jyoutz
Super Member
Mine has flip down jacks attached to the trailer.
Car Hauler vs Utility Trailer
- Thread starter zachofalltrades
- Start date
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Jaybr
Gold Member
I've got a really old 10k 20' equipment trailer, a 7k 18' car hauler, and an 18' enclosed motorcycle trailer. I'm thinking about selling the car hauler and enclosed trailer and getting a 14k 20' aluminum gooseneck. The new Yanmar is too heavy for my car hauler, and the old equipment trailer is going to my son along with the Kioti.
The reason for aluminum is weight savings. My truck is a Nissan XD, kind of between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck. Max towing is higher with a gooseneck, but still only 11 or 11.5k. Never towed with a gooseneck but my understanding is it's better than bumper pull. This setup would give me ~8500 capacity which would be enough for the tractor with implements.
Anyone towed with gooseneck and can share experience?
One tip on rails: My car hauler doesn't have them, 2 weeks ago I loaded (drove) my 76 Bronco onto the trailer. Without getting into the long explanation of why, the front passenger tire ended up going off the side of the trailer in front of the fender. Didn't do any damage to the Bronco, only a minor dent in the trailer fender. Needless to say, even a small rail would have stopped this, and the trailer will have rails before I haul another car/truck. Getting the Bronco back on the trailer solo was not fun!
The reason for aluminum is weight savings. My truck is a Nissan XD, kind of between a 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck. Max towing is higher with a gooseneck, but still only 11 or 11.5k. Never towed with a gooseneck but my understanding is it's better than bumper pull. This setup would give me ~8500 capacity which would be enough for the tractor with implements.
Anyone towed with gooseneck and can share experience?
One tip on rails: My car hauler doesn't have them, 2 weeks ago I loaded (drove) my 76 Bronco onto the trailer. Without getting into the long explanation of why, the front passenger tire ended up going off the side of the trailer in front of the fender. Didn't do any damage to the Bronco, only a minor dent in the trailer fender. Needless to say, even a small rail would have stopped this, and the trailer will have rails before I haul another car/truck. Getting the Bronco back on the trailer solo was not fun!
jyoutz
Super Member
I have a gooseneck stock trailer. They handle so much better than a bumper pull. They put the tongue weight in the truck bed over the axle, not at the rear of the truck. You will enjoy it. My 20’ trailer is a bumper pull only because I got such a good deal on it an the goosenecks were considerably more.
Have a 16 ft. utility trailer. Haul a TC34DA New Holland 35 miles each way on regular basis, Top rail and ramp fabbed with 2" sq. tubing instead of angle iron. Worked well for almost 20 years. Do use jack stand at rear of trailer when unloading or tractor will pick up rear axle of trailer
Fallon
Super Member
I had a 32' bumper pull toy hauler. Weight distribution hitch, many passes over a Cat scale, fiddling with weights, etc. it was always a white knuckle affair over 65. Sold it & got a 35' 5th wheel toy hauler (actually had a gooseneck hitch on it). Steaming across Wyoming at 70 with gusting 50mph crosswinds was a bit annoying. Far better than the best trip with the bumper pull at 65 under ideal conditions.
That's one case study though.
Goosenecks cut corners when turning, so you need to go way wide. They are also heavier, so depending on your limits the extra 500+ lbs may be a problem. They also put more weight on the truck. But that weight really only impacts the rear axle. On a bumper pull hitch weight unloads the front truck axle & puts it on the rear. On my 5th wheel/gooseneck, 2,500lbs of pin weight adds 2,440lbs to the rear & 60lbs to the front.
With my old bumper pull 1,500lbs of tongue weight unloaded the front something like 1,000lbs. With the weight distribution hitch on it still unloaded the front 3-400lbs if I recall. So 1,500lbs of tongue weight could add upwards of 2,500 lbs to the rear axle.
I'm about to put a flatbed on my truck because the bottom of the trailer has touched the bed side on some rough roads or camp sites. I knew it was close, so just inching a long. Backed out & took a different route or stacked boards under tires. Have yet to even scratch anything, but gonna get a flatbed to eliminate the bed sides as a limit. You have more range of motion with a gooseneck, but some additional potential issues.
That's one case study though.
Goosenecks cut corners when turning, so you need to go way wide. They are also heavier, so depending on your limits the extra 500+ lbs may be a problem. They also put more weight on the truck. But that weight really only impacts the rear axle. On a bumper pull hitch weight unloads the front truck axle & puts it on the rear. On my 5th wheel/gooseneck, 2,500lbs of pin weight adds 2,440lbs to the rear & 60lbs to the front.
With my old bumper pull 1,500lbs of tongue weight unloaded the front something like 1,000lbs. With the weight distribution hitch on it still unloaded the front 3-400lbs if I recall. So 1,500lbs of tongue weight could add upwards of 2,500 lbs to the rear axle.
I'm about to put a flatbed on my truck because the bottom of the trailer has touched the bed side on some rough roads or camp sites. I knew it was close, so just inching a long. Backed out & took a different route or stacked boards under tires. Have yet to even scratch anything, but gonna get a flatbed to eliminate the bed sides as a limit. You have more range of motion with a gooseneck, but some additional potential issues.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
I do think that recommending a 5th wheel to a guy looking to transport a sub compact is kinda bad advice.
Fallon
Super Member
Wasn't completely my intent. They do have their downsides. In the situation above the extra weight of the gooseneck & the fact they have more pin weight may or may not push him over payload or rear axle capacities of his truck. You have to do the math & get weights off scales. The math isn't that hard once you do it a few times, but getting the weights without the trailer or load & not having experience to estimate them can be.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
With any twin axle trailer, getting things leveled well, with hitch height, whole loaded to normal operating wright helps. Lot of tow vehicles now need a drop hitch.
What is our OP using as a tow vehicle? You don't want to be pulling a 4000# trailer when you pick up 500# worth of stuff. At the same time, you don't want the lightest trailer made. I'm guessing max weight on his scut is 4,000#, with impliments, loaders, weights, fuel, ect? I think a 7000# capacity trailer is a good fit. Car hauler type would be good cause you have pretty good tie down options for a flat deck, and you generally also have a front "stop" between the deck and tongue.
Pallets can be loaded forward of the axles, if lighter, like feed, but when we get to shingles, quikcrete, ect, at like 3600# we are punishing the truck.
What is our OP using as a tow vehicle? You don't want to be pulling a 4000# trailer when you pick up 500# worth of stuff. At the same time, you don't want the lightest trailer made. I'm guessing max weight on his scut is 4,000#, with impliments, loaders, weights, fuel, ect? I think a 7000# capacity trailer is a good fit. Car hauler type would be good cause you have pretty good tie down options for a flat deck, and you generally also have a front "stop" between the deck and tongue.
Pallets can be loaded forward of the axles, if lighter, like feed, but when we get to shingles, quikcrete, ect, at like 3600# we are punishing the truck.
paulsharvey
Elite Member
Wow, autocorrect seems to want to change Weight to Wright; Tow to Town, and mine has always wanted to turn For into Foe...
thank you so much for your suggestion