Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE

   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #101  
Note: Running without a thermostat can cause overheating due to coolant not spending enough time in residence in the radiator to cool. This is one of the functions of a thermostat.
Thanks for the caution. While I have never experienced overheating due to the rush of coolant flying through the system too fast to pickup heat in the block and release it in the radiator (I think it is fiction caused by people that had genuine cooling issues, removed the thermostat and still had overheat issues), I am not proposing she runs the damn thing for several hours unattended. Simply a diagnostic test to determine if the machine runs for a longer or shorter duration without the thermostat.

I would agree when the op makes any change to the cooling system, she should monitor the temperature.

Best,

ed
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #102  
In another forum a guy had a tractor that had AC problems it overheated when he had the AC running so I made this troubleshooting list for him.

It occurred to me that his issue might have some of the same issues that yours does IF IT IS TEMPERATURE RELATED
Run through this list
engine thermostat is bad?

Bad water pump?

Fan is broke?

Condenser Fins for radiator or AC heat exchanger are all gummed up?

Radiator coolant low?

The Condenser pump has a bad bearing?

a Clog in the radiator? To get a redneck feel for the idea of a clog Place you hand ( or use an IR thermometer) to compare the upper and lower radiator hoses If they ain't the same temp there is a clog. I don't mean by a couple degrees I mean by a lot. You can replace or or maybe your dealer can flush it.

Do a Pressure test Auto Zone will rent you the tool 17PSI is top of the pressure limit. if the tester drops fast you got a leak or it's not hooked up right. Do this test when it's COLD.

Are the electric fans working???

Bleed air from the system? There should be a bleeder valve in the coolant system hidden somewhere open it, turn the Cab heating system to high( hot) but leave the fan off. Rig a funnel in the radiator ( there is a spill proof funnel kit you can buy https://www.amazon.com/Thorstone-Radiator.../dp/B097BHJJPS ) and pour radiator fluid in and the bleeder should let fluid out. When the system is full the bleeder will burble fluid out . tighten it back closed Top the resverour and radiator off. DON'T Put the cap back on. Start it and run it till the coolant fans engage and then check the radiator fluid level again. Then put the cap back on.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #103  
To get a redneck feel for the idea of a clog Place you hand ( or use an IR thermometer) to compare the upper and lower radiator hoses If they ain't the same temp there is a clog. I don't mean by a couple degrees I mean by a lot.
Shouldn't your ΔT's be at least 8°F if functioning correctly? Seems to me that if it was clogged there would be extreme ΔT's.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #105  
Didn't I say pretty much exactly and precisely that when I said
"I don't mean by a couple degrees I mean by a lot."
You said "Place you hand ( or use an IR thermometer) to compare the upper and lower radiator hoses If they ain't the same temp there is a clog." The thing is, they should NEVER be the same. I might have given you a pass if you said YOUR instead of YOU.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #106  
Note: Running without a thermostat can cause overheating due to coolant not spending enough time in residence in the radiator to cool. This is one of the functions of a thermostat.
Overheating without a t-stat will be for other reasons - if it happens at all. Primary among them will be a pre existing cooling problem such as a partially clogged radiator core inhibiting uniform coolant flow. Other contributory issues are collapse of the lower radiator hose, cavitation in the rapid moving coolant, etc.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #109  
Note: Running without a thermostat can cause overheating due to coolant not spending enough time in residence in the radiator to cool. This is one of the functions of a thermostat.

Overheating without a t-stat will be for other reasons - if it happens at all. Primary among them will be a pre existing cooling problem such as a partially clogged radiator core inhibiting uniform coolant flow. Other contributory issues are collapse of the lower radiator hose, cavitation in the rapid moving coolant, etc.
Please school me on that. What other reasons? I'd really like to know.

Do you have a specific question?
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #110  
Do you have a specific question?
The sense I got is he's trying to draw the other guy out so he can have a "got ya" moment. Then he'll self-righteously jump up and down on the other guy trumpeting his vastly superior god like all knowingness.
Notice his profile is cloaked, he doesn't want people looking at his posting history.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #112  
LOL good shot~!!

Yes it has no choice but to be different but how much? ERGO the phrase "a lot." I can't tell someone how much that is on any given vehicle at any given time. Can you?
Wish I had my school notes in front of me, but this read can pretty much sum it up in lay text for small gas engines.

 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #113  
Kinda makes you wonder how a 500 HP air cooled diesel engine can operate in the desert.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #114  
While I have never experienced overheating due to the rush of coolant flying through the system too fast to pickup heat in the block and release it in the radiator (I think it is fiction caused by people that had genuine cooling issues, removed the thermostat and still had overheat issues),
I spent some years as a mold maker for the injection molding biz. My molding room manager had a trick for increasing the cooling rate and shortening the time to cycle a mold. He'd turn the outlet valve down, closing the flow some forcing the water to say in the mold longer & cooling the mold more effectively. This (he contended) let the water (a phase change material) absorb more heat energy faster, because as he said water being a phase change material has a variable ability to take up energy. this ability changes dramatically as it takes on energy andchanged temperature. There are thermal regiems during which it takes up energy slowly and others where it does so rapidly. His contention was that if he kept the water in the mod just a wee skosh (pardon the highly technical terms) longer, it'd take up a lot more thermal energy and cool the mold more rapidly.
He was correct. the molds cooled faster and that let him run faster cycle times.

SOOOOOOOOOOO Logically allowing the coolant to stay in the heat exchanger a little longer will cause an uptick in energy transfer, improving cooling capacity for the benefit of the engine.
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #115  
I spent some years as a mold maker for the injection molding biz. My molding room manager had a trick for increasing the cooling rate and shortening the time to cycle a mold. He'd turn the outlet valve down, closing the flow some forcing the water to say in the mold longer & cooling the mold more effectively. This (he contended) let the water (a phase change material) absorb more heat energy faster, because as he said water being a phase change material has a variable ability to take up energy. this ability changes dramatically as it takes on energy andchanged temperature. There are thermal regiems during which it takes up energy slowly and others where it does so rapidly. His contention was that if he kept the water in the mod just a wee skosh (pardon the highly technical terms) longer, it'd take up a lot more thermal energy and cool the mold more rapidly.
He was correct. the molds cooled faster and that let him run faster cycle times.

SOOOOOOOOOOO Logically allowing the coolant to stay in the heat exchanger a little longer will cause an uptick in energy transfer, improving cooling capacity for the benefit of the engine.
I was swinging at a diagnostic test. I will confess I don't have an advanced degree in thermodynamics.

Of no use to the OP and just for fun:

In a closed system, moving heat from point a (the block) to point b (the atmosphere).

Fluid that spends more time at point a will take on more heat load, up to the point it changes state (boils and turns to steam), at that point the coolant can take no more heat, and will fail at moving heat from a to b.

Fluid that spends more time exposed to point b will dump more heat. Right down to the point where it reaches ~ambient temperature, at that point it will release no more heat.

Both of the above statements are true, as is the following.........

Fluid flowing more rapidly from point a to point b will pick up less heat per given volume of fluid that if it was flowing at a slower rate. However, the fluid per time unit will move an equal amount of heat from point a to point b, it will just have a lower temperature differential than fluid with a restriction (thermostat).

Sincerely, anecdotal oddities aside, the reason you shouldn't run your ice without a thermostat for a long period of time; the engine will not consistently reach operating temperature, and will not perform at optimal power/fuel efficiency.

Now, this is a hoot, and ****, maybe I am wrong, but I was trying to get closer to a diagnosis for the OP, not telling her to run the tractor without a thermostat for hours unattended.

I don't think I am making a frustrating problem any easier to find. So for heaven sake, don't even consider staring your engine without a thermostat, for even a minute. The heat of the flames will exceed the early hydrogen bombs, children and baby seals will die, we must think of the children (and the seals) :)

Sorry for the side track op, it was with good intentions, please do let us know what you find.

Best,

ed
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #116  
Please school me on that. What other reasons? I'd really like to know.
Sorry, I started this.

Cars that overheat without a thermostat are cars that were overheating, the owners pulled the thermostat to make sure it wasn't the cause, and the car still overheats.

Causes are many, but, plugged radiator, dirty radiator, broken fan or fan clutch ect ect ect...........

Best,

ed
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #117  
Sorry, I started this.

Cars that overheat without a thermostat are cars that were overheating, the owners pulled the thermostat to make sure it wasn't the cause, and the car still overheats.

Causes are many, but, plugged radiator, dirty radiator, broken fan or fan clutch ect ect ect...........

Best,

ed

That's what I was taught in school - but it always struck me as being a long on belief and short on experimental evidence. If anyone is interested, the relationship between flow and cooling in a radiator would make a good science project. Should be simple and inexpensive to prove or disprove a popular belief.
rScotty
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #118  
I dk but I will try, Lou. It *acts fuel/air starved when it goes into this cycle and it always happens when temp hits exact same point on gauge. New filter, rad and screen filter cleaning improved whole cycle but not by much. My last hope is the new fuel lines.

I’m going to look around for an independent diesel mechanic. Heck, I should just enroll in the community college’s training program and do a career change!
This sounds like a coincidence to me. It could mean the delivery blockage is consistently a fixed volume of fuel so the engine at the same load only runs so long and quits. The gauge resolution is most likely not good enough to say the stopping point is at the same temperature.

Don't get sidetracked. Find the reason for the fuel restriction. Pay particular attention to the fittings and the filter casting passages. I guess you don't have a lift pump so that's out of the equation. Have you done a good bleed on the filter housing?
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #119  
This sounds like a coincidence to me. It could mean the delivery blockage is consistently a fixed volume of fuel so the engine at the same load only runs so long and quits. The gauge resolution is most likely not good enough to say the stopping point is at the same temperature.

Don't get sidetracked. Find the reason for the fuel restriction. Pay particular attention to the fittings and the filter casting passages. I guess you don't have a lift pump so that's out of the equation. Have you done a good bleed on the filter housing?

That's my thought too....it still sounds fuelish to me. Of course if it is temperature then good that egg on face washes right off.

You know, just as an experiment it would be easy to take a piece of cardboard and block off half or more of the front of the radiator. Then be vigilant and see if it begins to slow down in half the time.

rScotty
 
   / Runs nice and dies in 20 min UPDATE UPDATE #120  
Should be simple and inexpensive to prove or disprove a popular belief.
the manager of our molding room proved it every single day all day long. Thing is, water is a phase change material.
Put a pot of water on a stove and turn the burner on high with a thermocouple in the water and run a timer.
You will see that the thermal energy that the water seems to accept (reflected in temperature change) is not constant across time. And you will notice it especially for the last some degrees before the water boils. It takes a very long time to cross that last threshold.
 

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