I currently run a Kubota M6800 to use a 7' land pride brush cutter and 7' snowblower. 68 hp. Even with sharp blades, some real thick grasses makes tractor work harder than i'd like. I usually mow in first to get it all. Would 90hp give me the umph I'm looking for and perhaps give me enough to maybe go to a single batwing 10 footer. Some mowing is also red brush and tag alders. If I can drive over it it gets cut. Would not use the 10' for heavy brush. Thoughts?
hp needed
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JJT
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Working hard is what tractors are made for, I think you are fine. 68 hp should be more than enough for a 7' blower and brush cutter.
your M series utility tractor should do just fine. btw, think 68hp is the rated engine hp, the pto hp is prob around 62-3 hp. that should be fine to run what you describe. patience is a virtue cutting rampant growth. just look at the pto hp rating for each implement you're considering regards
btw i'd steer clear of finish mowers that aren't designed for heavy growth
btw i'd steer clear of finish mowers that aren't designed for heavy growth
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5030
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Is it mechanically injected or common rail injection? A good Kubota tech with the knowledge can turn up a mechanically injected engine quite easily (if they know what they are doing) that is. Had both my M9's turned up about 10% this summer with no adverse impacts at all, but like I said, the tech has to know what they are doing and it has to be mechanically injected. Both mine are now making a bit over 90 PTO on the dyno. Didn't adversely impact fuel usage at all either and they don't 'seem' to be running any hotter though I don't have an exhaust gas pyrometer on either one.
I do notice a 'seat of the pants' torque rise when running them and utilizing maximum power, something I do quite often. Both mine will pull my bat wing shredder and my big flat back Land Pride shredder no issue and just about anything short of saplings.
Tractors are all meant to be worked and worked hard and I don't 'spare the rod' with either of them.
I do notice a 'seat of the pants' torque rise when running them and utilizing maximum power, something I do quite often. Both mine will pull my bat wing shredder and my big flat back Land Pride shredder no issue and just about anything short of saplings.
Tractors are all meant to be worked and worked hard and I don't 'spare the rod' with either of them.
Kioti Dave
Gold Member
I run a 7' rough cut with my 45 hp Kioti. Can cut pretty thick grass - 4' tall without much problem. The hydrostat is nice as I can adjust the speed on the fly. 90hp should easily run a 10'.
oldnslo
Super Member
What do you consider working it to hard? Example: Pulling the engine RPM down from full throttle of 2500, to 2400, 2200, 2000, etc.
I figure in that example 2200 and above is working conditions. 2000 for a short time grunting, dropping below 2000 for extended periods slow down.
We had 8 ft snow blower on 85 HP and you could kill the engine if you tried but a little common sense and worked fine. Didn’t have a brush hog since we cut everything for cattle feed.
I pull 5 ft brush hog with 20 PTO HP today and have mowed road ditch where grass and weeds was over the hood. Just went slow and let the mower do its thing.
I figure in that example 2200 and above is working conditions. 2000 for a short time grunting, dropping below 2000 for extended periods slow down.
We had 8 ft snow blower on 85 HP and you could kill the engine if you tried but a little common sense and worked fine. Didn’t have a brush hog since we cut everything for cattle feed.
I pull 5 ft brush hog with 20 PTO HP today and have mowed road ditch where grass and weeds was over the hood. Just went slow and let the mower do its thing.
pmsmechanic
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Honestly I don't see what the problem is. I'm mowing with 5.6 hp/foot (28 pto hp/5 = 5.6, 35 engine/5 = 7) and it's very adequate for what I'm doing.
You are mowing with 9.7 hp/foot (68/7 = 9.7).
And yes the first time I go through stuff it's slow going but as you keep up with the mowing you can move right along.
And now your talking about a bigger tractor and a wider mower and going down to 9 hp/foot. (90/10 = 9) I'm wondering if your not just looking to buy bigger equipment. If you want bigger stuff just go buy it but your going to need to come up with some more logical justifications.... if you need them.
You are mowing with 9.7 hp/foot (68/7 = 9.7).
And yes the first time I go through stuff it's slow going but as you keep up with the mowing you can move right along.
And now your talking about a bigger tractor and a wider mower and going down to 9 hp/foot. (90/10 = 9) I'm wondering if your not just looking to buy bigger equipment. If you want bigger stuff just go buy it but your going to need to come up with some more logical justifications.... if you need them.
Slowpoke Slim
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You're at 62 pto hp on a 7' cutter.
That should be more than enough. What's your version of "working too hard"?
Is it overheating? Could just be chaff in the radiator, which is the bane of all mowers really.
That should be more than enough. What's your version of "working too hard"?
Is it overheating? Could just be chaff in the radiator, which is the bane of all mowers really.
Don't know about the injection. It's an '03.
The chaff in the fall has to be dealt with every couple times around. I keep the bucket on and it really helps catch a lot of leaves and such to keep it clear the best I can. Once the temp guage gets about halfway obove normal, I'll get off and address the plugging.
5030
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Look at the right side of the engine. If it's mechanical injection, it will have an injection pump close coupled to the hydraulic pump which is SOP for almost every mechanically injected Kubota. The pump will have injector lines on the top of it as well. Common rail engines don't. Kind of surprised you don't know that as when you change the fuel filter (you do, do that I assume), you have to bleed the air from the injection system afterwards and that entails using the valve on top of the pump to expel the trapped air.
Haven't mowed some of these areas in a few years and most of it was above the loader arms. Can't go any slower than first gear without riding the clutch! If I had time to mow it all twice a year it wouldn't be an issue. Some years am too busy to get at secondary projects. There's a line between doing and over doing. Ill air on the side of caution. Thanks
5030
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Sounds like it's time for a reverse flow cooling fan. I totally eliminated both of mine and replaced both with large diameter 12 volt reversable cooling fans that fit quite nicely in the existing radiator shroud and I removed the power robbing fixed fan assembly as well. I leave mine on suck most of the time and reverse them when the temp gage climbs past center and additionally, the increased air flow really positively impacts the AC condenser efficiency as well as the charge air intercooler.
scootr
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I run a 7 ft flail with MX5200 no problem. Patience in thick growth makes a big difference and a better cut. 45 hp at the PTO
5030
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No clutch on either of my M's. Both are gear drive with hydraulic shuttles so no clutch at all. Just a damper plate in the bellhousing.
Last time I changed the filter I filled it, put it on and didnt have yo do anything and it started. I'll look at it the next trip up to the barn.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
I pull a 12 foot batwing with a 70 hp tractor that's probably around 60 hp at the PTO. I've never had any issues with it. I've mowed stuff that was over my hood that I had to go into a lower gear, but most of my mowing is between 2.3 to 3 mph. I can go faster, but its too rough of a ride.
WM75Guy
Elite Member
I don't think HP is your problem, maybe you are asking too much of the equipment. I mowed my 14 acres with my 6' cutter on my TC40DA which is 33 HP PTO. And it did bog down some in really tall grass and brush. I moved it over to the Workmaster 75 which is 60 HP PTO. I can still bog down if I go too fast. So I normally mow at 2.4 MPH, sometimes I have to slow down to 1.6 MPH. I am looking at a 12' batwing now to be able to mow in 1/2 the time.
Perhaps you need something like Lineman North Florida has for cutting the heavy places, a skid steer with a rough cutter.
Pictures from a skid steer mowing contractor
Perhaps you need something like Lineman North Florida has for cutting the heavy places, a skid steer with a rough cutter.
Pictures from a skid steer mowing contractor
ptsg
Super Member
What are you mowing that requires you to go slower that 1st gear in Low range? Assuming you're in low range of course.
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