F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#141  
Well, I was able to grab the NOS units for $20 each. Not too bad! I am still going to explore the overseas units just for the sake of giving it a try.
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #142  
How many are in your pump?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#143  
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#144  
NOS Piston cups showed up, look pretty good. They are pretty stiff. I am wondering a couple things. 1) Is this the way they come? Seven Gables has noted that they are tough to get in, I assume this maybe what I am going to encounter. 2) What is a good lubricant that can be used to assist and install these units? I have Murphy's tire mounting lube, Lubri-plate assembly lube, brake caliper grease, wheel bearing grease, lots of motor oils, graphite powder and spray and half a dozen different liquid soaps. I am leaning towards using tire lube to prevent any issues with unintentional degradation to the rubber cups.
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #145  
NOS Piston cups showed up, look pretty good. They are pretty stiff. I am wondering a couple things. 1) Is this the way they come? Seven Gables has noted that they are tough to get in, I assume this maybe what I am going to encounter. 2) What is a good lubricant that can be used to assist and install these units? I have Murphy's tire mounting lube, Lubri-plate assembly lube, brake caliper grease, wheel bearing grease, lots of motor oils, graphite powder and spray and half a dozen different liquid soaps. I am leaning towards using tire lube to prevent any issues with unintentional degradation to the rubber cups.
Yeah stiff is how I remember them . I think you’re tire lube would probably work good. Best I can remember I just used whatever grease I had on hand, thin layer on both on the cups and cylinders. Pretty sure you’re going to want to soften them in some boiling water also.
One other thing, I always replaced the gaskets at each end of the ceramic cylinders whenever I replaced piston cups. This was on a John Bean pump, I assume the Myers would have similar.
Be nice if you’d post a picture of the NOS cups along side the cheap imports.
Also do the nos cups measure 2 3/16” OD like they claimed?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#146  
They are pretty darn stiff. Not sure if that is from age or that is how they are.
 

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/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#147  
Asian units have yet to arrive, I anticipate a month or so.
 

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/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#148  
A couple more questions to men with experience.

1) I really like the idea of using brass bodied diaphragm check valves. There isn't a lot of information that I can find on buying them or rebuilding old units. I found this eBay listing where they are offering TeeJet 975B brass body parts. I don't know if any of these parts make a single complete unit because I am unable to find any photos of a complete unit nor can I find a resource for rebuild parts. I can live with my inline strainer check valves for a season, but going forward, I would like to upgrade. I have PLASTIC diaphragm check valves on my FMC, but I don't want to take them off of that unit just in case I need it. Any thoughts?


2) Anyone have any brass bodied diaphragm check valves for sale?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#149  
Bump
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #150  
A couple more questions to men with experience.

1) I really like the idea of using brass bodied diaphragm check valves. There isn't a lot of information that I can find on buying them or rebuilding old units. I found this eBay listing where they are offering TeeJet 975B brass body parts. I don't know if any of these parts make a single complete unit because I am unable to find any photos of a complete unit nor can I find a resource for rebuild parts. I can live with my inline strainer check valves for a season, but going forward, I would like to upgrade. I have PLASTIC diaphragm check valves on my FMC, but I don't want to take them off of that unit just in case I need it. Any thoughts?


2) Anyone have any brass bodied diaphragm check valves for sale?
Looks to me like those check valves parts are everything except the main body and the diaphragms.
Go to TeeJet website, they have pictures of the check valves that those parts go to. TeeJet also sells the little strainers that insert before each nozzle that have ball and spring checks built in.
What inline strainers do you have that have check valves? Pictures?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#151  
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #153  
Something along these lines?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#154  
Something along these lines?
Those are really close, I am just NOT ready to drop $30 a piece for 18 of them.......I also like bringing back some old things back from the dead. (As you guys already know). A question I do have is the replacement diaphragm. I see them in a variety of lbs. Is the lbs the PSI that the check valve closes? So if the replacement diaphragm says 10 pounds, that means it closes at 10 psi?
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #155  
I used lots of T-jet products and yes, it closes at 10 PSI. Cutting off at 10 PSI cuts off the dripple that would happen if there wasn't a check valve and the pressure slowly drops to zero. It also, gets up to pressure faster since there is a residual 10 psi in the line.
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#156  
Update: Weather in the area was in the upper 40's last night so I was able to install the new piston cups and assembly. Someone on here, I believe Seven Gables, mentioned boiling them to soften them up. Worked great. I used my old Coleman camping stove, an old pot and dropped them in. They 'boiled' for about 5 minutes and I put them into well lubricated sleeves coated with Murphy's Tire Lube. They went right in.

The new Asian made units have arrived and they are much larger. Probably about an 1/8" larger. They MIGHT fit if I put them in, but they will probably require more HP to get them to spin. Worst case and in a pinch, I could turn them down on a lathe.
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information
  • Thread Starter
#157  
Update: I was able to use the sprayer for my first oil dormancy spray this past weekend. Worked great. It took a little doing to get the nozzle rate dialed in. I had the best luck with TeeJet orifice discs D3 at waist height, D2 higher up. I had to take the Cone Jet nozzles out due to using a 100 nozzle strainers and them getting plugged up in short order. A 25 mesh and the disc orifice was better. There is a bronze 4x6 pre-pump filter, holes are about 1/16” in diameter. That lets a lot of fines through the system. I would like to add a 150 micron sock around the bronze mesh. Is that a “no-no”? I have a feeling that it will clear up over time, but I would like to catch it before it runs through the pump and the nozzles.
 
/ F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information #158  
Update: I was able to use the sprayer for my first oil dormancy spray this past weekend. Worked great. It took a little doing to get the nozzle rate dialed in. I had the best luck with TeeJet orifice discs D3 at waist height, D2 higher up. I had to take the Cone Jet nozzles out due to using a 100 nozzle strainers and them getting plugged up in short order. A 25 mesh and the disc orifice was better. There is a bronze 4x6 pre-pump filter, holes are about 1/16” in diameter. That lets a lot of fines through the system. I would like to add a 150 micron sock around the bronze mesh. Is that a “no-no”? I have a feeling that it will clear up over time, but I would like to catch it before it runs through the pump and the nozzles.
Pretty typical for the first spray with a older sprayer that’s sat for years to plug filters and nozzles. I think you’re best option is to just keep flushing water through the entire system with the nozzles removed.
 
 

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