Ford 3600 CAV injection pump

[TractorTech]

The throttle arm on top of the pump is keyed to match the throttle shaft. If the shaft is not pulled all the way up, the arm will not engage into the shaft.

This is the part I am talking about

Right, this is correct.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Went to the Ford/NH dealership and the head mechanic that has been there I know since the 70's told me in about 5 seconds what was wrong. He said he had done it several times and it is easy to do. Check the top of the throttle shaft on top of the cap were the spring goes on and you will think it is in place, but it want be. He said it want start back up until you have it in the slot. He said to back it up counterclockwise a little and it will fall right into the slot and then put the lock nut on. I got home and in about 15 minutes had it going. Thanks everybody for the help.

Great recovery

Our 2500 hour 1980 3600 injector pump would drip some and my shop sent it to Boot Hill Diesel for new seals and testing. It was out of spec but still started and ran fine. We went back with a full rebuild. Their charge was $1100.
I am happy since due to health my shop owner is slowing down and has dropped commercial accounts and sold his service truck. On my old stuff were it's one day or one year to get it done is not a big hairy deal

 

[MikeAC]

I don’t think i assembled the top of the throttle shaft correctly. I checked before and after pictures and the lock screw does not screw down as far on my reassembly. Also noted a notch on the front of the set of washers where a wire engages a groove on the throttle arm? Sorry for the confusion these are actually a set of washers and not a spring. Two before and two after pictures enclosed , as best as i could get on the after pictures with the sun

 

[thepumpguysc]

The throttle shaft is obviously broken in the 1st pic.??
U HAVE TO remove the linkage from the lever.!!
Did u replace the shaft.??
What p# did u get.?

 

[MikeAC]

First picture is after i first removed the locknut and washer, the shaft was not broken and was not replaced

Please tell me what part you refer to as the linkage and which part is the lever, sorry I’m a novice at this
Thanks

 

[thepumpguysc]

The linkage is the steel shaft with the bend in it that fits into the hole in the lever..
It’s got a clip on it to hold the linkage shaft onto the lever.
It’s 100x easier to get everything put back together if u remove the clip and the lever..& push the linkage outta your way..

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..
But if u look at the shaft and the underside of the lever, you’ll see they are “keyed”.. meaning the square shaft has to connect to the square in the lever..& you’ll never be able to do it with the lever connected to the linkage rod.

 

[MikeAC]

I had changed the leaking O rings last fall and now can't get the tractor to start

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..

I think the throttle shaft is not engaging the keyway as you stated and needs to be "higher" ... I don't know a better way to say it; I will take your advice and remove the clip next time I try....

 

[MikeAC]

I’m guilty of not reading your write up, so I don’t know what your trying to do..

I think the throttle shaft is not engaging the keyway as you stated and needs to be "higher" ... I don't know a better way to say it; I will take your advice and remove the clip next time I try....

Ok. I tried again. "T" was correct. The keyway was not engaged with the spring loaded arm and the lock screw was not down as far as it was when I initially disassembled the top cover. This must be what the OP was trying to say and was the hint that something was wrong. I took the linkage off. Then I removed the screw from the top of the throttle shaft and removed the spring and dust covers(right two photos). I carefully re-placed the dust covers, realigned the keyway on the spring with the top of the throttle shaft(bottom photo). If done correctly then when you tighten the top lock screw it will compress the spring and lock the throttle shaft into the spring loaded lever arm that locks into the linkage(far left two photos). I opened and bled the screws on the filter and injector, loosened the nut to the left injector and then started the engine. It started right up. I did find that when I had reassembled the unit I had not placed the dowel from the kill switch into the proper slot so I shut off the fuel to the injector and waited for the engine to run out of fuel. I took the cover off again and aligned the dowel on the kill switch shaft with the lever arm inside the pump as best I could estimate. I then rotated the kill switch clockwise and counter clockwise until I heard a "click" and the cover snapped into place. It was at this time my neighbor arrived to help. This time the engine started and shut off as it is supposed to. I did have to do one final adjustment with the gasket as it was leaking. I still have to replace the kill switch pull cable, it no longer works, that's for another day.

 

[thepumpguysc]

Your missing a piece..
A flat washer..
It goes, top hat(dust cover) flat washer, then the lever..
But if it works, that’s all that matters, right.?
It’s basically just a spacer..
To see if has excessive play, grab the throttle with 2 hands and try to move it up and down..

 

[MikeAC]

Your missing a piece..
A flat washer..

Man , You are good!
yes I saw after I finished that the washer was still in my tool box!