Trailer JD 3039R

   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#41  
dieselscout, Your rig must be quite a bit longer than my 16 ft long outfit is. I put it on the trailer and discovered that I have more room than I expected. When I want to travel with mower, I may put that under the bucket and lift it into the trailer with the FEL while backing up the ramp. But for sure, there is quite a bit of room to jockey around. I'm am glad (so far) that I did not buy the 20 ft. rig. Ill post a pick in a minute.

I think I'll use a combination of chains and straps for holding things down.

With the block up against the front of the trailer, I have way too much tongue weight, so I would move back on the trailer somewhere.
20240810_122541.jpg
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #42  
alexpops, yes you gave the op a link - but I really think he was asking you "which" one of those "Many" links you chose to use. I really find it distasteful when someone asks a question about a specific component and they get a generic link - that lists "hundreds of variants to choose from" and they really wanted to know what you chose to use! Is it really that to hard to answer a specific question? Following thread and just curious about specific answers.
 
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   / Trailer JD 3039R #43  
I hate strapping down my tractor, especially the front. I usually end up routing the straps over the front tube of the FEL, and then attaching to the front weight bar on the tractor, but it's hokey. I seem to remember reading somewhere that strapping to the front axle was a bad idea, but can't remember if that was in the manual or just someone on a forum. I really wish Deere had given us some hooks or eyes to attach to in the front.

Rear, I go to the axle or loops either side of drawbar, center rear. But since my tractor is towed backwards, rear straps aren't having to handle the hold-back under braking that the front straps see.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #44  
dieselscout, Your rig must be quite a bit longer than my 16 ft long outfit is. I put it on the trailer and discovered that I have more room than I expected. When I want to travel with mower, I may put that under the bucket and lift it into the trailer with the FEL while backing up the ramp. But for sure, there is quite a bit of room to jockey around. I'm am glad (so far) that I did not buy the 20 ft. rig. Ill post a pick in a minute.

I think I'll use a combination of chains and straps for holding things down.

With the block up against the front of the trailer, I have way too much tongue weight, so I would move back on the trailer somewhere.
View attachment 884684
I think your picture proves my point.

If you had a 5’ rotary cutter on your 3 point your grapple would be at or beyond the end of the trailer.

The result is you would have no way to adjust the load (forward or backward) in order to get the tongue weight needed.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#45  
I think your picture proves my point.

If you had a 5’ rotary cutter on your 3 point your grapple would be at or beyond the end of the trailer.

The result is you would have no way to adjust the load (forward or backward) in order to get the tongue weight needed.
I have at least 2 options. First, drive on forwards and put the bucket over the rail on the tongue. Second drive on backwards with the mower suspended from the FEL. The latter, I am 90% certain will work.

Winter Deere. You are certainly right about the need for tiedown loops in the front. I wonder how JD transports them?
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #46  
Regarding Deere tie downs, my 2320 has a weight bar on the front with holes that are very convenient for hooks. Do the larger tractors have this?
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Regarding Deere tie downs, my 2320 has a weight bar on the front with holes that are very convenient for hooks. Do the larger tractors have this?
My 3039 has nothing
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #48  
Looking at your picture the trailer might be a little nose heavy but I’m guessing. I think 18 feet is going to serve you well. Nice looking rig.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #49  
I hate strapping down my tractor, especially the front. I usually end up routing the straps over the front tube of the FEL, and then attaching to the front weight bar on the tractor, but it's hokey. I seem to remember reading somewhere that strapping to the front axle was a bad idea, but can't remember if that was in the manual or just someone on a forum. I really wish Deere had given us some hooks or eyes to attach to in the front.

Rear, I go to the axle or loops either side of drawbar, center rear. But since my tractor is towed backwards, rear straps aren't having to handle the hold-back under braking that the front straps see.
You could add a plate and shackle like I did to my Kioti, or weld some hooks to the grill guard / weight bracket.
 

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   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#51  
Deere makes a weight bracket. Or you could use these: BOLT-ON TIEDOWNS
I was just looking at the weight bar. It's about 1 3/8 square steel. I could loop the chain over that, but it could slide sideways a bit. Thinking about that one some more though. There is a way to do this.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #52  
I have at least 2 options. First, drive on forwards and put the bucket over the rail on the tongue. Second drive on backwards with the mower suspended from the FEL. The latter, I am 90% certain will work.
That's exactly what I do, as I have the same tractor (same chassis, 6 fewer horses) and the same size trailer. I have indeed transported my tractor with brush cutter, and getting the weight balanced was not impossible, but did probably take me a few tries of configuration to get it right. That was a few years back, and I've hauled it in enough other configurations now that I don't remember exactly what I did.

I can say I almost never use my brush cutter and FEL together, so I may have left the bucket or even entire FEL at home. In other cases, I've been known to drop the bucket way up at the front of the trailer, and then back the rest of the rig on after. Another option you already named is to put the brush cutter under the FEL, which especially if you're dropping the bucket up front, can be done pretty easily and safely.

All of this is kind of a PITA, as I think I already said in my first post in this thread, but it works perfectly fine and is the compromise you make for the convenience of towing a smaller trailer in tight spaces. Everything is a trade-off, and the right trailer for one guy is not always the right one for the next, even when hauling the same equipment, depending on frequency and variability of configurations.

Winter Deere. You are certainly right about the need for tiedown loops in the front. I wonder how JD transports them?
I was just looking at the weight bar. It's about 1 3/8 square steel. I could loop the chain over that, but it could slide sideways a bit. Thinking about that one some more though. There is a way to do this.
I have a handful of 2" heavy duty nylon strap loops, I think they came off a Bell Telephone truck and were used for pulling telephone poles. I loop one or two of them thru that front weight bar in a choker type configuration, and then hook my ratchet strap hooks onto those in a way they can never come undone (feed thru hook and double it back on itself). If you're tucking your brush cutter under the loader, I'd probably leave the bucket off (or parked up front on trailer), and then route these straps under the loader. That way, you can lower the loader onto them, which might keep it off the brush cutter without additional blocking.

I've complained a lot about Deere's lack of towing hooks on the front of these tractors, but I've been told nearly all brands are equally bad, on this point.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #53  
I think per DOT, that technically, you should have chains attached at 4 corners, plus straps or chains on each implement. Idea being that if a chain let's go, you still have 3 holding the tractor (4-5 if you have the loader & bushhog strapped in).
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #54  
I think per DOT, that technically, you should have chains attached at 4 corners, plus straps or chains on each implement. Idea being that if a chain let's go, you still have 3 holding the tractor (4-5 if you have the loader & bushhog strapped in).
I'm not sure about this. Not my area of expertise, but I know I've seen many roll-backs hauling cars with only chains to the rear of the rollback, and a single winch cable on the front. I've also seen only straps on all four corners, when they use the over-the-tire things. I've even seen them run a pair of chains from frame to front, ease the winch back down onto the chains, then use only straps to the rear.

While not all laws are always enforced, with these rollbacks driving right thru town past law enforcement on a daily basis, I'd have to imagine this would be easy fine money for the police to exercise, if it were illegal.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #55  
I think per DOT, that technically, you should have chains attached at 4 corners, plus straps or chains on each implement. Idea being that if a chain let's go, you still have 3 holding the tractor (4-5 if you have the loader & bushhog strapped in).
Pretty sure if you read the rules;
a) not a commercial hauler
b) that’s for 10,000 # and above equipment loads

I do believe in a 4 point tie down and on smaller stuff, there are multiple ways to accomplish the task.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #56  
I'm not sure about this. Not my area of expertise, but I know I've seen many roll-backs hauling cars with only chains to the rear of the rollback, and a single winch cable on the front. I've also seen only straps on all four corners, when they use the over-the-tire things. I've even seen them run a pair of chains from frame to front, ease the winch back down onto the chains, then use only straps to the rear.

While not all laws are always enforced, with these rollbacks driving right thru town past law enforcement on a daily basis, I'd have to imagine this would be easy fine money for the police to exercise, if it were illegal.
Police usually aren’t as concerned with how a local tow is performed. Speed of clearing a scene and getting traffic flowing again are usually the higher priority.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #57  
Police usually aren’t as concerned with how a local tow is performed. Speed of clearing a scene and getting traffic flowing again are usually the higher priority.
True. But my best friend drove a rollback for a local dealership network when we were in college, and they had a whole fleet of them moving cars around every night. At least around here, clearing accidents was only a fraction of their total car hauling volume, hauling cars from owner's homes or between dealers seemed to be much more of their total weekly hauling.

He used to crash at my house when he was on-call, because I lived much closer to his territory than he did. That meant I got to see or hear about a lot of what he was hauling. :D
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #58  
True. But my best friend drove a rollback for a local dealership network when we were in college, and they had a whole fleet of them moving cars around every night. At least around here, clearing accidents was only a fraction of their total car hauling volume, hauling cars from owner's homes or between dealers seemed to be much more of their total weekly hauling.

He used to crash at my house when he was on-call, because I lived much closer to his territory than he did. That meant I got to see or hear about a lot of what he was hauling. :D
Sure, you gotta do what you gotta do. We sold our towing business in 2018. Different companies have different contracts. Motor clubs used to be a hot ticket for steady work, dealership dx’ing usually didn’t pay as well, being on the police call list was highest paying but isn’t exactly steady work. Accident calls usually billed the highest rates. If you got two at a time, hauling for auction sites paid pretty good too.

All of the ways you mentioned are technically ok, winch cable being the weakest and offering the most bounce. Bounce one off the truck/trailer and good luck getting insured again.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Those bolt on tie downs might be just the ticket.

I was told by the trailer dealer that 4 chains was the law, but not enforced on the small stuff hauled by civilians.
 
   / Trailer JD 3039R #60  
RjCorazza and WinterDeere, thanks for the tips on the bathroom scale method. I'm ashamed that I did not think of it myself. A little 7th grade geometry and Intro Physics is pretty straight forward. These forums are really a heck of a resource.

I can run a chain through a shackle on the rear hitch, but I don't know how I'm going to grab on to the front. I'm sure I can figure that out eventually.
I use soft axle straps that loop around the front axle and then the chain hooks to their loops:

20170330_200610-X3.jpg



The axle straps look like this:
4114fca24ff3e6a3f78d728a893a4886df5a7e2a_1024x.jpg
 

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