Electrical question.

   / Electrical question. #21  
I cannot even tell how that panel is fastened to the building
 
   / Electrical question. #22  
But being sloppy wouldnt cause his issues. See what happens after jumper is removed. I doubt that will solve issue though. It can be a variety of issues, usually concerning loose neutral connections somewheres. Ive also notices some brands of led lights will flicker no matter how clean of power you have.
 
   / Electrical question. #23  
Not so….in older homes, they only ran 3 wires between buildings and drove new ground rods at the secondary buildings. In these cases you leave the bonding jumper inplace. In more modern houses, they run 4 wires between buildings, and this is the case you dont want to bond ground and neutrals.
Good advice here, but looking at the sub panel in his picture, it appears (but maybe you see something different) that there are 4 inbound wires coming from the house. I also think I see a copper ground wire connecting the 2 busses.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Is your home’s internal wiring from breaker box to loads wired with aluminum conductors? Many homes built in the 1960s thru the mid 1970s have aluminum internal wiring.
No,
Is your home’s internal wiring from breaker box to loads wired with aluminum conductors? Many homes built in the 1960s thru the mid 1970s have aluminum internal wiring

Agree, you have a modern 4 wire fed subpanel. Lose the jumper bar. And that panel is a mess. if my employee did something like that, hed be unemployed that same day.

View attachment 816911
That's beautiful.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#25  
But being sloppy wouldnt cause his issues. See what happens after jumper is removed. I doubt that will solve issue though. It can be a variety of issues, usually concerning loose neutral connections somewheres. Ive also notices some brands of led lights will flicker no matter how clean of power you have.
The leds in the shop only flicker when I do laundry.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#26  
I want to thank everyone that has posted. We all have knowledge in something. Sharing that knowledge is what makes this a great place to hang out in our off time. I appreciate you all.

Dave
 
   / Electrical question. #27  
Good advice here, but looking at the sub panel in his picture, it appears (but maybe you see something different) that there are 4 inbound wires coming from the house. I also think I see a copper ground wire connecting the 2 busses.
Yup, i refered to this after my post, before his picture appeared.
 
   / Electrical question. #28  
I have a few led florescent lights, 4 foot tubes, that will occasionally flicker. Its nothing to do with the wiring….its the driver in the lamp. Some leds just do this.

ive had to deal with problems with led lights for years. Especially dimmable led’s that dont dim properly.
 
   / Electrical question. #29  
It does sound like you have a neutral issue somewhere.

If you have a voltmeter and know how to use it, you might want to check hot to neutral and hot to ground on your problem circuits.

If you have had some requiring done, it is also possible that you have a multi wire branch circuit that someone has misfired along the way.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Good advice here, but looking at the sub panel in his picture, it appears (but maybe you see something different) that there are 4 inbound wires coming from the house. I also think I see a copper ground wire connecting the 2 busses.
I looked and there is not a wire connecting the two busses.
 
   / Electrical question. #31  
Is there a “bond” going to the box from the two busses?

That would serve as the same as a wire between
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#32  
I removed the jumper bar and tightend all the connections. There were a few that were loose.
 
   / Electrical question. #33  
After removing the jumper from neutral bar to ground bar you need to bond the ground bar to the panel. Using the bond jumper from the right side of the panel. Looks like it is just holding the neutral wire to back of panel.
 

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   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#34  
After removing the jumper from neutral bar to ground bar you need to bond the ground bar to the panel. Using the bond jumper from the right side of the panel. Looks like it is just holding the neutral wire to back of panel.
Is there a special connector I need to get? Why is it located on the opposite side of the ground bar?
 
   / Electrical question. #35  
No. Use the item I have circled. It can be used on either side of the panel. But the ground wires are in the bar on the left and neutrals on the right. The panel box needs to be grounded. Use the jumper (circled) to do this.
 
   / Electrical question.
  • Thread Starter
#36  
No. Use the item I have circled. It can be used on either side of the panel. But the ground wires are in the bar on the left and neutrals on the right. The panel box needs to be grounded. Use the jumper (circled) to do this.
So your saying I have to ground the ground bar to the panel.
 
   / Electrical question. #38  
So your saying I have to ground the ground bar to the panel.
Yes, the ground bar needs to be bonded to the panel.
Neutral bar isolated from the panel.
 
   / Electrical question. #39  
After removing the jumper from neutral bar to ground bar you need to bond the ground bar to the panel. Using the bond jumper from the right side of the panel. Looks like it is just holding the neutral wire to back of panel.
That is a very good catch there sir!
I don't notice a #6 solid bare conductor going to two ground rods from the ground bus, ground rods need to be 6' apart. If this is done, I Just didn't see it in the picture.
 
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   / Electrical question. #40  
It is obvious that it's not a professional install but, this should have been done even if it was neutral to ground connected.
 

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