Prices on driveway paving

[Joel/ak]

Good info to ponder I got a wrap around drive and just in front of the garage, an area about 24x30 is all washboard.

It's a water issue since both sides of the wraparound are down hill.

Years ago I got water to move but damage has been done.

That section needs to be replaced. Thought about concrete but not sure which way to go

Learned alot from here on this thread. Thanks

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, my little sketch, I know those slopes are extremes, I just drew it that way to better illustrate what I was trying to show; I hope your not working with that kinda slope

 

[Forest_Man]

Yes. Two or three points to think about though.

Depending on your landscape, topo, ect, you might need to get that water from your hillside ditch to the other side; so that means pipe (or a concrete lined swale crossing the drive). If you use pipe; go bigger and longer than you think. Dont use 4" flex pipe; I'm talking about an actual culvert. You want atleast 4-6 ft from the edge of the cross drain to the driving surface. No fun to find the edge on a rainy night with a trailer...

I visualize it. Thank you.

 

[Forest_Man]

your going to need to create a dirtch/swale that keeps the water from running down your driving surface.

Very clear.

Can this swale be created with a rental mini excavator? - the road is existing already, but missing the swale on the inside then the culvert crossing over to the other side.

 

[Forest_Man]

BTW, my little sketch, I know those slopes are extremes, I just drew it that way to better illustrate what I was trying to show; I hope your not working with that kinda slope

I am not. And the road is already existing. My next step is to remove the water way, possibly with the swale detail you pointed it out.

 

[paulsharvey]

Very clear.

Can this swale be created with a rental mini excavator? - the road is existing already, but missing the swale on the inside then the culvert crossing over to the other side.

Yes. I would want something like an 18" smooth bucket. I would paint the swale location with marking paint; start at the top of the hill, tracks pointed in the direction of travel, stablizer bucket center of your drive, pointed down hill; and work from the road. Basically one or many two scopes (about 8-12" deep), rotate the cab, and throw that material on the outside of your roadway, down hill. Then track 2-3 feet, take another scoop. Working top to bottom. Not a deep ditch really, until you hit an area that forces you to take more.

 

[paulsharvey]

The ditch/swale will be pretty slow, but im guessing if you can run a hoe, you make 500 LF in the first day? Maybe 800LF/day after that?

Are we dealing with any rock or shale in the hill face? Any seeps, springs, constantly wet areas?

 

[paulsharvey]

Just so you know, you Can do this ditch work with about 6-10 passes with a angle and tilt grader blade. You would work top to bottom; with the inside corner tilted down, and also swept to roll the windrow into the roadway, maybe 3-4" deep per pass; then relevel the blade, and then sweep your windrow towards the outside with successive passes. If there is rock of any sort, the rear grader blade is going to be pretty much a non-starter though.

This is where it becomes a question of your time, ability, and patience. Also, not all rear graders allow the tilt of the level; just the change in angle.

Something like this 84" King Kutter rear blade (HD-RB-84) would work; but is $2200; but something like the King Kutter 84" at RK (5000-RMB-84-RR) doesn't have the tilt, just pivot, at $1700. You can still get a couple degrees of tilt with the lower 3 point link adjustment; but I don't know if that's enough to effectively cut the ditch?

Yes, a Box blade can also be adjusted using the lower links; but it doesn't give you the ability to "hook" that material out, or to windrow it.

 

[Code54]

Very clear.

Can this swale be created with a rental mini excavator? - the road is existing already, but missing the swale on the inside then the culvert crossing over to the other side.

Yes, very easily. I recently did a 1/4 mile of road with our mini and a 36" smooth trenching bucket. It will not take you all that long especially if you can dump it within the swing of the excavator (or in a dump trailer/truck).

Here is another older sample of how I cut a shallow ditch/swell that has worked great for about 2 years now. The hill to the right goes up about 50' and this swell/ditch allows me to control the runoff to the point the road has never received any damage from storms since installed. This is also about ¼- 1/5 of a mile and I was able to do it between lunch and dinner to give you a time reference. (I hit very little rock, however)

I did install a few drains/pipes to take water under the road and made sure to crown the road to aid in drainage.

 

[Forest_Man]

The ditch/swale will be pretty slow, but im guessing if you can run a hoe, you make 500 LF in the first day? Maybe 800LF/day after that?

Are we dealing with any rock or shale in the hill face? Any seeps, springs, constantly wet areas?

I am renting the excavator for drainage work near the house and i'll try to take advantage of the rental time and see how hard it is creating these drainage runs on the driveway. If I feel comfortable with the task, then I'll extend rental and continue the task.

The entire place seems to be infested with rocks. I need to talk to an expert that can explain what type of soil we have up here.

But here is how it looks after the timber sale, when they bulldozed trees around:

And here is how it looks at certain places: