling depends on your land. I prefer not to fill. But it depends on the type of tire and if you have mud or sandy soil. Note that having a filled tire is NOT something I would ever do if I was working remotely. How are you to fix a flat??

lastly, anyone have ideas on where I should go to purchase the smaller backhoe bucket? My dealer doesn't have any and would have to order them from LS. Are there better aftermarket places to look for one, or I just need to order from LS?
There are lots of sources. Look into whether or not the backhoe has pinned or QA buckets first. We need to know more about your land and type of dirt before talking about buckets.
good luck,
rScotty

 

[2manyrocks]

Would emphasize that (1) many have been killed getting their tractor on or off the trailer. Having the trailer tail move or the ramps move could mean an instant rollover and (2) essential to get the trailer weight properly distributed on the trailer to avoid potential fish tailing and loss of trailer control.

Having a dozer knock out the heavy work is a very good idea. Take time to think through all that you really want done and then get it done so you aren't wishing you'd already had it taken care of to begin with.

A tractor is useful for fine tuning and clean up work with the FEL and a box blade. Backhoes are awesome for trenching, removing small trees, etc. Don't abuse your equipment if you want it to be reliable.

dodge man gave you great advice to quit when you're tired. That's when accidents happen.

 

[rScotty]

DUSTYCOYOTE WROTE:
"Because I'm a newb and will be using this for earth work primarily, I am planning to go with HST. Everything I read says this is what HST is designed for, I just need to get a powerful enough tractor to make up for any HST power loss (though I won't be using the PTO much really...)"

I agree on the HST - although the various clutchless power shifts have gotten so good and so much of a money saver that they should be considered if cost is an issue or long stretches at constant throttle is part of your expectations.

Otherwise, HST is very handy everywhere and absolutely rules for back and forth and small movements.

For dirtwork get as many HST ranges as you can.

I happen to think that having 6 HST ranges instead of 2 or 3 makes Kubota's HST+ worth the extra cost of Kubota all by itself. More gears are better. and HST+ is a huge advantage in power and working that needs to be experienced to be appreciated. But since the 6 speed HST+ has been out for 15 or more years now it should be available on other makes too. Be sure to ask for it on whatever brand you get.

Without HST+, it means constantly range shifting between L/M/H which is a pain that gets old fast. It's a pain because unless the ranges are syncronized shifts you have to stop and lean on the shifter to physically slide things around inside the transmission. No brand that I know of has a syncro tranny between L/M/H. If they did, you won't have to stop to change ranges and in that case the 3 speed HST is OK.

Anyway, if your main interest is moving dirt and trees and rocks, get all the gearing you can regardless of how you do it. Reason is that with a smaller machine you will be using full throttle a lot doing those things. Extra gears and weight are how you get the torque to the ground.
rScotty

 

[Jchonline]

HI all,

I'm sure there have been 50,000 posts like this one posted over the years and just want to say thanks in advance to the community for being here to help people like me.

I'm about to purchase my first tractor and want to get some advice from those with knowledge/experience I don't have. I'll list out my situation and thoughts here as succinctly as I can, and then ask some questions. If there are things I should be considering or asking that I'm not, by all means, inform me.


I have a wooded property that we bought recently and need some equipment for various maintenance and improvements. We bought it purely as a recreational camping site for my family. No farming. No revenue will come from the tractor, so I am very sensitive to price. This is a spend on creating family experiences.

Mostly based on that cost sensitivity I've pretty much decided to go with an LS MT352. I was pretty shocked at how much better of a deal I can get it for than other comparable models from other vendors. TYM was pretty competitively priced with it, but I felt more comfortable with the LS for a lot fo reasons, not least of which because the dealer sells and services lots of LS's, but relatively few TYM's. I'd like thoughts of how appropriate this unit is for the situation I list out below.

The primary, and almost sole expected usage for the tractor will be earth moving. Part of the reason I was even able to afford the property is that it includes a large area that needs some serious cleanup and remediation. I will have to spend probably several years digging out a multi-acre area and removing earth from one area and using it to build up another.
My access to the land is over a 2 mile moutainous forest road that is only really an ATV trail right now. I will probably hire out for dozer work to do the initial road widening but will still need to do a lot of tractor work to clear areas, build good drainage, and maintain it over time. Several stretches of the road include pretty severe (to me) grades of up to around 20% that will need to be moderated and maintained so I can get a fifth wheel in to the property.

I will also be most likely putting in quite a bit of fencing ultimately. The land is pine and aspen forest covered everywhere except the areas that need the earth work. There are a few places where I will need to do some land clearing to add some roads and to make campsites. The property is moutainous so some of where I need to clear trails and work will be on hillsides.

I plan to buy a box blade for road maintenance as it seems to be the most versatile of the tools to shape and maintain a mountain road. I also will spend money to get forks as well as it just seems that everything I see online from tractor users kind of says that forks are just really super useful for a myriad of things.

Because of my usage needs, I figured it would be important to get a heavier frame compact tractor, but want it as small an overall size as possible in order to get into the trees as needed. I figured my priorities to be overall weight, frame strength, loader, and backhoe.

Because I'm a newb and will be using this for earth work primarily, I am planning to go with HST. Everything I read says this is what HST is designed for, I just need to get a powerful enough tractor to make up for any HST power loss (though I won't be using the PTO much really...)

I have a lot of deadfall so I think I'll use the forks at first but likely end up with a grapple over time, so I'll get a third function, or will get additional remotes on the back that I can run hoses from.

The land is pretty remote, with no structures or anywhere to take breaks, and a lot of the dirt I will be digging in will be dry and super dusty, so I am planning to get a cab.


So my questions are;


Backhoe -

• LS specs their compact tractors with 2 levels of backhoe. a 2100 series, and a 3100 series. The 2100 series is a foot shorter and rated for about 2700lbs of breakout force. The 3100 is rated for about 1000 lbs more breakout force. The MT352 I'm looking at has a 2100 series backhoe installed. Since this is a tool I expect to use a lot, I told them I would only buy it if they swapped that out for the 3100 series, which they are doing for me.
• I'm concerned by one youtube guys experience with this backhoe though, where the owner had continual serious failures using this backhoe.
• For anyone who is not familiar, this backhoe is not made by LS. It is the same backhoe that is on Kioti's, and some others. and that is what confuses me. I haven't really read any bad reviews from Kioti owners or others. Definitely not the at the level of failures that this guy expereinced (like structural problems, etc.)
• Anyone have any experience with the LS/Kioti backhoes?

What attachments should I be thinking about? -

• I know I need the loader and backhoe. And am planning on box blade and forks. Are those the right attachments to be focusing on? should I be getting something different or additional?
• One thing I am concerned about is clearing brush and ground. There are some areas where I want to clear some brush and create a new road. Would I be able to do this with a loader and box blade? Do I need to be thinking about getting something else as well?

Where to buy attachments -

• My dealer offers box blades by Titan Implements, but it looks like that company has changed names and these are still labeled Titan. They also appear to be standard duty models. everything I've read makes me think that, for box blades, I need to buy as heavy duty as I can. So I think I'll pass on these. Also, generally I think it's a bad idea to buy things at dealers. Generally that's not where you find the best deals.
• I was looking at Everything Attachments, and Woods (just because I have read good things about these brands). The EA box seems well designed, and is a little cheaper than the Woods, but the side walls are half as think as the Woods. The Woods weighs 680lbs, while the EA unit only weighs 515lbs.
• Does anyone have experiene with these and give any advice?
• What other brands should I be considering? Am I thinking the right way on these in the first place? Could I go cheaper??

• Th backhoe comes with a 24" bucket, which seems really wide to me for that hoe. I am thinking I probably need to buy a 12" bucket as well.
  • am I thinking right on that?
  • where should I look for buckets?

How wide of a box blade should I get?

• The tractor is 64" wide, so I am thinking I would want the 65" or 66" blades. Should I be looking at 72" blades instead? I will want to use it to create some drainage ditches beside the road and I'm thinking it may be an advantage to have a wider one (but also may be a paing to manage??)

Should I get my tires filled with Beet juice? and what is a normal cost to get that done?

The tractor comes with 2 rear ports. It can accomodate up to three. Should I have the third rear port added?

• I am planning on installing a hydraulic top link on it, so that will leave 1 port. I am expecting to use that port for the backhoe.
• I also expect that adding a third function for the loader will be too much $$, so I woud like to just run some hoses up from a rear remote.
• This is where I want a little help because of my inexperience -- I think that, when I have the backhoe installed, I can just remove the hoses for the top link and free up that port. So I would be able to run the hoe and a loader third function at the same time. And if I am using the box blade, the hoe ports will be freed up to use for the top link. So that would mean that I only really need 2 ports.
• But the 2 current ports only give me one detent port. I expect that I want 2 detent ports, wouldn't I?

Trailering -

I am planning to buy a 16 foot dump trailer to transport the tractor. I don't want to go bigger than a 16 footer, but by my best estimates I am expecting that the backhoe will hang over the end of the trailer.

Anyone have any experience transporting with a dump trailer? Good idea or bad? Anything I need to think of before I drive to pick up the tractor with the trailer?




anything else here I'm not considering that I should be?

What you aren't accounting for is the next 10 years you are going to spend on the tractor trying to get it in shape. I am assuming you wont be able to go up there multiple times a week, please let us know if this is incorrect.

Time in a place like this is precious, time with family in a place like this is priceless. If you have to spend all of your time onsite riding on a machine you will miss that opportunity to have an experience. You will feel like you have so much work to do especially if there is any travel time involved in getting to the property. You will look up, and the kids will be too old to leave a lasting impression.

Hire the dozer to do all of the road work and earth moving. Get the basics done with heavy equipment, then down the road you can get a tractor and maintain it.

 

[alexpops]

I'm concerned by one youtube guys experience with this backhoe though, where the owner had continual serious failures using this backhoe.

Read through the thread "Thoughts on this guy's experiences" (LS OWNING/OPERATING) Addresses the youtube failures. Abuse of equipment by asking it to do too much is concensus.

Though a remaining concern I have is that it will still likely leave me with a lot of trees, mostly aspen trees to tear out with my tractor backhoe....

Your second post ... "tearing out trees" will likely give you the same results. These tractor backhoes aren't designed for that type of work ... digging/trenching ... yes. Light stump/rock work ... ok. Counterweight for FEL ... excellent. Nowhere near heavy enough to tear out trees without damaging the BH, Subframe, or tractor in the process.

 

[Jchonline]

HI all,

I'm sure there have been 50,000 posts like this one posted over the years and just want to say thanks in advance to the community for being here to help people like me.

I'm about to purchase my first tractor and want to get some advice from those with knowledge/experience I don't have. I'll list out my situation and thoughts here as succinctly as I can, and then ask some questions. If there are things I should be considering or asking that I'm not, by all means, inform me.


I have a wooded property that we bought recently and need some equipment for various maintenance and improvements. We bought it purely as a recreational camping site for my family. No farming. No revenue will come from the tractor, so I am very sensitive to price. This is a spend on creating family experiences.

Mostly based on that cost sensitivity I've pretty much decided to go with an LS MT352. I was pretty shocked at how much better of a deal I can get it for than other comparable models from other vendors. TYM was pretty competitively priced with it, but I felt more comfortable with the LS for a lot fo reasons, not least of which because the dealer sells and services lots of LS's, but relatively few TYM's. I'd like thoughts of how appropriate this unit is for the situation I list out below.

The primary, and almost sole expected usage for the tractor will be earth moving. Part of the reason I was even able to afford the property is that it includes a large area that needs some serious cleanup and remediation. I will have to spend probably several years digging out a multi-acre area and removing earth from one area and using it to build up another.
My access to the land is over a 2 mile moutainous forest road that is only really an ATV trail right now. I will probably hire out for dozer work to do the initial road widening but will still need to do a lot of tractor work to clear areas, build good drainage, and maintain it over time. Several stretches of the road include pretty severe (to me) grades of up to around 20% that will need to be moderated and maintained so I can get a fifth wheel in to the property.

I will also be most likely putting in quite a bit of fencing ultimately. The land is pine and aspen forest covered everywhere except the areas that need the earth work. There are a few places where I will need to do some land clearing to add some roads and to make campsites. The property is moutainous so some of where I need to clear trails and work will be on hillsides.

I plan to buy a box blade for road maintenance as it seems to be the most versatile of the tools to shape and maintain a mountain road. I also will spend money to get forks as well as it just seems that everything I see online from tractor users kind of says that forks are just really super useful for a myriad of things.

Because of my usage needs, I figured it would be important to get a heavier frame compact tractor, but want it as small an overall size as possible in order to get into the trees as needed. I figured my priorities to be overall weight, frame strength, loader, and backhoe.

Because I'm a newb and will be using this for earth work primarily, I am planning to go with HST. Everything I read says this is what HST is designed for, I just need to get a powerful enough tractor to make up for any HST power loss (though I won't be using the PTO much really...)

I have a lot of deadfall so I think I'll use the forks at first but likely end up with a grapple over time, so I'll get a third function, or will get additional remotes on the back that I can run hoses from.

The land is pretty remote, with no structures or anywhere to take breaks, and a lot of the dirt I will be digging in will be dry and super dusty, so I am planning to get a cab.


So my questions are;


Backhoe -

• LS specs their compact tractors with 2 levels of backhoe. a 2100 series, and a 3100 series. The 2100 series is a foot shorter and rated for about 2700lbs of breakout force. The 3100 is rated for about 1000 lbs more breakout force. The MT352 I'm looking at has a 2100 series backhoe installed. Since this is a tool I expect to use a lot, I told them I would only buy it if they swapped that out for the 3100 series, which they are doing for me.
• I'm concerned by one youtube guys experience with this backhoe though, where the owner had continual serious failures using this backhoe.
• For anyone who is not familiar, this backhoe is not made by LS. It is the same backhoe that is on Kioti's, and some others. and that is what confuses me. I haven't really read any bad reviews from Kioti owners or others. Definitely not the at the level of failures that this guy expereinced (like structural problems, etc.)
• Anyone have any experience with the LS/Kioti backhoes?

What attachments should I be thinking about? -

• I know I need the loader and backhoe. And am planning on box blade and forks. Are those the right attachments to be focusing on? should I be getting something different or additional?
• One thing I am concerned about is clearing brush and ground. There are some areas where I want to clear some brush and create a new road. Would I be able to do this with a loader and box blade? Do I need to be thinking about getting something else as well?

Where to buy attachments -

• My dealer offers box blades by Titan Implements, but it looks like that company has changed names and these are still labeled Titan. They also appear to be standard duty models. everything I've read makes me think that, for box blades, I need to buy as heavy duty as I can. So I think I'll pass on these. Also, generally I think it's a bad idea to buy things at dealers. Generally that's not where you find the best deals.
• I was looking at Everything Attachments, and Woods (just because I have read good things about these brands). The EA box seems well designed, and is a little cheaper than the Woods, but the side walls are half as think as the Woods. The Woods weighs 680lbs, while the EA unit only weighs 515lbs.
• Does anyone have experiene with these and give any advice?
• What other brands should I be considering? Am I thinking the right way on these in the first place? Could I go cheaper??

• Th backhoe comes with a 24" bucket, which seems really wide to me for that hoe. I am thinking I probably need to buy a 12" bucket as well.
  • am I thinking right on that?
  • where should I look for buckets?

How wide of a box blade should I get?

• The tractor is 64" wide, so I am thinking I would want the 65" or 66" blades. Should I be looking at 72" blades instead? I will want to use it to create some drainage ditches beside the road and I'm thinking it may be an advantage to have a wider one (but also may be a paing to manage??)

Should I get my tires filled with Beet juice? and what is a normal cost to get that done?

The tractor comes with 2 rear ports. It can accomodate up to three. Should I have the third rear port added?

• I am planning on installing a hydraulic top link on it, so that will leave 1 port. I am expecting to use that port for the backhoe.
• I also expect that adding a third function for the loader will be too much $$, so I woud like to just run some hoses up from a rear remote.
• This is where I want a little help because of my inexperience -- I think that, when I have the backhoe installed, I can just remove the hoses for the top link and free up that port. So I would be able to run the hoe and a loader third function at the same time. And if I am using the box blade, the hoe ports will be freed up to use for the top link. So that would mean that I only really need 2 ports.
• But the 2 current ports only give me one detent port. I expect that I want 2 detent ports, wouldn't I?

Trailering -

I am planning to buy a 16 foot dump trailer to transport the tractor. I don't want to go bigger than a 16 footer, but by my best estimates I am expecting that the backhoe will hang over the end of the trailer.

Anyone have any experience transporting with a dump trailer? Good idea or bad? Anything I need to think of before I drive to pick up the tractor with the trailer?




anything else here I'm not considering that I should be?

Backhoe on this machine is for digging only. Trenching, some holes for concrete, maybe some stumps. It is not for clearing land or trees.

I think a rear blade is more versatile than a box blade for road maintenance. But it does take longer to master and you will want ways to angle it (top n tilt cylinders). Box blade is best for moving material....once the dulldozer finishes with it a LPGS is hopefully enough to maintain it...and it will be much easier to use.

I like filled tires, they add significant weight to a tractor of this size and offer more ground engaging capabilities. I would recommend it. Keep in mind punctures are a real mess. A few hundred $ should cover the rears being filled.

I would recommend getting 3 rear remotes always.

Do not plan on towing a tractor of this size with a dump trailer. The FEL will probably not sit on the deck (even with the bucket off), which means you cant secure it properly. Even if it does...no room for implements. You can forget about a backhoe fitting...no way. Having things stick over the back or front of the trailer is bad. Don't be that irresponsible idiot on the road trying to do it.