F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

[Seven Gables]

Actually if my old foggy noodle is remembering correctly that special tool was a pipe with two ears and had two uses . You set the leathers into top of cylinders then placed the cup shaped nut on top , then placed the pipe in the bowl of the nut and whacked pipe with small sledgehammer. This drove both pieces down into cylinder . Once leather was in cylinder remove nut and drive leather over threaded rod onto brass backing plate, the pipe allowed threaded rod to fit inside it as you hammered.
Then once leather was seated to backing plate and threaded rod was thru the leather you’d put nut on and tighten.
Been a long time but that’s best I remember

 

[TractorTech]

Here is some info on your new sprayer.
A source for Myers parts is:

Your one stop pump shop and equipment

atlanticpump.net

If they don't work, DM me and I can see if some of the guys I know out here in California can help. A lot of the Myers and Bean pumps soraying orchards and vineyards here wuth them still.

 

[r8f1k]

Thank you gentlemen for all the help!!!

Odd question perhaps, but here it goes. On this sprayer there is a large filter on the tank feed side. Cast iron housing with a flip up lid, about 5" in diameter and 7" deep with a pleated perforated brass filter. This goes up to the pump and from there the contents get pressurized to the 3/4" pressure lines. As the pressurized contents make their way back to the sprayer nozzles, there are 2, left and right side, cast iron filters. They are about 3" in diameter with a 1" diameter screen in the center for sediment. I wouldn't mind keeping them in place, however, they need a rubber ring to seal. They are round and have no flats on them to grab with a tool. I'm sure a strap wrench would be fine, but they seem a little tough to get to. They are under the body of the trailer and are tucked pretty far in there. After all that, my question is this, can I use a 3/4" Lenz hydraulic filter housing and a spin on hydraulic filter to keep sediment out of the sprayer nozzles? I would like to use a spin on filter if for nothing else, there is no cleaning it out. Replace and go. The 1" diameter screens were LOADED with grit. To me, it seems there needs to be something there which is fine, but for the sake of winterizing and maintenance, will a spin on work?

 

[Seven Gables]

I would say no a spin on filter won’t work, they need to be a fine mesh screen. Those are your boom or manifold screens. As my picture shows mine have a ball valve in the end . When I get done spraying for the day I put about 100 gallons of clean water in tank open these ball valves and blow clean water thru the inside of screens to flush them out. Maybe 30 second flush on each side is all it takes.
Do yours happen to have a pipe plug in them that you could replace with a ball valve? It’s a great time saver to be able to flush the screens without the hassle of disassembly. Also if could remount them to a more accessible location would be a big plus.

 

[r8f1k]

I would say no a spin on filter won’t work, they need to be a fine mesh screen. Those are your boom or manifold screens. As my picture shows mine have a ball valve in the end . When I get done spraying for the day I put about 100 gallons of clean water in tank open these ball valves and blow clean water thru the inside of screens to flush them out. Maybe 30 second flush on each side is all it takes.
Do yours happen to have a pipe plug in them that you could replace with a ball valve? It’s a great time saver to be able to flush the screens without the hassle of disassembly. Also if could remount them to a more accessible location would be a big plus.

Sadly, mine have no pipe plugs to drain the filters. They have to be unscrewed and drained by pulling off the whole cap. The cap does have a stainless steel hex nut on the top that hold in the screens. I wonder if I can remove the nut or make an adapter to add in a drain........I am considering moving the filters up to the front just to make it easier to get to them. Currently, you would have to get on your back and drain. Having worked on lots of equipment over the years, I can literally feel the water running down my arm as I type this.......

 

[r8f1k]

I would say no a spin on filter won’t work, they need to be a fine mesh screen. Those are your boom or manifold screens. As my picture shows mine have a ball valve in the end . When I get done spraying for the day I put about 100 gallons of clean water in tank open these ball valves and blow clean water thru the inside of screens to flush them out. Maybe 30 second flush on each side is all it takes.
Do yours happen to have a pipe plug in them that you could replace with a ball valve? It’s a great time saver to be able to flush the screens without the hassle of disassembly. Also if could remount them to a more accessible location would be a big plus.

Do you have a part number for that filter on your sprayer? Or do you have a recommended unit?

 

[TractorTech]

Agree with sevengables, it is a strainer, not a filter. The screens are usually 50 mesh, but can be finer.

Here is one on Ebay with a 100 mesh and a good price. SPRAYING SYSTEMS - TEE JET - DUCTILE IRON STRAINER - 9830-3/4TW-100 | eBay

Teejet Screen, Stainless Steel 50 Mesh, 9830

Teejet Screen, Stainless Steel 50 Mesh, 9830 SCREEN,SS,50M,9830

www.spraysmarter.com

Also, nylon strainers with a cleanout plug good to 200 psi: TEEJET 3/4" 126 SERIES LINE STRAINER W/ 50 MESH


Just noticed my attachments didn't all load. See my previous post

 

[r8f1k]

My strainers are exactly like the units on eBay that you listed. The caps are a little different, but 90% the same. That stainless cap may be able to be pulled out, but I am going to have to heat it up to get it out. There was a TON of white sediment in the column of the stainer. If that plug is a NPT, I am sure I can add an elbow and a ball valve.

 

[Seven Gables]

My strainers are exactly like the units on eBay that you listed. The caps are a little different, but 90% the same. That stainless cap may be able to be pulled out, but I am going to have to heat it up to get it out. There was a TON of white sediment in the column of the stainer. If that plug is a NPT, I am sure I can add an elbow and a ball valve.

Good news , those iron strainers are also the exact same as my FMC sprayer had and yes take the plugs out and add ball valves . You mentioned moving the strainers to front, not really a good idea . There placed in the back right before the manifolds so all the piping gets strained just before the nozzles.

 

[r8f1k]

Another question, right now my 100 gallon FMC with 12 nozzles., I am using TeeJet TX-VS18, orange cone sprayer nozzles. I can't remember who I contacted back at TeeJet to get my calculations a few years ago, but those numbers worked great then. Now that this sprayer has 18 nozzles, I assume I should change my application rate per nozzle. Any thoughts on what color I should change it to for this sprayer?