'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[Bob_Young]

Other than price, how do you tell the Professional saws from the Homeowner versions. I've had much better luck with the Professional saws, but they are pricey. My Stihl MS261C, which I think is Professional, is light-years better/more reliable than my Homeowner MS250...which was always hard starting and now has no spark. But the 261C cost a lot more than the 250. Both my Huskies have done well, but I paid high prices for both. I guess they're Professional grade.

I've got enough saws that have issues and would just as soon pay the extra money for saws that run when needed . If price alone determines which saws will hold up, how do you look for bargains in the new saw market? Would like to find Professional reliability at Homeowner prices...at least occasionally.

Using price alone as a determining factor seems a setup for scams.
Bob

 

[5030]

Not sure about Stihl's (and I have a couple) but Echo saws are listed on their website as 'homeowner' or professional arborist saws. I buy the arborists saws all the time. really become 'attached' to Echo saws. Half the price of a Stihl and all are made in Japan.

Example, I had a Stihl top handle arborist saw I paid 700 bucks for and smashed it under the truck wheel. Bought an Echo CS top handle arborist saw for 400 bucks less. Dang good saw too. The Echo
'professional' saws all come with no cat in the muffler, the homeowner ones all have a cat in the muffler.

 

[5030]

Additionally, just bought an Echo Timber Bear 50 cc saw. No cat in the muffler. 20" bar but will pull a 24 as well.

 

[CalG]

From my "looking", Pro saws usually have higher grade internals. Up graded bearings, advanced cylinder porting/liners. Magnesium cases instead of alu etc.
I'm not sure about ignition components nor carburation. Seems like those would be pretty standard as far as price vs quality.

I'm looking hard at the 60cc Makita saw. (prograde) A lot of saw for $650.

 

[BryceSteiner]

I have found I like the battery powered saws. I can change out the bars/chain and I don't have to struggle with starting. I just put a fresh battery and go. Sometimes I'll go through a couple batteries but for the most part one will do it. They don't idle and only run when you need them to cut. I still have my Poulan but it just sits on the shelf...

 

[CalG]

I have found I like the battery powered saws. I can change out the bars/chain and I don't have to struggle with starting. I just put a fresh battery and go. Sometimes I'll go through a couple batteries but for the most part one will do it. They don't idle and only run when you need them to cut. I still have my Poulan but it just sits on the shelf...

Are they any good for cutting fuel wood off a pile? My wood (heat) comes in log length. Cutting 1/2 cord in a session seems like a lot for a battery saw. Sometimes I think a corded electric motor saw would be useful, but then I remember how heavy automotive starter motors are. ;-)

 

[BryceSteiner]

Are they any good for cutting fuel wood off a pile? My wood (heat) comes in log length. Cutting 1/2 cord in a session seems like a lot for a battery saw. Sometimes I think a corded electric motor saw would be useful, but then I remember how heavy automotive starter motors are. ;-)

I think they do, especially if you already have some batteries for your other devices (Like DeWalt). They sharpen well and cut like a champ. Doesn't have the "bogging" down that I sometimes get with my gas saw.

 

[sea2summit]

Are they any good for cutting fuel wood off a pile? My wood (heat) comes in log length. Cutting 1/2 cord in a session seems like a lot for a battery saw. Sometimes I think a corded electric motor saw would be useful, but then I remember how heavy automotive starter motors are. ;-)

After owning a battery saw, Milwaukee, for a few years now I’ll never be without one. I don’t think they are ready to take on firewood processing yet. But for trail clearing, limbing, or 3-4 softwood cuts under 8” they are very hard to beat for handiness. It’s what rides in the SxS or tractor for me.

 

[CalG]

The electrics might be an ideal "Truck Saw",

Except that the real need would be an unexpected freezing rain in winter when the batteries are stone cold and two months since last use. ;-)

 

[nbking]

On Stihl's website, they show the different saws and difference between pro and homeowner. I have 2 homeowner saws. Ms271 and a new ms250. My 271 is 10 years old and cuts about 7 cords a year. I've used my 250 for about 2 cords so far, since xmas. No complaints on either, start right up, and run strong.

 

[Bob_Young]

From my "looking", Pro saws usually have higher grade internals. Up graded bearings, advanced cylinder porting/liners. Magnesium cases instead of alu etc.
I'm not sure about ignition components nor carburation. Seems like those would be pretty standard as far as price vs quality.

I'm looking hard at the 60cc Makita saw. (prograde) A lot of saw for $650.

Would be hard to learn about upgraded bearings and advanced liners/porting from the sales hype. The magnesium cases OTOH would be something they'd mention that would mean a lot. Seems like it could be an indicator of a well made saw.

 

[CalG]

Just a note:

My last saw purchase was the Husky 50cc xp "pro" . I selected this over the "rancher" or whatever, just for the features of the pro saw.
Of course, I can't for the life of me recall what those differences are. I do know I paid a bit more for the xp. It does serve me well, but a bit more HP would be handy when the full 18" is burried in a rock maple log.

Would be hard to learn about upgraded bearings and advanced liners/porting from the sales hype. The magnesium cases OTOH would be something they'd mention. Seems like it could be an indicator of a well made saw.

As I recall, I did have to dig deep. And today? who knows what they tell.
At the time, each saw had a brochure hanging from a chain as they were displayed .

 

[RandyT]

Somewhat blurred now but with Stihl the model number was a clue to the homeowner vs pro saw. The homeowner saws had an odd model number 017/ms170 021/023/025/027/031/039 and their MS equivalents And the pro saws had even model numbers 018/024/026/028/034/036 etc and their MS equivalents 180/240/260/280/181/241/261 etc

 

[xyz123]

One easy tell on a pro grade style chainsaw is the metal crankcase that splits in half for rebuilds and bolt on cylinder.

Most times the plastic cased stuff with clamshell design are not your pro grade stuff.
But there has been a few exceptions to this over the years is small saws that were pro grade.

 

[oosik]

I have two chainsaws. Both are Stihl. Large one with a 20" bar - small one with a 14" bar. Surprising - as I get older I tend to use the smaller one - more and more. Just last month I had to use the large one to fell a couple "bug infested" pines. Both were 24" on the butt. Once on the ground - I immediately switched to the smaller saw.

 

[5030]

From my "looking", Pro saws usually have higher grade internals. Up graded bearings, advanced cylinder porting/liners. Magnesium cases instead of alu etc.
I'm not sure about ignition components nor carburation. Seems like those would be pretty standard as far as price vs quality.

I'm looking hard at the 60cc Makita saw. (prograde) A lot of saw for $650.

Be careful with a Makita chainsaw and note where they are made at. They can be Chinese or Japanese depending. The Echo Timber Bear is about 150 clams less btw and is a very popular 'pro grade' saw. I have one and it's easy to improve on the power output with some simple mods, plus Echo offers a 5 year non arborist use warranty.

 

[dodge man]

I also own a MS250 and MS 261. I burned up the 250 so I bought the 261. I rebuilt the 250 for about $100 and I remember taking both out, I was cutting pretty good sized oak into rounds for firewood. I used the 250 first and it was running good and cutting well. I thought I’m such a fool for spending money on the 261, the 250 is just as good as the 261. Then I picked up the 261 and thought “oh yeah, this is what a saw should be”. For what is about the same weight the 261 makes 4hp vs 3hp for the 250.

Lighter weight and more power is what shows up in the pro saws. I agree with what others said about upgraded components. One I notice between the two is the air filters. The 250 is kind of chintzy and the 261 much larger and better. Bigger fuel and oil tank, bar nuts that don’t fall off when loosened (captive), less plastic and a bunch of little things that add up.

 

[kenmbz]

I have an Echo 620P (p=professional).
Has magnesium for most stuff (including sprocket cover) my other Echos have aluminum or plastic.
No cat muffler.
Decompression valve for (much) easier starts.
Clutch driven oiler
Dual bumper spikes (very useful)
Upgraded coil
dual ring piston

 

[Bob_Young]

Somewhat blurred now but with Stihl the model number was a clue to the homeowner vs pro saw. The homeowner saws had an odd model number 017/ms170 021/023/025/027/031/039 and their MS equivalents And the pro saws had even model numbers 018/024/026/028/034/036 etc and their MS equivalents 180/240/260/280/181/241/261 etc

Something like that would make it easy. Wonder why they blurred the scheme? Husqvarna had something similar going for a while. Think both my Huskies are 300 something, but they're big saws.

 

[Bob_Young]

One easy tell on a pro grade style chainsaw is the metal crankcase that splits in half for rebuilds and bolt on cylinder.

Most times the plastic cased stuff with clamshell design are not your pro grade stuff.
But there has been a few exceptions to this over the years is small saws that were pro grade.

The rebuildable aspect is one I overlooked and possibly the best one. Trouble is you'd have to know the saw before you went to buy one. Sales people normally aren't that knowledgeable. Still a split metal crankcase should stand out.