Detach 48x28 Garage - Footings

[Doorman63]

Liftmaster 8500 series openers can be bought on Amazon for around $400. Easy to install for a diy person.

Make sure your quote includes perimeter weatherseal on the jambs/header as well.


You could go uninsulated pan doors and insulate them yourself at a later time. You won’t have the steel interior face going this route.

That’d free up some $$ for windows in the top sections. Hard to add window sections later

 

[Pettrix]

I was able to find a different installer who will do it for $2k less, so around $5,900 for labor and doors.

Going with the "follow the pitch" 5:12 track install. I still have to install the 2x6 boards onto the ICF concrete wall. I will use Tapcons but my question is on the center board, since it will be seeing a lot of stress from that spring. Should I use TWO 3/8" Tapcons anchored into the concrete or TWO 1/2" Tapcons, to hold that 2x6 board onto the ICF wall?

 

[Doorman63]

Pre drill the board

In the picture it looks like the foam has been plowed out?

3/8 are fine
I like to see 2” into the concrete.
Use 4 total-one at each corner

You can also use wedge style anchors
3/8 should be more than enough as well

 

[Pettrix]

Pre drill the board

In the picture it looks like the foam has been plowed out?

3/8 are fine
I like to see 2” into the concrete.
Use 4 total-one at each corner

You can also use wedge style anchors
3/8 should be more than enough as well

That pic was just an example. Current garage doesn't have the boards in place yet and ICF foam still in place. I got a 6" long Tapcon screw so it will have 2" penetration into the concrete. Foam = 2.50" + Wood board 1.50" = 4.00" and that leaves me with 2" of concrete screw penetration into the 6" concrete wall.

I was planning on using TWO Tapcons to hold that board but you are saying use FOUR Tapcons ?

 

[bigtiller]

There is a lot of torque on the bottom side of that 2x.

I would go deeper than 2" and plenty of them, not just 2 or 4.

Also, I would swap out that 2x6 for a 2x10. That will give you more work area for screws to hold it down tight.

 

[Doorman63]

That pic was just an example. Current garage doesn't have the boards in place yet and ICF foam still in place. I got a 6" long Tapcon screw so it will have 2" penetration into the concrete. Foam = 2.50" + Wood board 1.50" = 4.00" and that leaves me with 2" of concrete screw penetration into the 6" concrete wall.

I was planning on using TWO Tapcons to hold that board but you are saying use FOUR Tapcons ?

How stiff is the foam?

I’m not a fan of any substrate that isn’t solid.
I’ve seen too many screw pops from fastening thru drywall.
I’ve also seen a door fall off the wall……

For a resi door…..

2x6x24” running vertical
Space the two holes top and bottom approx 2” up/down and 1” in from each edge


My 10x8 door opening with 16” of high lift

 

[ponytug]

I agree with @Doorman63 that cutting the foam out under the board will really help the strength of the attachment. There is all this torque at the end of that spring, and the fasteners holding it need something really solid to keep them from working themselves out.

I would really hate to have the spring end come loose. Have you considered a couple of inches of 3/4 or one inch plywood glued together rather than a two by?

All the best,

Peter

 

[Pettrix]

I agree with @Doorman63 that cutting the foam out under the board will really help the strength of the attachment. There is all this torque at the end of that spring, and the fasteners holding it need something really solid to keep them from working themselves out.

I would really hate to have the spring end come loose. Have you considered a couple of inches of 3/4 or one inch plywood glued together rather than a two by?

All the best,

Peter

The foam is very difficult to remove, it not impossible, as it has plastic ties every 8" oc that go through and through (inside to outside) and are encased in 6" of concrete. I can do the 2x10 for more surface area and run more Tapcons.

 

[Doorman63]

The foam is very difficult to remove, it not impossible, as it has plastic ties every 8" oc that go through and through (inside to outside) and are encased in 6" of concrete. I can do the 2x10 for more surface area and run more Tapcons.

What about plowing out top/bottom….laying some 2x4s horizontally and fastening the 2x6 to those?



Here’s a door mounted thru drywall with 1-5/8 lags…….not my install but I did get it back to “normal” looking alone in a couple hours.

I put 5/16x3” lags in every mounting point for this door and another one across the hallway……in a daycare facility.


Now you understand why I’m NOT a fan of mounting thru foam/drywall/etc.

 

[Pettrix]

I'll mount a 2x12 at the center location and then anchor it with numerous Tapcons into the concrete wall core.

The 12" wide wood surface area will provide a good load distribution point and the 3/8" Tapcons will provide excellent holding force