How to Remove this Power Steering Hydraulic Hose

[TractorTech]

I goofed. That is a gas tractor isn't it? Probably #36 or 37 running down the right side.

#36 - 539507M1

539507M1 HOSE TUBE LH made to fit AGCO | LTD. WARRANTY | Price: $102.15

539507M1 HOSE TUBE LH. Price: $102.15 Stock: 5 available. Ltd. Warranty: .

gtengineparts.com

#37 - 535991M1

535991M1 HOSE TUBE made to fit AGCO | LTD. WARRANTY | Price: $89.89

535991M1 HOSE TUBE. Price: $89.89 Stock: 3 available. Ltd. Warranty: .

gtengineparts.com

 

[bungerag]

I goofed. That is a gas tractor isn't it? Probably #36 or 37 running down the right side.

#36 - 539507M1

539507M1 HOSE TUBE LH made to fit AGCO | LTD. WARRANTY | Price: $102.15

539507M1 HOSE TUBE LH. Price: $102.15 Stock: 5 available. Ltd. Warranty: .

gtengineparts.com

#37 - 535991M1

535991M1 HOSE TUBE made to fit AGCO | LTD. WARRANTY | Price: $89.89

535991M1 HOSE TUBE. Price: $89.89 Stock: 3 available. Ltd. Warranty: .

gtengineparts.com

No it's the Perkins diesel. Your first graphic was correct and very helpful -- it is a bigger job than I'd hoped. Looks like I'm finally going to need the crow's foot wrenches.

 

[bungerag]

@TractorTech Does that manual happen to list the size of the flange connectors that can be unscrewed in order for me to take that whole straight piece of the line off?

 

[TractorTech]

Not sure what you are asking, but the union is: JIC 9/16-18 thread Male X JIC 9/16-18 thread Male, so the connector is going to be JIC 9/16-18 Female. And yes, it is the same fitting on both ends; female.

I thought it was a gas unit as the diesel shows a solid steel line, without the rubber line in the middle. Nevertheless, the ends are the same.

 

[oldnslo]

I would suspect the hex on those fittings is 11/16 or 3/4. Might be 5/8 on mating union.

 

[Sportsman762]

Ford likes to do this with steering lines as well. The solution is to cut out the bad section of the hose and replace it. You do not need to take it to a hydraulics shop as it is easy to do and does not normally require removing the entire line.
-First clean the paint off of a section of the line and measure the OD.
-Then order a flareless tube fitting. I like Swagelok and Parker. Below is a snip from the Parker Farulok catalog. End 1 is the tube OD, End 2 is NPT end. I am partial to NPT as the hoses can be purchased at most local farm stores.

-Take the flareless tube fittings and hand tighten them on the hose. Mark the tube were it needs cut.
- Cut the tube using a tubing cutter to assure smooth square ends, deburr the inside.
-Clean all paint off of the cut ends back 2" and make sure they are smooth and not scuffed or damaged on the exterior.
-Put the flareless tube adapters on the hose and tighten them by hand as much as you can, then tighten the nut 3/4 turn.
-install hose. *If the fitting does not have a swivel end then you might have to put the fittings on the hose and then install as an assembly.

Its easy and cost effective giving you a better quality repairable solution that replicates the OEM lines. The cost is not too bad either.

I have done this on half a dozen lines and have had good success (except the first time I turned the nut on the flareless fitting 5 or so turns and cut the tube) The best part is that most of the time you don't have to remove the entire line.

 

[bungerag]

Ford likes to do this with steering lines as well. The solution is to cut out the bad section of the hose and replace it. You do not need to take it to a hydraulics shop as it is easy to do and does not normally require removing the entire line.
-First clean the paint off of a section of the line and measure the OD.
-Then order a flareless tube fitting. I like Swagelok and Parker. Below is a snip from the Parker Farulok catalog. End 1 is the tube OD, End 2 is NPT end. I am partial to NPT as the hoses can be purchased at most local farm stores.
View attachment 2996088
-Take the flareless tube fittings and hand tighten them on the hose. Mark the tube were it needs cut.
- Cut the tube using a tubing cutter to assure smooth square ends, deburr the inside.
-Clean all paint off of the cut ends back 2" and make sure they are smooth and not scuffed or damaged on the exterior.
-Put the flareless tube adapters on the hose and tighten them by hand as much as you can, then tighten the nut 3/4 turn.
-install hose. *If the fitting does not have a swivel end then you might have to put the fittings on the hose and then install as an assembly.

Its easy and cost effective giving you a better quality repairable solution that replicates the OEM lines. The cost is not too bad either.

I have done this on half a dozen lines and have had good success (except the first time I turned the nut on the flareless fitting 5 or so turns and cut the tube) The best part is that most of the time you don't have to remove the entire line.

This would be helpful except for the fact that there's no clearance available to do any cutting. No matter what I do, a majority of the steel line is going to have to come off. In which case, I'd likely do just as well having the hydraulic shop swap the soft hose for the price of the fittings and tools I'd need to do it this way. They'd probably be faster than me as well.

While the end that connects to the steering pump is easy to access, the other end looks like it's going to require me to take either the panel off, or the diesel tank off. Was trying to avoid all of that for just this one hose section. Perhaps I'm better off doing the Swagelok method so that it's at least easier to repair in the future....

 

[Sportsman762]

This would be helpful except for the fact that there's no clearance available to do any cutting.

If there is no clearance then it does make it darned hard to cut without removing the line. If I remember I will look at my MF 20C diesel which is identical forward of the rear axle and see where the lines are. I suspect I will have to replace them someday too.

I'd likely do just as well having the hydraulic shop swap the soft hose for the price of the fittings and tools

Many hydraulic shops do not stock crimp on hose to tube fittings, meaning they would have to order them in for extra $$. They would have to be a darned well stocked shop. Also unless your good friends with the owner or have a well established relationship with the shop, sit down before they tell you the cost of what appears to be a simple hose replacement. Also some shops will only crimp on new tubing, as they do not want the liability of a failure. Sorry to sound pessimistic, but this is my experience.

The only tool you should need to install the flareless fittings are a displacement style pipe cutter, and two wrenches.
A 1/2" tube, 1/2" hose is $15.50 each.

https://www.zoro.com/parker-connector-zinc-pltd-steel-compxf-12in-8-8-gbu-s/i/G2442937/

 

[dicktill]

If there is no clearance then it does make it darned hard to cut without removing the line. If I remember I will look at my MF 20C diesel which is identical forward of the rear axle and see where the lines are. I suspect I will have to replace them someday too.


Many hydraulic shops do not stock crimp on hose to tube fittings, meaning they would have to order them in for extra $$. They would have to be a darned well stocked shop. Also unless your good friends with the owner or have a well established relationship with the shop, sit down before they tell you the cost of what appears to be a simple hose replacement. Also some shops will only crimp on new tubing, as they do not want the liability of a failure. Sorry to sound pessimistic, but this is my experience.

The only tool you should need to install the flareless fittings are a displacement style pipe cutter, and two wrenches.
A 1/2" tube, 1/2" hose is $15.50 each.

https://www.zoro.com/parker-connector-zinc-pltd-steel-compxf-12in-8-8-gbu-s/i/G2442937/

If what @Sportsman762 says is true, perhaps you can replace the entire run with a flex hose. If so, protect it with some sort of wrapping and cable tie it (often) to the adjacent tubes.

Good luck, Dick

 

[Sportsman762]

If what @Sportsman762 says is true, perhaps you can replace the entire run with a flex hose. If so, protect it with some sort of wrapping and cable tie it (often) to the adjacent tubes.

Good luck, Dick

It is really tight around the orbital motor so hoses are most likely not viable. I know that anything under the dash on the 20C/30B is a pain to work on as MF welded the whole front console of the tractor up solid so its impossible to access anything. The previous owner on mine cut an access hatch in it. You can see in this the cover I made for it. It helps a lot, but access still sucks.