Do You Have a Tractor Shed/Barn?

[bigtiller]

I like to vary the weight in my ballast box. For just about every loader job I keep it on the light side. It is 2/3 full of a mix of concrete, scrap steel and some granite boulders.

For heavy pallet fork work I add old wheel weights and suitcase weights. When the rear tires are squatting is how I judge when to stop adding weight.

 

[WinterDeere]

I like to vary the weight in my ballast box. For just about every loader job I keep it on the light side. It is 2/3 full of a mix of concrete, scrap steel and some granite boulders.

For heavy pallet fork work I add old wheel weights and suitcase weights. When the rear tires are squatting is how I judge when to stop adding weight.

Same. That's why I welded bars to mine, to carry suitcase weights. Easy enough with most boxes, mine just happens to be the Deere brand version.

 

[wolc123]

Close call here, I’m thankful that I replaced my worn out 6 ft light duty bush hog with a 5 ft medium duty. I only had a couple inches to spare in my new tractor shed:

Sometimes, you got to size your equipment to fit your shed.

One other nice thing about the 5 footer, is that my old Ford 8n can lift it, while it couldn’t quite put the 6 footer up. Maybe, I’ll have to get an overrunning coupler for it, and see how it runs it. Gasoline has been way cheaper than diesel quite a lot lately, and it might be more economical, cutting with that.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I agree, I can't see needing any more than what the loader lift capacity is for rear ballast. In actuality probably only needs to be 50-80% as you already have the weight of the tractor engine, rear axle and all the fluids behind the fulcrum of the front axle to counter the loader leverage. Then if you have filled tires you have even more weight.

I weighed my concrete ballast box and it's 990lbs, my loader lift capacity is 2150 and have been able to stall out the loader lifting and the rear wheels did not come off the ground and I don't even have 50% for ballast.

One thing I didn't mention is that I have a quicktach which puts the weight out an additional 4". Those 4" makes quite a difference.

 

[gatornapper]

I did for 20+ years.

A friend took down a nice 20' x 24' aluminum carport for an addition to his house and I brought it home for my sweet 2010 JD 5045E I've had since new.

Entrance was on left, large 2x's nailed to front right poles for storage....

But then I began restoring and collecting old Porsches in 2017, and they needed a garage. So not having funds to build a new one for my 3 old Porsches (914, 928, 944 S), I put walls and garage doors on my tractor shed and my poor JD sits in the weather. Our house is large log home I and my sons built so we used log siding for front of garage.

Thinking of putting lean-to roof on left or right of lower garage for the JD.

 

[Dunno]

Previous owner of my place built this barn with overhanging shed roofs to keep equipment out of direct weather. He was good at using old telephone poles. Only thing is the air is salty where I live near the coast. If equipment is not completely out of the coastal air it will start to get surface rust.

 

[WinterDeere]

Only thing is the air is salty where I live near the coast. If equipment is not completely out of the coastal air it will start to get surface rust.

... and even then, some!

Loosely-related story: The neighbor to our beach house had some money, and used to show up with a random fleet of supercars from Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, etc. What always amazed me is not that he could afford to buy such a car, that's not such a high bar, but that he apparently had so much money he had very little care for if they got damaged. I remember looking out my window during an absolutely terrible hail storm, at his $200k Lamborghini sitting in the driveway next door, just taking the beating.

We've all heard of "F-you money", the ability to waste money to screw an adversary. But "F-me money" must be a whole other level.

 

[NYlumberman]

I built this pole barn to keep my “stuff” out of the weather. Overall footprint 48’X48’ with 16’ clearance inside, 12’ eaves on the lean to, 12’X12’ doors on each end.

 

[wthforever]

I do have a drive through tractor shed for my tractors, and a more closed barn for my welding trailer and CTL.

Have to admit that if everything is dusty, I'm prone to pull them all out to get washed off by an impending rain though.

I've not built anything to house my implements yet... That would take quite a bit of cover to put a roof over harrows, discs, batwing cutters, and on and on...

What do you guys use? (If anything)

All I have is an old tractor, a few implements, and an ATV, this would work great for me. Did you buy a kit and build it yourself, or have someone install for you?

 

[areid]

I recently have added storage to two of my previously built buildings. The first was an old heritage barn I moved I'm from 9 miles away. I added a 10 wing on that that can shed my L5240 Kubota with cab. Then I added a shed roof on the side of my Quonset. This was initially designed to house my travel trailer but I found it was like having nothing at all unless I enclosed it. Tough to back the trailer in ther now but still doable. I moved the barn in and finished the upstairs for pony club and 4 H events. Also added a stall and hay shelter on the back of the barn last year with used components. Always a project.