Width of Snow Plow to Buy?

[RoyJackson]

Not exactly sure what you mean but the snow the blade pushed out, some moves back towards your tractor. So you need a little ertax blade width to minize that.

Had a couple drinks there, Arly?

 

[KennyG]

Trig will tell you that a 7 foot blade, angled 30 degrees, will cover 6 feet. A 6 foot blade will cover 62 inches.

 

[milkman636]

It's seeming pretty clear to go with the 7' over the 6'. Would you go any wider???

It depends some on usage. But, the 7' is the minimum to keep from driving over the white stuff that's spilling off the side of the blade.

With my previous 53 hp tractor I ran an 8' wide blade and it worked well. I could clear a wide path in 2 passes on my 600' driveway at our last house and never felt underpowered for the blade. On our current place the smaller blade suits me better because I'm working in more confined space and maneuverability is important. Sometimes a wider blade can also be a curse when you're around stuff, or pulling in and out of where you park it. Overall I think the 7' is a real good match for these machines though.

 

[RjCorazza]

I forget the actual numbers, but I believe a 7' plow angled at 30 degrees is 6' wide. Wide enough to clear your footprint by 5.5" per side.
I run 7' front and rear plows on my L4060 that is 72" wide at the rear tires. I am rarely at a 30 degree angle though... Generally just barely angled

 

[ruffdog]

I too do not normally run my blade at the full angle. Half angle gives me more width and doesn't want to steer the tractor as much.

 

[DK35vince]

7' minimum.
I run a 9' front snow blade on my DK 35

 

[milkman636]

Angle of snow plowing is not real precise, just enough to get it rolling off to the side I want it is where I set it.

 

[RidgeHiker]

Not exactly sure what you mean but the snow the blade pushes out, some moves back towards your tractor. So you need a little ertax blade width to minize that roll back effect.

Was responding to Roy's earlier post.

 

[RidgeHiker]

It depends some on usage. But, the 7' is the minimum to keep from driving over the white stuff that's spilling off the side of the blade.

With my previous 53 hp tractor I ran an 8' wide blade and it worked well. I could clear a wide path in 2 passes on my 600' driveway at our last house and never felt underpowered for the blade. On our current place the smaller blade suits me better because I'm working in more confined space and maneuverability is important. Sometimes a wider blade can also be a curse when you're around stuff, or pulling in and out of where you park it. Overall I think the 7' is a real good match for these machines though.

Thanks for pointing out the maneuverability, where it's parked, etc. I have a lot of things to maneuver around, curves with trees to go around, and an 8' blade where I keep it would be inconvenient. 7' is sounding better and better. Besides, I am dangerous enough already with no implements wider than 6'

 

[ruffdog]

Thanks for pointing out the maneuverability, where it's parked, etc. I have a lot of things to maneuver around, curves with trees to go around, and an 8' blade where I keep it would be inconvenient. 7' is sounding better and better. Besides, I am dangerous enough already with no implements wider than 6'

I can relate!

 

[milkman636]

Thanks for pointing out the maneuverability, where it's parked, etc. I have a lot of things to maneuver around, curves with trees to go around, and an 8' blade where I keep it would be inconvenient. 7' is sounding better and better. Besides, I am dangerous enough already with no implements wider than 6'

Glad I could help. I had learned by experience that some of the equipment I brought from our old place was just too big to be practical at our new properties. Sometimes smaller is better.

 

[Sportsman762]

Not sure what the area your looking at plowing or your snow falls but here are my thoughts. A 6' blade at a 30 degree angle will clear 62" so you might not run it at full angle, an 7' blade will clear 72". If your planning on leaving the blade on with the blower I would get the narrower blade as it will be easier to run with a rear blower. However if your just looking at cleaning up light snows then I would look at a 7' or larger. One method with lighter snows is to plow one way then reverse back with the blower getting rid of the snow berm you just made and finishing clearing the drive to full width if possible in two passes. If you have open areas such as parking pads I would consider an 8' as it will clear 83" at full angle or 8' if straight. However it will reduce the depth of snow you can move with it.

 

[RidgeHiker]

I ended up purchasing an 84" Braber snow plow from a sort of local tractor dealer that had one in stock. My tractor is having some work done so I won't be using it right away but it looks sturdy and well built. Welds looked good. Made in China for a Canadian company. I spoke with several dealers that sold the brand that said they have had very few warranty issues which were for more mechanical products rather than the plows. I got the manual since I don't have hydraulic hook ups on the front. The blower is set up to add the hydraulics later at a cost of $390.

Thanks for all your assistance! It made the process much easier.

 

[bandc07]

I have a kioti ck4010 with 8' front blade and keep a 7' box blade on rear for ballest and move snow. 8' width is nice but a little heavier than I would like at times.

 

[John_Mc]

FYI to figure out the track width of an angled blade:

Cos(angle) x blade length

The angle should be in degrees, and make sure the calculator is set for degrees, not radians.

To use an example from this thread:
A 7 foot blade angled at 30˚
Cos(30˚)= 0.8660
0.8660 X 7 = 6.062 ft or just a shade under 73 inches

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I'd get 20' so I can cover both lanes of the highway in one pass.

 

[RidgeHiker]

Choosing a snow plow has been an interesting process. Having moved snow in several homes over the years with self contained snow blowers, a tractor pto blower, tractor buckets, rear blades, and shovels, and a little bit with an atv plow, I'm fairly aware that there are so many variables to what works the best. Also I am aware that the advice given by members here, which is much appreciated, is based on upon their particular conditions.

Conditions that include the amounts of snow, how light or heavy the snows are, how available are areas to move the snow to, the type and condition of the surfaces cleared, the width and shape of the driveways and open areas, the nature of the terrain, how available I am to deal with the snow before it deepens, settles and firms, how big and solid the berms from county plows, frequency of the snow, wind drifting, the tractor they work with, what other tools are needed where the tractor can't go, is the tractor open station or cab, and then there's the body.

Is it ok with driving backwards with a pto blower? How does it handle wrenching around a two wheel snow blower or a shovel? How does it deal with freezing temperatures and wind driven wet snow? Not just the wind driven falling snow but the snow hurled into the air by the blower?

Dealing with the snow is not just a job but something I don't always look forward to but also enjoy. It's a humbling way of meeting the forces of nature which are certainly sometimes dramatic. Like 5' of heavy snow interlaced with fallen branches, and towering berms at the road. Or coming home late at night from a trip with a few feet of heavy settled snow and a large berm at the road packed like concrete to get through just to get in.

 

[ruffdog]

Choosing a snow plow has been an interesting process. Having moved snow in several homes over the years with self contained snow blowers, a tractor pto blower, tractor buckets, rear blades, and shovels, and a little bit with an atv plow, I'm fairly aware that there are so many variables to what works the best. Also I am aware that the advice given by members here, which is much appreciated, is based on upon their particular conditions.

Conditions that include the amounts of snow, how light or heavy the snows are, how available are areas to move the snow to, the type and condition of the surfaces cleared, the width and shape of the driveways and open areas, the nature of the terrain, how available I am to deal with the snow before it deepens, settles and firms, how big and solid the berms from county plows, frequency of the snow, wind drifting, the tractor they work with, what other tools are needed where the tractor can't go, is the tractor open station or cab, and then there's the body.

Is it ok with driving backwards with a pto blower? How does it handle wrenching around a two wheel snow blower or a shovel? How does it deal with freezing temperatures and wind driven wet snow? Not just the wind driven falling snow but the snow hurled into the air by the blower?

Dealing with the snow is not just a job but something I don't always look forward to but also enjoy. It's a humbling way of meeting the forces of nature which are certainly sometimes dramatic. Like 5' of heavy snow interlaced with fallen branches, and towering berms at the road. Or coming home late at night from a trip with a few feet of heavy settled snow and a large berm at the road packed like concrete to get through just to get in.

Very well said.

 

[ArlyA]

Well, all things are a compromise. Including blade widths.

 

[RidgeHiker]

Perhaps and an unknown adventure as well as a compromise.