Garage floor

[copytmpmzl]

I need some advice, please.

I am having a shiny new garage built with nice new concrete base. I want a floor coating to protect it that offers the following...

1. Hard wearing.
2. Non slip.
3. Able to move an Abba stand around unhindered
4. Long lasting
5. Fluid proof (petrol/oil etc.).

I have looked at rubber matting, garage floor tiles and many other solutions, but they all seem to have drawbacks from what I can see. For instance, rubber matting will likely cause problems with the Abba stand when the caster wheels sink into it and becomes stuck (the wheels are too small really)

The most promising looks to be 2 pack epoxy coating with a non slip additive. It seems to meet all of my criteria. Does anyone have any experience or opinions on this?

 

[copytmpmzl]

I need some advice, please.

I am having a shiny new garage built with nice new concrete base. I want a floor coating to protect it that offers the following...

1. Hard wearing.
2. Non slip.
3. Able to move an Abba stand around unhindered
4. Long lasting
5. Fluid proof (petrol/oil etc.).

I have looked at rubber matting, garage floor tiles and many other solutions, but they all seem to have drawbacks from what I can see. For instance, rubber matting will likely cause problems with the Abba stand when the caster wheels sink into it and becomes stuck (the wheels are too small really)
polished concrete Arizona
The most promising looks to be 2 pack epoxy coating with a non slip additive. It seems to meet all of my criteria. Does anyone have any experience or opinions on this?

thanks in advance for any help

 

[ponytug]

Epoxy is your best bet. If you can swing it, consider glass fiber embedded epoxy; it will help eliminate any cracks. (You pour one layer of epoxy, and then while it is wet unroll the glass fiber, and then top coat it.)

Since you are pouring concrete, don't forget to put a layer of vapor barrier down, and if you are in an area that gets either lots of temperature changes or just cold, a layer of insulation. If there are any reason to think that the subsoil is damp, or wet, or will get damp/wet, make sure that you have good drainage.

There is a drying time for concrete before it is dry enough for epoxy. I wouldn't push it.

If it were me, I would consider upgrading the casters on the Abba stand to something wider, and urethane covered to not scuff the epoxy. I suspect that those Abba casters are going to be hard on any surface that isn't steel plate. (No experience with Abba, just experience with similar casters for other items.) e.g.
https://www.amazon.com/Swivel-Casters-Locking-Polyurethane-Duty-550/dp/B07VKSFYZG

All the best,

Peter

 

[Jstpssng]

A bit off topic, but if I ever have another slab poured I'll have the PEX tubing put in so that if you ever want radiant heat, it's there.
Just a thought.

 

[LouNY]

You know your from cold areas when you want heat in a concrete slab,
but dang it sure is nice when down on a creeper or a sheet of cardboard when the floor is warm.
I'll definitly agree it is nice for working on with the heat being low were you are working.

 

[dlctcg]

I agree with all the comments above...

Epoxy would be my first choice (well would be my only choice)... & as mentioned, make sure you wait for the concrete to cure & follow all the instructions. Having worked with a few different epoxy & polyurea topcoats, I will say do your research, as they are not all equal...

Also, if in a cold climate I would look at installing pex in the floor

 

[Rebeldad1]

When I built my automotive shop I had a friend (pro painter) do the floor in a medium grey color. Same specs needed. All was met but the non slip additive. Maybe wasnt a thing then. Really didnt have any slippage problem unless it was wet. even then not a issue.
Cant remember the name though. It was a 2 part paint and he wore a mask. All I remember was the brand name started with a Z (Zoline?)

Was a great paint and really impressed how it held up. Recoated after several years of use and covered well in 1 coat.

Held up to all automotive fluids including brake fluid. Kept a mop and bucket near by for cleanup.

 

[Torvy]

Mama Mia, that is a tough question. Does Your Mother Know you want it to be Good As New? I hear your SOS, No Doubt About It, but Knowing Me, Knowing You, the list of replies will go On and On and On.

You may want to check with Fernando. The solution will all be about The Little Things, but will definitely cost Money, Money, Money.

Once your abba floor is done, Put On A White Sombrero, hire a Rock N Roll Band and Dance. Don't let this be your Waterloo, but if you've read this far, you're a Super Trouper. Choose wisely and remember, The Winner Takes It All.

If you get a good answer, I'm going to need some too. Maybe, we could get Two For The Price Of One.

 

[IndyJay]

I used the Rustoleum epoxy kit with the confetti flakes for traction. Went down well, has held up for 20 years with some wear through where you might expect. No flaking or peeling, just worn through. Will be recoating in Spring with same.

I used the 2.5 car kit for 30' x 36' foot garage. Plenty to do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-251965-Garage-Floor-Gray/dp/B006ZUZB9Y?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2TQ84ZXM9986D&th=1

 

[dodge man]

I used the Rustoleum product also, not great results. Prep is the key. My problem was I painted the floor with cheap floor paint, then I power washed that stuff off sort of, then put the Rustoleum down a few years later. If I were to do it again I’d go with the very high end stuff they use in aircraft hangers. My garage is 28’ x 30’ and the material to do it would be around $1000.

My problem was I wanted to move into my garage right away and use it and wasn’t patient. The picture is mine, about 20 years old Rustoleum floor paint, the paint that is missing is where tire tracks are from a car,

 

[IndyJay]

I used the Rustoleum product also, not great results. Prep is the key. My problem was I painted the floor with cheap floor paint, then I power washed that stuff off sort of, then put the Rustoleum down a few years later. If I were to do it again I’d go with the very high end stuff they use in aircraft hangers. My garage is 28’ x 30’ and the material to do it would be around $1000.

My problem was I wanted to move into my garage right away and use it and wasn’t patient. The picture is mine, about 20 years old Rustoleum floor paint, the paint that is missing is where tire tracks are from a car,
View attachment 768415

Yeah, mine was on new [but cured] concrete.

 

[LD1]

A bit off topic, but if I ever have another slab poured I'll have the PEX tubing put in so that if you ever want radiant heat, it's there.
Just a thought.

YA know, I often here people say this but in reality......I dont know a single person that has put pex in the floor because they "might" do radiant heat at some point in the future.

Its really not just as simple as "throw some pex in there and cover it with concrete".

It takes planning. Planning out zones.....and paying attention to hot out cold return. And tighter pex spacing around the perimeter. Not to mention 2" thick foam insulation under the slab that you then staple the pex to.

Then, if the garage is much larger than 20x20....moving concrete becomes an issue....because no buggies or wheel barrows. So tack on $500 more to the job for a pumper truck.

I helped a friend do a 40x64 with radiant heat. $3000 in insulation foam board, $1200 in pex, $100 in staples and tape, and $500 for the pump truck.

So for a 33 yard pour....darn near $5000 more just for stuff gonna be burried in concrete for radiant.

So unless people have money to burn....I dont know anyone that actually preps for radiant because of a "maybe". They are either doing it or they arent. ITs just too easy to tell others "you should put in pex....." Without actually thinking about the cost

 

[Jstpssng]

Good points. I poured my last slab alone with a 5 foot mixer which only turned backwards, so it wouldn't have been a big deal. The slab was (is) 16x24 and I poured it in 3 strips on 3 different days; the first two were 5 1/2 on each side, then I poured between them. Rather than buying "chairs" I first poured (4) 2"x12" strips the full length of the slab; these allowed me to run my mixer and tractor up the strips without destroying the mesh and rebar. In hindsight I wish I had at least put down the styrofoam board.

YA know, I often here people say this but in reality......I dont know a single person that has put pex in the floor because they "might" do radiant heat at some point in the future.

Its really not just as simple as "throw some pex in there and cover it with concrete".

It takes planning. Planning out zones.....and paying attention to hot out cold return. And tighter pex spacing around the perimeter. Not to mention 2" thick foam insulation under the slab that you then staple the pex to.

Then, if the garage is much larger than 20x20....moving concrete becomes an issue....because no buggies or wheel barrows. So tack on $500 more to the job for a pumper truck.

I helped a friend do a 40x64 with radiant heat. $3000 in insulation foam board, $1200 in pex, $100 in staples and tape, and $500 for the pump truck.

So for a 33 yard pour....darn near $5000 more just for stuff gonna be burried in concrete for radiant.

So unless people have money to burn....I dont know anyone that actually preps for radiant because of a "maybe". They are either doing it or they arent. ITs just too easy to tell others "you should put in pex....." Without actually thinking about the cost

 

[polo1665]

I need some advice, please.

I am having a shiny new garage built with nice new concrete base. I want a floor coating to protect it that offers the following...

1. Hard wearing.
2. Non slip.
3. Able to move an Abba stand around unhindered
4. Long lasting
5. Fluid proof (petrol/oil etc.).

I have looked at rubber matting, garage floor tiles and many other solutions, but they all seem to have drawbacks from what I can see. For instance, rubber matting will likely cause problems with the Abba stand when the caster wheels sink into it and becomes stuck (the wheels are too small really)

The most promising looks to be 2 pack epoxy coating with a non slip additive. It seems to meet all of my criteria. Does anyone have any experience or opinions on this?

I used two part epoxy coating with chips. As said above, it's all about the prep. You didn't say anything about area of your floor, but mine was about 960 square feet and it was fairly easy to apply with the help of a couple of family members.

Garage Floor Epoxy With Granite Look

Military grade garage floor epoxy that is DIY complete and no prior experience needed. Get the best granite looking epoxy floor for your garage or business.

www.armorgarage.com

 

[3gunr]

A house we were remodeling had the garage floor done with a commercial epoxy . It is beautiful . The rustoleum stuff isnt even close , We have put down the 2 part stuff and i holds up ok , The commercial stuff is very thickand has an almost pebble like finish , It is pricey though,About 6k for a 2 car garage.

 

[polo1665]

I had the guy from Nature Stone come out and give me a quote.......I was stunned. About 960 square feet and the intitial price was right at $17,000. Then of course they gave me a 50% discount to make me feel like I was getting a deal.
I told him I wouldn't give him more than $5,000 and he said they couldn't go that low.

 

[Code54]

PLEASE skip all the crap from Lowes/Home Depot/Etc. Buy something like this - TruAlloy. If it is an existing floor start by power washing the floor, fill all cracks, grind it smooth (Walk behind Diamond grinder - the rental house has them, and here it was under $100 for the day), sweep the garage out, wash the floor, let dry for a few days, then only apply your coating (often multi coats). If it is a brand new floor of course you need it super clean and make sure the moisture is out before coating. The only thing that will hold up is a top-quality coating if you are parking on it or really using the floor. I did mine a few years ago and it is still perfect. A lot of work at first but it will last and won't need to be redone in a few years. Attached is a photo of the floor and it was cracked, had a drain line cut through it, and was really uneven or covered with old paint and stain. This photo was before the trim and such went in, but it gives you an idea of the floor coating look when completed. Prep and a quality coating are the key!

 

[copytmpmzl]

YA know, I often here people say this but in reality......I dont know a single person that has put pex in the floor because they "might" do radiant heat at some point in the future.

Its really not just as simple as "throw some pex in there and cover it with concrete".

It takes planning. Planning out zones.....and paying attention to hot out cold return. And tighter pex spacing around the perimeter. Not to mention 2" thick foam insulation under the slab that you then staple the pex to.

Then, if the garage is much larger than 20x20....moving concrete becomes an issue....because no buggies or wheel barrows. So tack on $500 more to the job for a pumper truck.

I helped a friend do a 40x64 with radiant heat. $3000 in insulation foam board, $1200 in pex, $100 in staples and tape, and $500 for the pump truck.

So for a 33 yard pour....darn near $5000 more just for stuff gonna be burried in concrete for radiant.

So unless people have money to burn....I dont know anyone that actually preps for radiant because of a "maybe". They are either doing it or they arent signaturedetailers. ITs just too easy to tell others "you should put in pex....." Without actually thinking about the cost

thank you so much for such a suggestion

 

[spitter]

Anything that is homeowner applied ain't gunna hold up worth a . Commercially applied expoxy floors done by professionals are the only thing that's gunna hold up to car traffic and garage abuse. They range from $5 to $15 dollars a sq.ft. depending on the thickness and base material used. Google "Stone Hard" epoxy floors they have a good website with lots of pictures. We have their floors in some of our buildings and they hold up rather well.

 

[LD1]

thank you so much for such a suggestion

Your welcome